• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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• 한국진공학회 2012년도 제42회 동계 정기 학술대회 초록집
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• pp.200-200
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• 2012

We investigated a flexible transparent film using the spinning multi-walled carbon nanotubes (MWCNTs). Spin-capable MWCNTs on iron catalyzed on a SiO2 wafer was grown by chemical vapor deposition, which was performed at $780^{\circ}C$ using C2H2 and H2 gas. The average diameter and length of MWCNTs grown on the substrate were ~15 nm and $250{\sim}300{\mu}m$, respectively. The MWCNT sheets were produced by continuously pulling out from well-aligned MWCNTs on a substrate. The MWCNT sheet films were produced simply by direct coating on the flexible film or grass. The thickness of sheet film was remarkably decreased by alcohol spraying on the surface of sheet. The alcohol splay increased transmittance and decreased electrical resistance of MWCNT sheet films. Single and double sheets were produced with sheet resistance of ~699 and ${\sim}349{\Omega}/sq$, respectively, transmittance of 81~85 % and 67~72%, respectively. The MWCNT sheet films were heated through the application of direct current power. The flexible transparent heaters showed a rapid thermal response and uniform distribution of temperature. In addition, MWCNT yarns were prepared by spinning a bundle of MWCNTs from vertically super-aligned MWCNTs on a substrate, and field emission from the tip and side of the yarns was induced in a scanning electron microscope. We found that the field emission behavior from the tip of the yarn was better than the field emission from the side. The field emission turn-on voltages from the tip and side of MWCNT yarns were 1.6 and $1.7V/{\mu}m$, respectively, after the yarn was subjected to an aging process. Both the configuration of the tip end and the body of the yarn were changed remarkably during the field emission. We also performed the field emission of the sheet films. The sheet films showed the turn on voltage of ${\sim}1.45V/{\mu}m$ during the field emission.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.298-311
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• 2019

In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics of the knitted and woven fabrics for bedding items are investigated in accordance with fabric structural parameters including the fiber type and proportion, the density of the fabric, and the knit/weave structure. The knit stitches and structure of the knit samples made an effect on tensile properties. The bending, shear and compression properties for the knit fabric were mainly affected by fiber contents of the samples. The tensile and bending properties of woven samples were highly correlated with the fabric density, thickness and structure, and those shear and compression properties were affected by the fiber contents and structure. Consequently, the primary hand values of the selected samples we developed were estimated to have good smoothness, fullness and softness, and soft feeling, which is well correlated to the parameters of consumer preference such as softness, warmness, and bulkiness. Also, their total hand values were increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.783-791
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• 1996

The effect of alkali treatment on the changes in characteristics, mechanical properties, and hand of polyester fabrics was studied. Two kinds of fabrics having different yarn deniers were treated varying weight loss. The results were as follows; 1. Changes in constructional characteristics by alkali treatment were: a decrease in weight & thickness of fabric, a decrease in yarn denier, a decrease in apparent density of fabric, an increase in porosity to air, and a change fiber surface. 2. As for the changes in mechanical properties by alkali treatment, findings were : an increase in WT, RT, MIU, LC, and WC, a decrease in LT, B,2HB, G,2HG,2HGS, MMD, SMD, and RC, ana an increase in drape. 3. Changes in hand by alkali treatment were: a decrease in KOSHI and HARE, an increase in FUUURAMI, SHARI, KISHIMI, and SHENAYAUASA, and an increase in T.H.V 4. In the case of the same weight loss, the hand of 40/24 fabric being composed of thinner yarns was better than the hand of 50/24 fabric. 5. When 50/24 fabric was treated to have the same weight with 40/24 fabric, so the yam deniers of two fabrics were the same, the hand of 50/24 fabric having larger weight loss was better than the hand of 40/24 fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.165-178
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• 1999

Knitwears it was only for the innerwear, but which has become more available for sportswear and highly valuable formal-dresses for women's apparel and is set a trend toward high value-added products worldwide. Also the industry connected knitwears is more widely applicative than woven industry and is running on the well founded basement for the small enterprises. This study notes that what problems are caused and which utilities can be expected when we design knitwears by Primavision and Texpia CAD system considered the programs for development of domestic knitwears industry. There are much various benefits for designing knitwears from CAD system as shortening working hours, convenience, accuracy, quality control and productivity. It doesn't depend on designer's technique, sense and experiences, but provides, through building the design accuracy, chance to have a precise communication with buyers to be satisfied with the multiplicity, uniqueness and high-quality resulting from reducing the mistake on the operation. But there are some problems for using CAD design system those are no selections for the form, type and thickness of the yarn. Even though it is knitted by the same gauge, the texture conditions show complete difference if the form and thickness is different with. The gauge control without regarding those ought to be improved and the yarn designing function should be appended like in a tektite design. And the CAD design system can not reflect the variables of operating knitting machine and needle. The CAD design system provides the manufacturers with merits those they can change the colors easily to select which one appeals to the customer and check the effects of producing and modeling on monitor. But, in the each producing progress, there are still problems to reduce the practical steps, so intensive care is required of each part.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.891-900
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• 2001

The purpose of this study were to evaluate the physical properties and dyeability of cellulase and alkali(NaOH, KOH) treated ramie/man-made fiber mixture fabrics. The mixture fabrics were plain weave made by rayon and polyester fiber as warp yarn, and ramie as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength, and water absorbancy were measured for test fabrics. The K/S value of dyed fabrics were calculated using color difference meter. Also colorfastness to washing and sunlight of dyed fabrics were evaluated. The results obtained from this study were as follows: Thickness and weight per unit area of alkali treated two mixture fabrics(rayon/ramie, polyester/ramie) increased compared to those of untreated fabrics, but cellulase treated fabrics did not changed a little. And alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics showed more change than polyester/ramie mixture fabrics on the thickness and weight. Tensile strength and water absorbancy of cellulase treated fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance increased. Crease resistance, tensile strength(warp direction), water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated polyester/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance and tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Tensile strength of KOH treated two mixture fabrics increased compared to that of untreated, but water absorbancy and drape decreased. Total hand of cellulase and alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics was improved compared to untreated. Dyeability of treated mixture fabrics was increased compared to untreated.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.