• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.412-421
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• 2012

The yerba mate that grows in the subtropical forests of South America is an evergreen tree within the Aquifoliaceae family. The yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis) tea is habitually used as a drink in Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, and Southern Brazil. A wild mate tree needs about 25 years to fully grow to 15 a height of meters; however, they only grow to a height of 3-5 meters when cultivated. The leaves are 7-11 cm long and 3-5cm wide with a serrated margin. Yerba mate tea-based beverages are made from the leaves and stems of the mate tree. It is known that they contain a rich content of antioxidants and polyphenol, vitamins, amino acids, minerals and colorants. Dyeing properties of a mate plant in the silk, wool, linen and cotton fabrics were investigated. Constituents of colorant of mate tea are chlorophyll and carotinoid; in addition, it has more minerals such as (Fe, Ca, Mn, Mg, Na, K, Zn, and Cu) than green tea. Mate tea colorants showed good affinity to silk and wool fabrics. It was found that the optimum condition for dyeing was 30 minutes for dyeing time, 7 for pH of dyebath, and at a dyeing temperature of $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum absorbance wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of silk and wool fabrics dyed with mate tea were at 420-440nm; however, that of linen and cotton fabrics were at 400nm. K/S values of fabrics dyed under optimum conditions were 1.979 for silk fabrics, 1.541 for wool fabrics, 0.551 for linens and 0.465 for cotton fabrics. Munsell hue values of dyed fabrics measured 3.1Y-6.4GY for silk, 1.4Y-8.3Y for wool, 5.5Y-3.7GY for linen, and 5.3Y-1.3GY for cotton. All dyed fabrics showed hues in-between greenish yellow and greenyellow. Colorfastness to rubbing, perspiration and dry-cleaning of dyed fabrics with mate tea were very good; however, the grades of colorfastness to washing of dyed linen and cotton fabrics were poor, and colorfastness to light were poor.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.17-25
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• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.134-138
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• 1993

Wool, silk and nylon 6 fabrics were treated with low-temperature plasma under atmospheric pressure of acetone/argon or helium/argon for 30 and 180 sec, and then dyed with leveling type acid dye, C.I. Acid Red 18 and milling type acid dye, C.I. Acid Blue 83. In spite of short time of the plasma treatment for thirty seconds, the color depth of wool fabrics was increased remarkably with both of the plasma gases, aceton/argon or helium/argon and with the kinds of dyes i.e., levelin type or milling type. But the atmosperic low-temperature plasmas did not increase the depth of silk and nylon 6 fabrics dyed with both of the acid dyes regardless of the teated time and plasma gases. It seems that low-temperature plasma by atmospheric-pressure discharge is effective for improvement of dyeing of wools as is the same way with the low-temperature plasma by glow discharge. The kinds of plasma gases and treated time did not influnce the depth of wool fabric pretreted with the atmosperic low-temperature plasmas.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.7
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

Recently there has been interested in the use of natural dyes in textile applications. Generally natural dyes can exhibit better biodegradability and have a higher compatibility with the environment. In this study, cotton, wool and silk fabrics were dyed with alkali extract of Arecae semen using various mordants, and their dyeabilities were discussed. Additionally the fastness to washing, perspiration, light, rubbing, and drycleaning and UV-B protection rate were also investigated. Cotton, silk and wool fabrics dyed with alkali extract of Arecae semen were colored in reddish yellow tint. The optimum dyeing condition of the colorants extracted from the Alecae semen was three repeated dyeing at $95^{\circ}C$ for 1.5 hrs. The dyed fabrics by using mordanting methods improved the fastness to washing, perspiration and drycleaning, but the fastness to light and rubbing were not increased. The UV-B protection rate of the wool fabrics were increased by dyeing with extract of Arecae semen.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1011-1019
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• 1998

The natural dyestuff(squid ink) was manufactured from squid ink by boiling in 0.1% NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer. Cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured squid ink to investigate the dyeability and color fastness. Dyeing was operated in acidic dyebath of pH 4 because the squid ink is anionic. Dyeabilities on wool, silk and nylon fabrics were good, especially silk fabrics were dyed deeper than others because of being amine group. But dyeability on cotton fabrics was low and developed with chitosan treatment. All the dyed fabrics showed excellent in color fastness to crocking and laundering. Also light fastness of them were excellent except nylon. The light fastness of dyed-nylon fabrics was as poor as grade 1, but they could be improved to grade 4 by aftertreatment with gallicacid. Useing the natural dyestuff-squid ink powder, we could execute whenever we want to dye fabrics in the adequate concentration. Dyeabilities were developed according to repeating times of dyeing and the increased dye concentration. We could recycle the wasting sources.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.155-164
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• 2001

Textile wet-processing industry usually five rise to environmental pollution problems caused by using chemical substance. The objective of this study is to apply enzymes for wool and reduce the environmental problems. Three commercial protein degradation enzymes and a cellulose degradation enzyme as a reference were treated to prevent the shrinkage of wool fabric on laundering. Shrink resistant effects used change with the kinds of enzyme, the amount of enzyme, assistant chemicals, and the pre-treatment condition of wool fabric. When pre-treated with corona before enzyme treatment under ultrasonic condition, the weight loss was increased and strength was decreased and elongation was increased. Both corona pre-treatment and the addition of $Na_2SO_4$ also decreased shrinkage of wool fabrics on laundering. The existence of assistant chemicals increased alkali solubility of wool fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.305-314
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• 2016

This paper investigated the applicable possibility of PTT and wool staple fibers to the air vortex system as high quality yarns for a high emotional and comfort garment. It was found that the tactile hand of vortex yarn knitted fabrics was harsher than ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was observed that formability and sewability of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics seemed worse than ring and compact yarns due to low tensile and compressional resilience and high bending and shear hysteresis of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics. It revealed that wicking and drying rates of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were better than ring and compact yarns; in addition, the heat keepability of vortex yarn knitted fabric was higher than ring and compact yarns due to low thermal conductivity and max heat flow rate ($Q_{max}$). Any difference of thermal shrinkage between air vortex and ring yarn knitted fabrics was not shown, but pilling characteristic of air vortex yarn knitted fabric was superior. However, it was shown that wicking, drying, thermal property and pilling characteristics of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were superior due to air vortex yarn structure with parallel fibers in the core part and periodical and fasciated twists in the sheath part of the yarns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.73-84
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate dyeing properties of silk and wool fabric by Cassia tora extracts according to the conditions such as extraction(temperature time) dyeing(temperature time) condition kinds of mordants temperature of mordanting. The color fastness of laundering irradiation were examined. The results were as follows: The wavelength of maximum absorpthion by extracts appeared at 201, 277, 382nm in UV-Vis spectrum. Absorbance of extracts were increased with temperature and time. The extraction efficiency of Cassia tora was determined as $95^\circ{C}$ of extraction temperature 120 minutes of extraction time. Silk fabric had highest K/S value when dyeing for 90min at $40^\circ{C}$. Wool fabric had highest K/S value when dyeing for 60min at $80^\circ{C}$. Surface color of silk and wool fabric dyed with Cassia tora extracts was 3,9Y and 0.4Y but it was changed from 9.3YR to 7,4Y and from 9.4YR to 5Y by mordants. The fabrics of mordanted by metal ion dyed the depth of color. Laundering and irradiation fastness of mordanted fabrics were improved as compared with nonmordanted fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.4 s.40
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• pp.373-380
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• 1991

In the previous paper, we already discussed about the factor effected upon the initial maximum value of heat flux ($q_{max}$). Thermal conductivity, thermal transmittance and surface air cavity of wool fabrics were examind and their correlation to the $q_{max}$ was also studied In this study, the other factor was examined which had on effect upon the qmaf of an objective measure of warm/cool feeling. It was studied that the qmax correlated to the surface sturucture parameters (compression, friction, smoothness, roughness, thickness and weight). It was concerned to the degree of warm/cool feeling when we touched hand on fabrics. We selected twenty sorts of pure wool woven fabrics for men's fall-winter cloth (all Wool). The conclusions are as follow; 1. There was a good correlation between the $q_{max}$ and the compression property. 2. The surface structure parameters, smoothness and roughness, made various effects on the $q_{max}$, when the samples touched on a thin copper plate. So, there was not a certain correla-tion to the $q_{max}$.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.249-257
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• 2003

For the efficiency in extracting gromwell colorant, methanol, ethanol and aceton were used as solvents. Also, to compare the results when dyed in various conditions and on various fabrics, the ratio of water-dye mixture, pH, temperature, and varieties of fabrics -wool, silk, cotton, nylon, ramie- were selected. L, a, b, ΔE, munsell and K/S value of each sample was measured and compared for the practical use. Water-dye mixture of 5:5 ratio showed the optimum dyeability. Not to mention wool and silk, but also cotton showed a satisfying dying result at the acidity of pH4. As the temperature increased, the dyeability of all three fabrics improved greatly. Especially, wool showed the highest improvement in terms of dyeability as the temperature increased. K/S values for wool and nylon showed superior results to the others in the gromwell colorant. The resulting color turned out somewhat different depending on the solvents used and the sort of fabric that was tested on. When the gromwell colorant extracted with methanol or ethanol was applied, the color of fabrics came out as purple or purpleblue. When the colorant extracted with acetone was used, the color of fabrics came out to be redpurple. The colorfastness to light showed low glades regardless to whichever solvents were used. The grades of colorfastness to laundering were recorded low numerical values, and its record became even lower when the gromwell colorant extracted with aceton was applied. The staining grade of the colorfastness to laundering showed a good grade in the range of 4 to 5. All the dyed fabrics showed a excellent drycleaning fastness.