• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.183-194
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• 2013

In recent years, intense cold spells caused by climate change have encouraged an increasing number of people to wear a variety of padded jackets. In this context, this paper aims to address the production of padded jackets in casual brands and to develop basic patterns for well-fitted padded jackets targeted toward women in their 20s. The study centered on the production of padded jackets from 13 apparel companies. In addition, three sample jackets were created with 3oz. fill in the body and 2oz. fill in the sleeves, and they were subjected to a wearing test to determine their movement functionality. The research findings were as follows. Woven jackets constituted 53.4% of the winter jackets produced by casual brands; padded jackets accounted for 25.3%, leather jackets 12.6%, and other jackets 8.7%. Thus, data showed that padded jackets accounted for a considerable proportion of overall winter jacket production. Based on the wearing test results, the basic measurements of a padded jacket for women in their 20s were as follows: bust girth of B/4+3cm front length and B/4+3.5cm back length; waist girth of W/4+3.1 cm front length and W/4+1.9cm back length; and hip girth of H/4+3.3cm front length and H/4+2.8cm back length. The jacket length was set at 62.8cm, with a 63.8cm sleeve length. This study concluded that providing padded jacket manufacturers with basic pattern designs for a well-fitted jacket is expected to boost the efficiency of pattern design processes and the production of padded jackets.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.414-419
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• 2006

The paper presents information concerning metrological and technical characteristics of KTU-Griff-Tester device, the optimization of its parameters and the cases of its application. It was defined that the behaviour of textile material during its extraction through a rounded hole depends upon its structure. Variations of geometrical shape of woven and knitted specimens can be described by mathematical expressions of shortened epicycloids and Cassini ovals. It is shown that waving process of disc shaped specimen can be predicted on the basis of the law of sine curve. The examples of textiles treatment with different types of commercial softeners are presented, herewith showing the suitability (sensitiveness) of the new device to detect the changes of textile hand. Meantime it is shown that the level of materials anisotropy can be decided on the basis of transformations of specimen's geometrical shape.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.19-24
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• 2005

This paper is to know the possibility of coloration of synthetic fibers with loess. Fabrics woven with polyester, nylon, and acrylic fibers were dyed by a dip-pad operation with a laboratory mangle. Drying, curing at 180$^{\circ}C$ for 10 minutes and washing were followed. Effect of curing after drying were investigated in terms of K/S values and SEM microphotographes. Reddish-yellow(a:75.13, B:15.14, ${\Delta}$E:45.31) colored fabric ascertain possibility of coloration of synthetic fibers with loess. Acrylic fiber shows highest dye uptake of the three kinds of fibers and fastness increases by curing after drying.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.35-46
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• 1991

After adhering theone-sided non-woven adhesive interlining to the polyester/cotton fabrics and making experiments under the various conditions by L27 Orthogonal Array Table, we examined and analyzed the breaking away strength. The rusults are summarized as follows : 1. The best length of the adhering time is 15 secs. 2. As the adehesive interlining for blouse and jacket, B3 is best 3. The pressure for the adhesion is best under the pressure of 6.2Kg. 4. The temperature for the adhesion is best at 140$^{\circ}C$. 5. As for the direction of the adhesion, three directions appear much the same breaking away strength. 6. For the better adhesion power, if the less adhering power, if the less adhering pressure is applied, the adhering time must be extended(15-20 secs), and if much stronger adhering pressure is applied, the time must be shortened(10-15 secs). In general, it is the best way for the adhesion to apply under the pressure of 6.2Kg, for 15 secs long, and at 140$^{\circ}C$ of the adhering temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.257-262
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• 1997

In this thesis considering the problems shown in the usage of interlining of clothes and in the process of sewing the breaking away strength which is meant by adhesion is analysed by experimennt in which Polyamide content is dealed with at the 5 level to raise the adhesive strength by using the one-sided non woven adhesive interlining made in this country as the samples. After examing the optimum in the process of Cotton and polyester fabrics and adhered fabrics practical for blouse and jacket and analysing the breaking away strength the wanted property of matter and the change with the repeated laundry We reach at the following results. 1. The adhesive strength of the two adhered fabrics were strongly appeared in order of cotton>polyester. 2. The order of the breaking away strength by the interlinings of adhesive fabrics was A5> A4> A3> A2> A1. 3. The breaking away strength of the two adhered fabrics was weakened by the repeated laundry and the breaking away phenomena were fewer under the most suitable conditions than the various conditions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.63-68
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• 2008

The hand of the sensitive mixture fabrics was analysed and discussed with measured mechanical properties of two kinds of woven fabrics according to the characteristics of air-jet loom. The 16 mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface were measured using KES-FB system and their differences of the mechanical properties between domestic and foreign looms were analysed with the deviation according to the position of the specimen. And also these mechanical properties according to the domestic and Japan air-jet looms were analysed and discussed with warp and weft insertion tensions during weaving. This research is aiming to make a data base of fabric mechanical properties and, these analysed data are given to weaver as a basic research data related to the effects of loom characteristics to the sensitive mixture fabrics required from weaving fields.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.299-310
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop wool knitted Jacket pattern suited for Middle-aged women's body shape. The usable data of first and second wearing test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics(frequency and one way- ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: 1. It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B were better than the rest of them. 2. It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket B with milano were better than the rest of them. Therefore, it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. 3. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it is necessary that knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance such as a woven jacket.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.367-372
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• 2007

This study surveys the silk sensitivity technology of nylon filament using fluid system. For this purpose, taslan texturing ATY m/c is modified and 4 kinds of nylon filaments with 40d/12f are made using functional chemicals on the modified ATY texturing machine. Using these yarns, 4 kinds of fabrics are woven and processed on the dyeing and finishing. The various physical properties of these fabrics such as water contents, UV-cut, fabric hand are measured and discussed with ATY texturing and functional chemical treatment conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.400-411
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• 1989

Moisture related properties of fabrics in dynamic modes are considered to be important in the judgement of the subjective comfort characteristics of clothing fabrics. In the current study, an attempt to improve the cobaltous chloride test method was made which has been known as a convenient screening test for dynamic surface wetness. The color changes of cobaltous chloride treated fabrics on the simulated sweating skin were calibrated against standard color strips. The standard color strips were made of all typs of test fabrics and installed inside of the test tubes containing a series of saturated salt solutions, which gives more quantitative informations on dynamic moisture transfer Influences of fiber types and finishes on dynamic moisture transfer in textiles were studied using a single layer of fabric samples. Fiber types included $100\%$ cotton, C/P 50/50, C/P 35/65. Durable press and soil release finished cotton and C/P 50/50 fabrics were also included. There were significant fiber effects on the dynamic moisture transfer. The order of time taken to reach to the specified $\%$ RH was C/P 35/65$100\%$ cotton fabrics. It was possible to detect significant finish effects by increasing the concentrations of cobaltous chloride solutions. The order of time taken to reach to the specified $\%$ R.H was durable press$100\%$ cotton, C/P 50/50, C/P 35/65 and $100\%$ PET were placed at the inner side of the outer layer and tested. It was shown that cobaltous chloride treated $100\%$ cotton fabirc was easier to detect color changes than C/P blend fabic in the double layer experiments. By placing test sample under the cobaltous chloride treated cotton fabrics, it was able to detect the differences among the test samples, some of which were known to be difficult in padding with cobaltous chloride solutions. Besides, the double layer method would provide with the broader application of the cobaltous chloride method in !uture, since it is possible to test the dynamic moisture transfer of clothing as worn.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.279-284
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• 2010

This paper surveys basic research for data base system of the fabric structural design. For this purpose, the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics are analysed and discussed with cover factors suggested by Prof. Walz and Picanol company. And the relationship between weave density coefficients and cover factors of the worsted and cotton woven fabrics was analysed and discussed with weave pattern and yarn count. Finally, the process shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes according to the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics were analysed and discussed as a preliminary study for the data base system of the fabric structural design. As a result, the density coefficients, K values of the worsted and cotton fabrics were ranged from 600 to 1000, and the weave density coefficients of those fabrics are ranged from 0.4 to 0.8 and from 0.2 to 1.0, respectively. The finishing shrinkages for the worsted fabrics are ranged from 2% to 10%, and for cotton fabrics, it was from 2% to 20%. The weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics could be distributed according to the looms, weave pattern and weaving and finishing shrinkages as a concept of the data base for the fabric structural design.