• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.59-66
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.519-528
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• 2017

Mobile shoppers have encountered frequent color mismatch in the products that they have purchased, as they can only rely on their sense of sight. Therefore, fabric color and color difference recognized by smartphone display during mobile shopping were studied using instrument analysis method. It aimed to gather precise information on actual fabric color understanding of the mobile shoppers purchasing textile products. Three smartphones were selected from LG, Samsung, and Apple companies, and four colors were researched (red, yellow, green and blue) to both polyester and wool test fabrics for color analysis though color measuring instruments. The results from the spectrophotometer indicated that the color coordinate location of smartphone fabric color is similarly distributed regardless of the type of fabric. The Samsung smartphone displays a relatively high color chroma (especially on red-colored fabric) regardless of the type of fabric due to a high color reproduction range. In contrast, the LG smartphone, which has high color temperature, displays high color chroma on the blue colored fabric with a significant color mismatch between the actual fabric color and smartphone fabric color. From the results of this study, issues related to mobile shopping can be addressed through an analysis of the products sold, the smartphone's color representation, and user understanding.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.129-136
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• 1993

Authors have studied the adsorption of anionic surfactant from detergent solutions on cotton fabric during washing process and have measured the concentration of the residual surfactant in rinsing solution. The relations with temperature and pre-soaking time to rinsing process have been studied. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate by various textile fibers has also been investigated. The results of this study are; 1. Three times rinsing is sufficient as, without pre-soaking, the concentration of the surfactant on fabric is stable from that time on. 2. The rinsing efficiency increases with temperature; at $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, and $55^{\circ}C$, the concentrations of surfactant on the fabric after-rinsing are 68, 59, 51 mg/100 g of fiber respectively. 3. The longer the pre-soaking time, the lower the rinsing efficiency is; the 4hrs presoaked fabric shows increased surfactant concentration than the one without-soaking. And the increment is 35.8%. 4. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate on fabrics differs greatly with the chemical nature of the fiber; wool, silk and nylon which are thought to be ionic-adsorbants shows greater adsorption. 5. The adsorption of surfactant is more affected by the ionic character than the physical one, and the one with higher crystallinity such as cotton and polyester shows lower value than rayon or acetate.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.113-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this paper is to study the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, with a focus on its aesthetics, its practical use and its traditional meaning. After the examination of its history, the paper, recreated the proceeds by taking into consideration both the contemporary men's fashion, as well as the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ designs of the past. The three factors of contemporary $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ design, in brief, are its historical meaning, the visual aesthetics and the wearability. In this paper, the research and design steps are as followed below. First, the paper examined the history of men's fashion leading up to the twenty-first century in order to get a deeper understanding of the history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$. Second, the paper attempted to find the most suitable fabric materials and flowers for the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, in order to produce diverse $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ that can be worn in any season and occasion. As for the fabrics that can be used to make the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, organza can be used for the S/S season, and wool, tweed and suede can be used for the F/W season. The major characteristics that differentiate the kinds of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ are the "Carnation" and the "Rose of Sharon". The 'Rose of Sharon' $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ as the symbol of our nation possesses an intricate meaning and practical function, so that this $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is used as an alternative badge of the national assembly and other social-national institutions and their members. This idea expands into other social and individual features that the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is a differentiated fashion item that provides other personal styles and expresses individuality.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2012년도 제46차 학술발표회
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• pp.107-107
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• 2012

3종 복합소재인 양모와 나일론, 레이온의 염색공정은 먼저 알칼리 욕에서 반응성염료로 레이온을 염색한 후, 산성욕에서 산성염료로 양모와 나일론을 염색하는 것이 일반적이다. 그런데 양모, 나일론, 레이온은 알칼리에 민감하므로 면 염색 시 적용되는 강알칼리인 수산화나트륨을 사용하면 섬유의 취화로 인하여 강도와 촉감저하 등의 문제가 발생하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 알칼리 중 탄산나트륨과 중탄산나트륨을 사용하여 염료를 투입하지 않고 염색공정을 거친 후 백도와 인장강도를 측정하여 황변 및 강도 변화 여부를 알아보았다. 레이온 70%, 양모 19%, 나일론 11%의 혼용율을 가지는 전처리 된 편물(130$g/m^2$, 32 inch, 18 gauge)에 탄산나트륨(시약 1급) 20g/l과 중탄산나트륨(시약 1급) 20g/l 각각을 투입하고 반응성염색공정($60^{\circ}C$, 60 min)으로 처리한 경우와 반응성 염색 후 산성염색공정($98^{\circ}C$, 60 min)으로 처리한 경우로 나누어 측색을 통해 백도와 L, a, b값을 측정하고 KS K 0521에 따라 인장강도 시험을 실시하였다. 그 결과, 탄산나트륨 투입시 백도 값이 중탄산나트륨에 비해 10% 정도 낮아지고 L, a, b값도 상대적으로 yellow 방향으로 이동해 있는 것으로 나타났다. 이것은 황변이 일어남을 의미하며 육안으로 확인하였다. 또한 인장강도 측정결과를 통해 소다회 처리 시 중조에 비해 30% 정도의 강도 저하가 일어남을 확인할 수 있었다. 그러나 반응성염색 후 산성염색을 거치게 되면 황변과 강도 저하 현상이 회복되는 경향을 나타내었다. 즉, 천연/나일론 편물을 반응성염색 시 알칼리로 탄산나트륨을 사용하면 염색공정 상에서 중탄산나트륨에 비해 황변이 일어나 염료 고유의 색상 발현에 영향을 줄 수 있고 강도 또한 30% 정도 저하되지만, 후에 산성염색 공정을 거치면 산 조건과 욕중 효과를 통해 일부 개선됨을 확인하였다. 이와 별도로 이번에는 시판되는 반응성염료 5종과 산성염료 3종을 조합하여 탄산나트륨과 중탄산나트륨 투입에 따른 염색실험을 실시하고 측색(DataColor SF600 광원D65, Strength)을 통해 염착량을 비교하였다. 그 결과, 중탄산나트륨으로 염색하면 탄산나트륨에 비해 모두 염착량이 저하되었으며, 염료의 구조적 차이와 컬러별로도 그 차이는 다양하였다. 그 중 저온에너지형 반응성염료는 탄산나트륨 투입에 비해 47~60% 정도로 가장 양호하였으며, 일부 반응성염료는 20%까지 떨어지는 값을 나타내었다. 이것은 탄산나트륨보다 중탄산나트륨의 알칼리 정도가 낮으므로 반응성염료의 염착이 적은 것으로 생각되며, 저에너지형 반응성염료의 경우에는 낮은 온도나 알칼리 조건에서도 상대적으로 높은 고착률을 나타내므로 적절한 반응성염료의 선택을 통해 그 차이를 극복할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 이상의 결과를 통해 탄산나트륨과 중탄산트륨의 알칼리 정도가 강도와 염착량에 미치는 영향의 차이를 고려하여 최적의 현장 처방을 선정해야 함을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1479-1490
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• 2010

This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권12호
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• pp.1784-1792
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• 2007

현대의 패션의 다양화, 개성화로 패션 스타일을 구현하는데 있어서 모자는 더욱 부각되어 수요자 층이 확대되고 있지만, 다양한 재료와 형태로 세탁 및 관리에 어려움을 갖는다. 이에 본 연구는 모자제품의 관리방법에 대한 소비자의 현황을 조사, 분석함으로써 모자 레이블 부착의 문제점과 개선책 방안을 모색해 보고자 하며, 나아가 모자의 보관이나 세탁방법에 대한 정확하고 충분한 정보를 제공함으로써 제품을 오랫동안 유지할 수 있게 하고자 한다. 소비자들의 모자제품의 세탁 및 관리행동에 관한 조사를 하기 위하여 서울 및 도시에 거주하며 모자를 소유하고 있는 20대, 30대, 40대, 50대 이상의 남녀 395명을 대상으로 연령과 성별을 고려한 할당 표본추출방법을 통하여 설문지 조사를 실시하였다. 조사기간은 2007년 3월에서 4월까지 이루어 졌으며, 설문은 총 42문항으로 구성되었다. 모자 착용실태, 세탁방법, 건조방법, 보관방법에 관한 문항은 선다형으로, 모자 소비자 불만, 소비자 모자 레이블 인식에 관한 문항은 5점 리커트 척도로 측정하고, 자료분석을 위하여 SPSS 12.0 프로그램으로 빈도, 백분율, 평균, 표준오차, 교차분석, t-test, 일원분산분석 통계처리를 하였다. 그 결과에 의하면 첫째, 모자 소비자의 세탁방법 인식도와 실천정도는 보통 수준으로 나타났다. 남성보다는 세탁경험이 많은 여성이 모자 세탁 방법에 대하여 잘 알고 실천하고 있었으며, 편안함을 추구하는 젊은 세대보다 높은 연령대가 세탁방법을 더 잘 실천하는 것으로 조사되었다. 둘째, 모자 소비자들은 다른 의복 아이템과 비교하여 울세제로 세탁망에 넣어 세탁기로 돌리거나 손으로 직접 빠는 세심한 관리를 하는 경우가 많았다. 세탁빈도는 더러움이 탈 때마다 하는 것으로 조사되었으며, 세탁의 주 목적은 얼룩제거로 나타났지만, 여성은 남성에 비해 모자의 형태보전과 냄새제거를 중요한 요인으로 평가하는 것으로 나타났다. 건조장소에 있어서는 그늘에서 건조한다는 응답이 가장 많았고 대부분 집게로 집어 빨래 줄에 말리는 경우가 많았다. 모자 세탁 시 세탁방법, 건조방법, 건조장소의 요인들보다 세제종류가 세탁 후 변형에 영향을 미치는 것으로 조사되어 적절한 세제를 사용할 수 있는 정보를 소비자에게 인지시켜 피해를 줄이는데 노력하여야 할 것이다. 또 보관방법으로는 대부분 옷장 선반에 두고 있었으며 보관 후 형태변화 결과를 경험한 소비자의 비율이 높은 것으로 보아 적합한 모자 보관으로 형태유지에 각별한 주의가 요구된다. 셋째, 대부분의 모자 소비자들은 레이블에 대한 중요성을 인지하고 있으나 다른 의복 아이템에 비하여 모자레이블에 대한 신뢰도는 더 낮게 나타나, 공급자들은 정확하고 실질적인 레이블을 표기하여 신뢰도 회복을 기해야 할 것이다. 많은 소비자들이 모자의 치수 체계 이해에 어려움을 갖고 있으며, 특히 남성의 경우 레이블에 대한 전반적인 인지도가 낮게 나타나 남성 소비자에게도 전반적인 레이블에 대해 교육시키도록 구체적인 노력이 이루어져야만 하겠다. 후속연구에서는 모자의 다양한 형태나 재료에 따른 세탁 및 관리 방법을 보완하여 연구가 수행되어서 보다 구체적인 자료가 제공되어야 할 것으로 보인다.