• 복식
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• 제28권
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• pp.213-223
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• 1996

Woolen fabrics were manufactured in Korea since the early prehistoric period and were manufactured and used from the period of the three Kingoms and Koryo through the Chosonera. These materials were developed in to woolen fabrics through a tradition of thou-sand years. In Korea the Orient Culture of no-madic tribes and Mesopotamia Culture of stock-farming come together and developed these original woolen fabrics cultures. During the Chosen period woolen goods were frequently manufactured and used. Those re-mains consist of various hats and shoes made up of felt. And the remains which of a kind of woolen fabrics were made from the wool materials. There were various stock farms and supplies a woolen craftsman needed the wool materials. There were various stock farms and supplies a woolen craftsman needed the wool materials. And there were especial woolen goods shops as Choung Po Joun.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.402-410
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• 2021

Woolen tapestry curtains possessed by the Seoul Museum of Craft Art were used to hung on the wall or used for carpets in the winter season in the late Joseon dynasty. Since similar artifacts were only used for the curtain as functional aspects, woolen tapestry curtains were a rare case. In this study, scientific analysis on the accessory ornament of woolen tapestry curtains such as components of metal accessories and frame bar were conducted with the microscope, p-XRF, and SEM. Result of frame bar pigments, organic pigments such as ink stick were likely been used in woolen tapestry curtain 1. In woolen tapestry 2, lead red (Minium) was used in the frame bar. The result of metal parts, copper, and zinc were analyzed by p-XRF. This suggests that metal accessories were crafted using brass. Frame bar of woolen tapestry curtain 2 was made of soft pine (Pinus spp.) analyzed with the scanning electron microscope. Artifacts like woolen tapestry curtains are rare in Korea and scientific analysis databases were scarce, so it is important to construct components analysis data of woolen tapestry curtains. It is expected that additional scientific analysis and interpretation on the artifact's crafting technique can be merged with the analytical data gathered in this study to be utilized on the conservation and restoration of not only woolen curtains but curtain artifacts of the late Joseon dynasty in general.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.591-596
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• 2006

In order to analyze the tailorbility of different fabrics for men's suit, FAST system has been used for measuring the distribution of mechanical properties in this study. As results, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics showed the minimum degree in relaxation shrinkage, formability, and shear rigidity than any other fabrics, and also showed more than 6% as maximum level of extensibility. Thus, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics requires careful tailoring in lay-out, marking, and cutting. It is necessary to establish new tailoring criteria for automatic sewing with cashmere mixed woolen fabrics than any other fabrics, because they show more failure rate of tailorbility. There have been noticeably more variation of shrinkage and extension for woolen fabrics with cashmere mixed than 100% woolen fabrics by evaluating the formability of the suits when these are completed to suits through cutting and tailoring from fabrics. Especially nylon mixed woolen fabrics showed shrinkage overall, but polyester mixed woolen fabrics showed extension at waist area. Thus, it is necessary to adjust the appropriate overfeed rate considering the amount of shrinkage and extension while tailoring.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.420-423
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• 2006

Spandex has been successfully applied on modified worsted spinning system to produce spandex core spun yam. However it's difficult to produce wool/spandex core-spun yam on woolen spinning system with the same modified device because the drafting device of the two systems is quite different. A new method is introduced to apply spandex on woolen spinning system in this paper. Core-spun yam produced in this way has good appearance and quality by comparing with normal yam. A series of experiments were carried out to study the influence of spandex drafting ratio and yam twist factor on tensile' properties and elasticity of core-spun yams. The results indicate that core-spun yam with spandex drawing ratio of 2.5 and twist factor of 13.63 has highest value of tenacity and breaking elongation.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.120-134
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• 2021

조선 말기 방한용 깔개인 모담(毛毯)이 창덕궁 성정각의 해체 공사 중 발견되었다. 문헌기록에 비해 현전하는 조선시대 모직물 유물이 많지 않아 유물로서 가치가 높다. 특히 1907년 창덕궁 성정각을 수리한 기록이 있어, 모담은 19세기 말 또는 20세기 초에 제작된 것으로 생각된다. 출토 모담은 자적색 계열의 바탕 직물로 위에 황색, 홍색 등으로 선염한 색사를 표면에만 삽입하여 문양을 시문하였다. 모담의 식서부분은 S연의 면사가 확인되었으며, 지경사는 Z연의 황마사, 지위사는 S연의 황마사, 문경사는 S연의 모사를 사용했다. 특히 무늬는 루프파일의 색사로, 색사의 경계면에서 일부 컷 파일이 확인되나 지위사로 고정되어 표면에 거의 드러나지 않는 다. 황마사와 모사를 사용한 것은 18세기 중엽 유럽의 브뤼셀 카펫의 영향을 받은 것으로 짐작된다. 모담의 문양을 밝히는 데 한계가 있으며 다만 문양이 부분적으로 반복됨을 알 수 있다. 이상의 연구내용을 도출하기 위해 문헌과 회화자료 외에 현미경 분석, 적외선 분광분석을 실시하였다. 또한 유물에 사용된 염료를 밝히기 위해 색도측정을 토대로 자외-가시광 분광분석을 실시하여 천연 염색한 직물 샘플에 대한 교차분석을 시도하였다. 그 결과 모담의 녹색 모사는 쪽을 사용하지 않았으며, 자적색의 바탕조직은 소목으로 염색한 것으로 추정할 수 있다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권7호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2004

This study discussed the dyeing of wool and cotton fabrics with Betel Palm Tree White woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics purchased from HATH (Korea Apparel Testing ＆ Research Institute) were used as experimental fabrics. Using dyeing powder extracted from dyeing material, various temperatures, dyeing times, and pH were used in the dyeing process. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu, and Sn were used as mordant and the absorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The optimum condition for pre-mordanting dyeing was dye concentration of 25% (o.w.f) and mordant concentration of 0.5$^{\circ}$∼1%. Woolen fabric showed an increase of absorption and the maximum absorption was achieved at weak acidity. According to the mordanting methods, woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics were treated with various mordanting agents, a mordant rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$, for 30 minutes and dyed with a dyeing material concentration of 25% (o.w.f), at a rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. The best dyeing effect w3s achieved at the temperature of 60$^{\circ}C$ for cotton and 80$^{\circ}C$ for wool fabrics. The light fastness of cotton and wool fabrics was low and particularly the fastness to perspiration was decreased with Fe mordanting. I concluded that pre-mordanting method was better than post-mordanting method for cotton and woolen fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.125-133
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• 2006

The term Moja(毛子) is the name of Jilson(質孫), the traditional costume of Mongolian own meaning one colour. Mo generally means woolen or worsted fabric, so most scholars also regarded Moja as the same. This paper studied the kind of fabric of Moja by using the way of studying the cultural exchange between ancient Korea and China. This study showed that Moja is ramie instead of woolen or worsted fabric. It also showed that its name was born the long history of the cultural exchanging process between China and Korea. Moja was written as Musi(木絲) or Mosi(沒絲) at China in early period, and changed to Mosi(毛施) in ancient Korean. It was changed to Chinese Maozi in later period.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.533-544
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to provide practical information to design woolen fabrics in terms of structural and surface characteristics, which produce texture images of fabrics. The relationship among structural, surface characteristics and texture images, and preference and purchase intention were analyzed. To evaluate the texture images of the fabrics subjectively, 7 rank＇s semantic differential scale questionnaires were developed with thirty adjective pairs. Blind and non-blind test were performed with 320 female subjects who were in their 20-30＇s. Commercially available 48 woolen fabrics were used as specimens. Results showed that five factors were obtained: classic, elegance, warmth, natural and casual. These factors were closely related to fiber type, weave type, fabric counts, and finishes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.339-353
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• 2004

Purposes of this study were to analyzed coat types and characteristics of coat of young persons, and search whether fashion trend is reflected on coat. Data collected pictures that they are wearing dress in street of Daejeon city 3 places that there are much the rising generations at November, 1999. This study target was from teens latter half to 20 opening part, 154 women. Data analyzed content analysis, frequency analysis, crossing and the result is as following. First, classification standard of coat was textile fabric, form of detail and ornament. Second, coat could classify in three types, type 1 was traditional duffle coat style that is distinguished by form of detail and ornament(hood and button). Type 2 was classified property of textile fabric that used leather, padding, fur etc., and type 3 was classified by collar detail of woolen fabric coat. Specially, ornamental fur of woolen coat perceived visually strong. And design detail of coat showed significant difference in coat type. That is, duffle coat type was designed patch pocket and toggle, woolen fabric coat type was hidden button and seam pocket. Third, fashion tendency of coat was proved that is reflecting part of predicted fashion trend.

• 섬유기술과 산업
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.458-463
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• 1997