• Title/Summary/Keyword: 엠파이어 스타일

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A Study on the Structural Characteristics of Spencer Jacket in Empire Style$(1789{\sim}1820)$ (엠파이어 스타일 시대$(1789{\sim}1820)$ 스펜서 재킷의 구성적 특징에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Mi-Kyung;Jo, Jin-Sook;Choi, Jin-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.142-152
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

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A Study on Draping and Making up of Spencer Jacket in the Empire Style(1789-1820) (엠파이어 스타일 시대[1789-1820] 스펜서 재킷 제작에 관한 연구)

  • Choi Mi-Kyung;Jo Jin-Sook;Choi Jin-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.4 s.103
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    • pp.48-64
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

A Study on Corset Patterns of the 19th Century (19세기 Corset pattern 연구)

  • Park, Sang-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.7
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    • pp.31-42
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    • 2008
  • The fashion of the 19C had been through many diverse styles, i.e. Empire style, Romantic style, Crinoline style and the Bustle style. These styles had emphasized a certain figures, such as exaggerated hourglass silhouette of crinoline style or S silhouette of bustle style. Following the trends, corsets became more than underwears. Actually they supported the fashion of the 19C. Apparently, the corsets had been evolved in many aspects. Patterns, materials and trimmings were developed and refined to make torso figures desirable. The initial purpose of the research is to find out how they developed corset patterns to make such a diverse figures, so that the techniques can be adopted in contemporary pattern design. The 16 corsets and their patterns were quoted from books related the subject. The patterns were redrawn of same scale for the comparative study concerning cutting lines and measurements. Coming to the late, more curved lines and more segmented cutting were used to make body more of glamour and natural. Gussets were another key technique to make them work. Various sized and shaped gussets were used to follow the trends of ever changing.

The Characteristics of German Romanticism Clothing Style Represented in Caspar David Friedrich's Paintings (카스파 다비드 프리드리히 회화에 나타난 독일낭만주의 복식의 특성)

  • Yang, Lee-Na;Park, Sun-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.13-29
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    • 2012
  • Art works reflect the spirit and aesthetic information of the times. More specially clothing shown in paintings indicates the phases of the times and contains the aesthetic values of the era. The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of German Romantic Era on male and female clothing style represented in Caspar David Friedrich's paintings. The study aims to highlight the following: First, German romanticism ironically gives conceptual importance but high value to freedom of inner self and imaginative sensitivity of human beings. Second, the paintings of Friedrich show the consistency with nature through human beings' inner self and transcendency ultimately expressing religious ideals paradoxically. Third, the characteristics of male and female clothing style shown in Friedrich's paintings are considered religious, contemplative, paradoxical, transcendental, conceptual, political, grass-roots oriented, and female liberating. Female clothing reflects simple empire-style, while male clothing shows romantic style of people's leaders, reflecting the political features in those days.

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A Study on Fashion Design Incorporating Korean-Style Motifs - Focusing on the Comparative Analysis of the Shape of Hanbok (Korean traditional clothes) Skirts and Skirt Silhouette - (한국적인 모티프를 응용한 스커트 디자인 연구 - 한복 치마의 형태와 스커트의 실루엣의 비교분석을 중심으로 -)

  • Kang, Gyeong-Rim;Kim, Jeong-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.6
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    • pp.140-149
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    • 2013
  • The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.