• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.77-91
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• 2016

Recently, the spun blend yarns with staple fibers and filaments are being developed in the spinning process using an air blowing and electrostatic spinning technology(cyclone) in order to enhance the soft feeling and the fine count spun blend yarn manufacturing competitiveness. In this study, the appropriate separation condition of polyester multifilament was examined according to the treatment condition of conductive agents and voltage on polyester multifilament in the newly developed cyclone spinning process. And it was investigated the physical properties and dyeability of the cyclone wool/polyester spun blend yarns and its wool composite fabrics in comparison with existing sirofil wool/polyester spun blend yarn and its fabrics. As the result, it is determined that the newly developed cyclone wool/polyester spun blend yarn applied fabrics has a superior quality level in terms of practicality.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.9-18
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• 2008

Wool has excellent properties, such as heat retention, absorbency, and elasticity, but it has a disadvantage in washability because the fabric will felt and shrink greatly. Felting causes the interlocking of the fiber surface scales with one another. Therefore, the studies on wool finishing have been focused on shrink proofing. Precedent researches on wool shrink proofing are mostly on eco-friendly method. using enzyme. The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of L-cysteine, EDTA in papain treatment of wool fabrics. The specific contents of study are as follows. Depending on pH, temperature, treatment time, enzyme concentration and L-cysteine, EDTA concentration, weight loss, tensile strength, whiteness, SEM were examined. Each papain treatment conditions depending on L-cysteine, EDTA were optimized from these properties. Papain had very low activation without activators. The optimum conditions of papain treatment were pH 7.5, temperature $75^{\circ}C$, time 30minutes(L-cysteine), 180minutes(EDTA) and papain concentration 5%(o.w.f.). In the use of papain 5%(o.w.f.), the activators optimum concentration was L-cysteine 2%(o.w.f.), EDTA 7%(o.w.f.)

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.672-677
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• 2009

To reduce the dependence of wool dyeing on the temperature several solvents with different properties and structures were added to the dye bath of C. I. Acid Yellow 42. Nearly the same total solubility parameters(${\delta}_t$) of solvents as those of wool fiber and hydrophobic part of the dyestuff were needed to increase disaggregation of dye molecules, loosening the wool fiber and wickabilty of dyeing solution; besides, the large surface tension(${\gamma}$) value of the solvents and the well balanced values of the three-component Hansen solubility parameters such as dispersion(${\delta}_d$), polar(${\delta}_p$), and hydrogen(${\delta}_h$) bonding parameters were required. Among the added solvents dimethyl phthalate(DMP) and acetophenone(AP) were satisfied with these conditions and worked the most successfully in the low temperature wool dyeing. Their effectiveness proven by the dyeing rate and the activation energy ($E_a$) of the dyeing was in the order of DMP > AP > DBE > CH > M >NONE. In conclusion the total solubility parameters(${\delta}_t$), the three-component Hansen parameters and the surface tension(${\gamma}$) of DMP and AP could be the guidelines to select suitable solvents for low temperature wool dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.76-83
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• 1992

Wool tropical and nylon taffeta were treated with low temperature plasma of $O_2$, $N_2$, NH$_3$, CF$_4$ and CH$_4$ for the intervals of 10 to 300 sec, and then dyed with leveling and milling type acid dyes in presence or absence of buffer solution. From the color depth of dyed fabrics, effect of plasma gases, treated time, dyeing time and temperature on dyeing property was studied. The results of the experiment can be summarized as follows: 1) The plasma treatments except methane gas increased the color depth of dyed wool fabrics, but not that of dyed nylon fabrics regardless of the plasma gases used. 2) The color depth of wool fabrics dyed in the dye bath without buffer solution was increased by the low temperature plasma, especially increased much more by CF$_4$ plasma treatment. It is found that with the identification of F- ion in the residual dye bath the hydrogen fluoride gas was adsorbed on wool fabrics in the plasma treatment. 3) The color depth of wool fabrics was increased with the time of $O_2$ and CF$_4$ plasma treatments. 4) In both cases of the leveling and milling type acid dyes, the rate of dyeing was increased in the low temperature plasma treatments, and it is found that the leveling type acid dye increased the color depth at relatively low temperature below 4$0^{\circ}C$, compared with the milling type acid dye.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.945-952
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• 2004

Shrink-resist effects and properties of the knitted fabrics from wool/acrylic(W/A) fiber blends were determined to find out an optimal blending ratio keeping the quality properties of wool products. The test fabrics were knitted by a weft knitting machine with all needle knitting structure ($0{\times}0$ rib) under the same knitting conditions with five different types of yarns: $W100\%,\;A100\%$, and W/A blended yarns(70/30, 50/50, 30/70). Shrinkage during repeated washing, electrostatic propensity, thermal resistance and pilling propensity of W/A knits. The shrink resistance was significantly enhanced on repeated washing of W/A knits, especially, over $50\%$ acrylic blended knits. Addition of strong physical force and alkali detergent applied in this washing experiment brought about superior effects with the low shrinkage rate although it was very severe washing conditions for wool fabrics. The results from the washing experiment implies that W/A blend knits can be machine washed at individual households with other ordinary laundry. There was some changes and variation found in thermal resistance, electrostatic propensity, and pilling. W/A 50/50 blended knits did not bring serious changes to other physical properties comparing with original wool, which helps consumers care wool knitted clothes more conveniently.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.58-70
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• 1998

The color difference value of fabrics dyed with browning extracts from mushroom were as follows. 1. Two hours of dyeing depending on pH at 95℃ exhibited colors of YR and Y. The color of wool and nylon was darkest brown at pH 4, but light brown or yellow as pH increased. The color of silk was darkest brown at pH 5 and pH changes resulted in the same tendency as in wool. 2. In wool the color was changed to darker brown as time prolonged, however, there was no further color change after 9hr and value and chroma of wool declined. 3. At pH 4, the increase in temperature turned colors of sil, wool and nylon into dark brown from light yellow. 4. As the result of repetitive dyeing, colors of silk, wool and nylon gradually turned into darker brown. The repetitive dyeing was more effective in dark color and high colorfastness compared to a prolonged dyeing. 5. The amount of mordant resulted in color changes between light yellow and dark brown without various color changed. 6. In color change according to methods of mordant, post-mordant with CuSO₄·5H₂O and with SnCl·2H₂O showed colors of green and light yellow, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.87-95
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• 2000

The changes on shrinkage, dyeability, antimicrobial activities and other physical properties of wool fabrics by chitosan treatment were investigated. A acid dye, a basic dye and natural artemisia were used for dyeing of wool fabrics. For Antimicrobial test of wool fabrics, S.Aureus was used. As the results, The wool fabrics treated with chitosan showed a marked decrease in shrinkage. Dyeability increased slightly as concentration of chitosan treatment increased, Dyeability of acid dye was the highest than other dyes. On the other hand, the dyeability of basic dye on chitosan treated fabrics was lower than untreated fabrics. Reduction rates of colony of chitosan-treated wool fabrics showed from 64.8% to 85.24% as chitosan concentration increased. Reduction rates of colony of the chitosan-treated fabrics decreased by dyeing with acid and basic dye. But increased by retreating with chitosan. Fabrics dyeing with atremisia showed above 90% reduction rate against S.Aureus on all chitosan concentrations. The Tensile properties of chitosan-treated fabrics showed little decrease. The moisture regain and the air permeability was decreased on chitosan concentration on 0.1% but recovered as chitosan concentration increased. The warmth retention was increased a little by chitosan treatment. The drapeability became hard as chitosan concentration increased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.7-13
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• 2009

The effects of 0.1g/dl nonionic surfactant solutions on liquid wetting and retention properties of wool fabric are reported. The 10 different nonionic surfactants (Span 20, Tween 20, 40, 60, 80, 21, 61, 81, 65, 85), wool cloth (EMPA 217), and wool soiled cloth (EMPA 107) are used in the study. Both EMPA 217 and 107 have water contact angle($\Theta$)>$90^{\circ}$, which indicates that water spreading over a fabric surface and penetration into the fabric rarely occur. However, EMPA 217 and 107 are easily wetted with perchloroethylene(PCE) having very low values of $\Theta$'s and high values of liquid retention. Water wetting properties are greatly improved by adding nonionic surfactants into the system. Generally, hydrophilic surfactants which have low number of carbon atoms or unsaturated hydrophobic structures are effective in improving water wetting of wool fabrics. The water retention of EMPA 217 and 107 in surfactant solutions have positive relations with $cos{\Theta}$, adhesion tension, and work of adhesion. 40.3% pore volume of EMPA 217 and 26.1% pore volume of EMPA 217 can be filled with water even when we assume $cos{\Theta}=1$ (${\Theta}=0^{\circ}$).

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.14-20
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• 2010

Squid ink was purified to melanin powder by repeated treatments with aqueous sodium hydroxide and acetic acid solutions. The exhaustion dyeing conditions of melanin to wool fabrics were investigated in relation with pH, melanin concentration, dyeing temperature and time. The melanin was dyeable to cotton and wool fabrics but higher dyeability of the wool was observed. A K/S of 7 was obtained on the optimally dyed wool fabrics with 5 % owf melanin under pH 4 at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. Color fastness to both washing and rubbing was excellent and color fastness to light was also very good probably due to the polymeric nature of the extracted sepia melanin.