• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2008년도 추계학술대회
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• pp.143-146
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• 2008

The objectives of this study were to evaluate color sensation for yellowish natural dye fabrics using magnitude estimation to determine physical colorimetric factors significantly related to human sensibility by establishing power function in psychophysical analysis. Fourteen different yellowish fabrics dyed with natural colorants were selected as stimuli and subjective color sensations including brightness, heaviness, softness, strength, warmth, activeness, classicalness, femininity, and pleasantness for each stimulus were evaluated. As results, yellowish natural dye fabrics in general seemed to evoke feeling of brightness, femininity, and pleasantness more strongly than that of heaviness and classicalness. Most of color sensation were significantly related with more than one of physical color properties, which leads to establishing reliable power functions between them. In the power functions, these relationships could be utilized to design color-sensible natural dye textiles.

• 감성과학
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.109-120
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• 2009

본 연구는 천연염색 직물의 색채로 가장 일반적으로 사용되는 황색과 적색 계열의 색채를 대상으로 색채감성요인의 예측모델을 제시함으로써 색채감성에 영향을 미치는 색채감각과 물리적 색채특성을 규명하고자 하였다. 동일한 견직물에 염색한 서로 다른 320종의 천연염색 색채를 군집 분석하여 선정한 각 4종씩의 황색계열과 적색계열의 색채에 대하여 40대 남녀 30명을 대상으로 의미미분법에 의하여 색채감각 및 감성을 평가하였다. 색채감성용어에 대한 요인분석 결과 3개 요인이 도출되었는데, 요인<활동성>에는 $L^*,\;b^*$, '맑다', '밝다'의 감각과 정적상관을 보여서, 명도가 높고 노랑기가 많은 황색계열 천연염색 직물들이 높은 평가를 받았다. 요인<독특성>은 $a^*$와 '따뜻하다'와 정적 상관을 나타내어서, 적색계열 천연염색 직물들에서 더 강하게 느껴지는 경향을 보였다. 요인<편안성>은 색채감각 '강하다'와 부적 상관을 보였는데, 황색과 적색에 따른 차이가 나타나지 않았다. 각 색채감성요인을 정량화하기 위해 단계적 회귀분석을 통해 수립한 예측모델에서 요인<활동성>은 색채특성 $L^*$ 값이 클수록 더 강하게 인지되어서 무매염 황벽 염색 직물의 색채의 <활동성> 요인점수가 가장 높았으며, 요인<독특성>은 색채특성 $a^*$와 색채감각 '가볍다'가 설명변인으로 진입하여서 $a^*$값이 가장 높은 무매염 홍화300% 염색직물이 <독특성> 감성이 가장 강하게 인지되었다. 또한 요인<편안성>은 색채감각 '강하다'가 부적 설명 변인으로 나타났으며, '강하다'의 점수가 가장 낮은 커피100% 알루미늄 2%매염직물 등의 <편안성> 요인점수가 높게 나타났다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.69-75
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• 2011

A pre-treatment process has been developed for natural dyeing of wool by which the dyed materials have been imparted antimicrobial efficacy against both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria durable up to 20 washes. In this process, wool fabrics were treated with citric acid under oxidizing condition prior to dyeing. The treated fabrics were then dyed with four different types of natural dye powders obtained from leaves of silver oak, wattle, tanner's senna and flame of forest. All the natural dyes produced yellowish brown colour on wool fabrics. The washing and light fastness properties of the fabrics subjected to pre-treatment were one grade higher compared to those of the dyed fabrics without pre-treatment. The pre-treated wool fabrics showed antimicrobial efficacy against both gram-positive bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus) and gram-negative bacteria (Escherichia coli). The fabrics dyed without pre-treatment showed antimicrobial efficacy against gram-positive bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus) only. The durability of antimicrobial efficacy was higher in pre-treated and dyed wool fabrics compared to the dyed fabrics without pre-treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.179-186
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• 2011

For the application of Jeju scoria scattered around the island as a natural dye, cotton fabrics were dyed with the dye and their properties were measured including dyeability, colorfastness, antibacterial activity, deodorization efficiency, ultraviolet protection, and far-infrared emission. The dyed cotton fabrics were in yellowish red and optimal dyeing conditions were obtained with a colorant concentration of 25%(o.w.b) at a temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ for the dyeing time of 120 minutes. The ratings of colorfastness to light, rubbing, perspiration, and washing were 8, 5, 5, and 4~5 respectively. After 15 wash cycles, colorfastness remained as much as 4~5 rating. The cotton fabric dyed with Jeju scoria demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity and deodorization efficiency of 99.9% and 93.9% respectively. Ultraviolet protection factor was 50+. Far-infrared emission rate and far-infrared emission intensity were 90% and 362(W/$m^2{\cdot}{\mu}m$) respectively. The Jeju scoria can be introduced as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of cotton.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.381-388
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.804-816
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• 2009

This study was aimed to analyze color characteristics of silk fabrics dyed with a variety of commercial natural dyes focusing on hue/tone system. Using eleven different natural dyes, single and sequential dyeing were performed under a variety of conditions of dye bath concentration, mordanting, and dyeing sequences. Color characteristics of dyed silk fabrics were investigated by Munsell's color notation of H V/C and PCCS (Practical Color Coordination System) tones. As results, most of yellowish natural dyes as principal shades in natural dyeing showed Y or YR for hue families while d, ltg, and g for tone, which agrees with colors frequently used in comtemporary apparel industries. As for single dyeing, some hues like R, RP, G, GY, and BG were found to have their own tones owing to the used natural dyes. For varying hues in natural dyeing, sequential dyeing is useful in that GY, G, and BG rarely appeared in single dyeing were frequently shown in sequential dyeing by combination of some dyes. In the other hands, mordanting may be employed for tone variation in that aluminum seemed to contribute to light and dull tones, copper to dull, and ferrum to garyish and dark ones. These results can be helpful to design colors for fashion fields by natural dyeing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.361-370
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• 2014

The fabric, 100% Silk, was dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract solution. The effects of concentration of extracts (colorant), temperature of dyeing, time of dyeing and pH of dye bath were studied. As the concentration of extracts increased, color strength (K/S value) increased progressively. The K/S values increased with raising temperature, time and proper conditions were $80^{\circ}C$ and 80 minutes. Maximum K/S value was obtained at pH 3. The K/S values of mordanted fabrics were increased with increasing mordant concentration up to specific values. Surface color of dyed and mordanted fabrics were yellowish. Light color fastness of fabric with mordanting was fairly good 3/4 rating. The mordanted silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. The silk fabric dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract showed a superior UV protective property.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2010

This study was carried out to identify the optimum dyeing conditions for maximum dye uptake of Prunus yedoensis Matsumura flower extract on silk fabric and to investigate hue/tone characteristics and fastness properties of the dyed fabrics. As results, the flower extract was found to contain flavonoids by FT-IR and to show yellowish shade by UV-vis spectrum. Silk fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake to five repetitions of dyeing at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with an extract concentration of 600% owf in terms of both K/S and color differences. Pre-mordanting was more effective to dye uptake than post-mordanting for all of the mordants used. Un-mordanted and pre-mordanted fabric showed YR(Yellow Red) while most of post-mordanted ones did Y(Yellow). Main tones of dyed fabrics were sf(soft) and lt(light) in the case of unmordanting or Al-mordanting whereas they were d(dull) and g(grayish) by post-mordanting with Cu, Cr, and Fe, respectively. The fastness grades to rub and dry cleaning were reasonably good for most dyeing conditions while those to light were poor. Finally dyeing condition for each hue/tone of the dyed silk with the flower extract was optimized considering fastness properties.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.