• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.118-119
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• 2005

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.81-83
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• 2005

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.59-66
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.49-61
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• 2007

The subject of study concerns the color characteristics of clothing/accessories from �Chosun�a nd modern Korea. It particularly focuses on the colors of the �Jeogori? traditional jacket) which represents Korean traditional clothing. Color data were collected from 353 woman�s �Jegori�s from �Chosun�a nd modern Korea and divided into the predominant colors & sub colors, and analyzed with HV/C and PCCS. According to the analysis, the representative the predominant color of 'Chosun Jeogori' for woman is YR, Y and side one is R, YR. The p, dp, sf, ltg colors are frequently found and the freshness of most of them is medium or low which shows a calm-feeling. The p, and ltg tones are often found as a the predominant color and p, dp are also often found as a the side color. In the 'Chosun Jeogori' for woman, the predominant colors and the side colors spread in a similar frequency and most of them have medium or low freshness of the color that shows a calm-feeling. The side color is one of the R colors and it shows characteristics of traditional coloring such as �Jajoo Goreum? Among the �Jeogori�f or modern women, the R, YR, Y, and B colors are often used for the single-color �Jeogori? the Y, GY, N, G colors are for the colorful �Jeogori? The P, lt, and b tons of the color are often used for a single-color �Jeogori�a nd the p, lt, and W are for the colorful �Jeogori? For the colorful �Jeogori? the side color have a high freshness which shows that a strong image was used frequently as the dp, s, dk tons of the color were often used. According to an analysis of the coloring, the predominant color and the side color of �Chosun Jeogori�a re applied to create a harmony of analogy & contrast in one aspect of Moon & Spencer�s view. It is found that the predominant color and the side color are similar or contrasting in one view of the color harmony, except that the traditional the �Jeogori�i s colored by ideological and symbolic meanings. The predominant color and the side color of modern the �Jeogori�a re complementary colors which are applied to the indistinct relationship or contrasting harmony in one aspect of Moon & Spencer�s view of the color harmony. The characteristics of the color as above show that traditional the �Jeogori�r egards the side color as both the harmony of the colors in general and also of symbolic meaning, while modern the �Jeogori�f or woman has a tendency toward a cultural transition and is mixed with new colors focusing more on its the predominant color than on the general harmony and character of ideological & traditional coloring.