• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.108-120
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• 2023

Recently, interest in eco-friendliness and sustainability has been increasing due to the rapid progress of fast fashion and the crisis of sudden environmental changes after COVID-19. This study aims to develop upcycling textiles and express product design using digital 3D to realize a sustainable fashion industry and present environmental aspects, diversity, creativity, and new directions in fashion industry design. The research method is to develop and pattern upcycling textile designs by applying weaving techniques with waste materials. It uses the developed upcycling textile design in digital 3D to incorporate it into clothing fashion and shows the utility and practicality of upcycling textile design. As a result of the study, the appearance is realistic when outputting DTP of upcycling textile design. It endures without loosening or tearing, making it a durable and creatively expressive fashion item. Texpro 3D mapping reduces the time and cost of making actual sample fabric. Upcycling textile design and 3D CLO virtual clothing are combined to produce actual clothing samples, resulting in zero waste reduction due to cutting and sewing. This study anticipates actively and continuously advancing the development of upcycling textile design and digital 3D in terms of ethics and the environment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.199-212
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• 2015

Environmentally-friendly whole-cut designs can minimize carbon dioxide emissions which are harmful to the earth, and reduce energy, labor force and time in cutting or sewing clothes. The design and way of wearing clothing will be investigated by classifying whole-cut clothing appearing in the history of costume and past traditional outfits such as Drapery, a Pancho, Tunic, or Loincloth. According to the results from the analysis of whole-cut methods applied in design, they were classified as follows: whole-cut, utilizing square-panels as is, pleats, smoking, lip band, origami, cutting way, and subtraction-cutting whole-cut design. The whole-cut design utilizing square panel as it is can minimize the waste of energy and material but can also maximize the possibility of circulation by recycling. In utilizing an all square panel, it broke away from the existing whole-cut in the western pattern, namely, the pattern of clothes clinging to the body, and was found to have new aesthetic value with a new approach. Due to the whole-cut method having a restriction in the use of dart and line cutting in its designing process, there were only designs that did not show the body line, such as designs clinging to the body. Therefore we developed a design similar to those that cling to the body by whole-cut, In addition, the work produced was with high efficiency and variability, which produces simple designs but can be worn in a variety of ways.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.73-85
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to conduct more practical subsequent research by identifying research areas through a systematic analysis of sustainable fashion design research trends. For this study, 117 journals domestic journals published between 2010 and 2020 were selected using the keyword, 'sustainable fashion'. With the research materials, six top keywords, 'zero waste', 'sustainability', 'eco-friendly', 'upcycling', 'recycling', and 'ethical', were derived. The research status was examined by year, keyword, keyword and year, and research topic. The analysis results are as follows. First, looking into the studies by year, it was found that research on sustainable fashion increased in general. Compared to 2010, the research tripled in 2020, and it was found to have increased steadily from 2018. Second, regarding the research by keyword, eco-friendly was the most common. It can be seen that research tended to focus on recycling or eco-friendliness before, but in later material design development was heading towards upcycling. Third, concerning the research by topic, case studies were found the most before, but research on design development tended to increase recently. Based on that, it is expected that the areas of sustainable fashion design that need more research will be investigated further.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.219-238
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• 2014

This study attempted to investigate present condition and product planning of global eco-fashion brands that harmonize fashion and sustainability. As research subjects, this study selected 97 oversea fashion brands mentioned in books related to eco-fashion, Black(2011), Brown(2010), Fuad-luke(2009). As for research methods, materials and ethical practices of these selected 97 brands through literature data and their internet site homepages. This study analyzed oversea eco-brands collected 26 British brands, 22 American brands, 36 European brands such as Germany, France, Italy, Sweden, Spain, Finland and so on, except Britain and 13 other regions including Japan, India, Canada, Mexico, and New zealand. In conclusion, the product planning characteristics of these oversea eco-fashion brands can be summarized as follows; community and fair trade, ecological and slow design, recycle, reuse, redesign, and new eco-models. Firstly, brands of 'community and fair trade' manufactured products through fair trade and local community's artisan by ethical practices with organic fabrics. Secondly, brands of 'ecological and slow design' pursued timeless design and multi-functional design as luxury eco-fashion styles. They used organic textiles, hemp, bamboo, soya, tencell, sea cell, and self-sustaining plants. Thirdly, brands of 'recycle, reuse, redesign' aimed for upcycling high-end fashion and used vintage clothes, textile scraps, PET, parachutes, tires, safety belts, advertising banner and so on. In addition, brands of 'new models as eco-fashion' suggested zero-waste cutting, recycling over-printing technology, new sustainable business model, and ethical practices in the supply chain of the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.27-44
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.120-139
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• 2024

Considering the need for a clothing product design strategy for the sustainable growth of outdoor brands, this study analyzed an outdoor consumer survey applying selected sustainable elements, reflected the results in design planning, suggested prototypes, and presented a design strategy. The consumer survey was conducted from July 19 to July 25, 2022, and 216 respondents were used for analysis. As a result of the outdoor consumer survey analysis of selected sustainable elements, the most preferred outdoor design concept involved the keywords 'zero waste' and 'transformable design' from a sustainable economic perspective. An outer jacket design was then created focusing on these two keywords and a prototype was produced. The SCD (sustainability, consumer, designer) design strategy was presented as a strategy for sustainable growth of outdoor brands, and the key factors of this strategy are as follows: (a) application of sustainable design elements, (b) reflection of consumer opinions on sustainability, (c) designers' sustainable mindset and decisions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.35-52
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• 2016

Yeohlee Teng's 'Urban Nomad' concept stresses high mobility and flexibility in 'Clothing-as-shelter' in order to satisfy the needs of urban dwellers. Yeohlee interprets clothing as a portable environment that protects and shelters urban nomads as well as creates space of clothing as intimate architecture. This study examines Nomadism in Yeohlee's designs since 1981 when she received the attention from the fashion critics, by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Nomadism in Yeohlee's work showed the following characterizes. First, 'modular system' deals with the organized dressing system that enables interchanging and layering of separates that function in the fifth season; second, 'organic geometry' describes the architectonic approach to clothing as wearable structure that transforms two dimensional geometry into three dimensional form; third, 'functionalism' refers to the use of technological novel materials, ergonomic clothing construction, and the strategy of using structure as decoration; and fourth, 'reductionism' is the economical approach for realizing Nomadism, which is composed of one-size-fits-all as well as unisex size system and 'zero waste' strategy to maximize use of a piece of cloth.