• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.377-391
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to research grading work according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about 20 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1 The brands for older women manufactured more sizes and cared more about somatotypes fur grading than other brands did. 2. For upper garments on the basis of bust girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 7 for 30's, and 7 for 40's & 50's. 3. For lower garments on the basis of hip girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 6 for 30's, and 5 for 40's & 50's. 4. As a model size of grading, many brands used the smallest size, but the brands for 40's & 50's also used the second size. 5. The parts needed to be corrected after grading were sleeve ease, armhole, shoulder line, neckline, crotch curve, etc. The grading with CAD system had more correction after grading than hand grading.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.518-531
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to research specific dimensional increments of grading and to support to establish a grading system according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about specific dimensional increments of grading fur this research. The results of the study were as follows: 1. Using the most common dimensional increments, 3.81cm(1 f inch) and 5.08cm(2 inch) for upper garments and lower garments, the modes of increments and reference increments for each garment section were suggested. 2. For upper garments, the brands for older women made larger increments of waist girth than for bust girth. This was to cover abdominal obesity. Also, the brands made larger increments of girth than for shoulder breadth. 3. For lower garments, the brands for older women made larger increments of waist girth than fur hip girth. It meant the drop value of hip girth minus waist girth was smaller. The breadths of front and back crotch were also wider.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.59-59
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.877-890
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• 2019

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount defined by 17 women's wear brands for a pants item by target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50). This study utilized 6th Size Korea data and a script-based on a 3D scan measurement program to analyze the increase rate of body size in order to suggest a grading deviation distribution ratio for the pants using regression analysis. This study found that most brands appropriately divided grading amount at front thigh girth and back hip girth into the side and center by 1:1. Most brands divided the grading amount at the front hip girth into the side and center by 1:1; however, the ratio found from Size Korea is 0.8:1.2 for the 20-30 age group, 0.7:1.3 for the 30-40 age group, and 0.6:1.4 for the 40-50 age group. Regarding the back thigh girth, the brands targeting 20-30s, 30-40s, and 40-50s respectively assigned the grading amount into the side and center by 1:1, 1:1.2, and 1:1.3. However, the ratio found from Size Korea is 1.4:0.6 for the 20-30 age group, 1.7:0.3 for the 30-40 age group, and 1.3:0.7 for the 40-50 age group. The results can be utilized in improving the grading system of the pants item.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.821-829
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• 2019

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount for a jacket item by the target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50) for 17 women's wear brands. This study then utilized 7th SizeKorea data to analyze the increase rate of body size and to suggest the grading deviation distribution ratio of the jackets using regression analysis. The increase in neck girth of the jackets targeting aged 30-40s did not reflect the human body change rate. The shoulder length increased by 4.6%-8.1% with the bust girth increase; however, the brands produced longer shoulder length reflecting 20-35% of the bust girth increase. The armhole girth was 54.9% - 59.7% of bust circumstance increase rate. However, the 20-30 target age group brands distributed 80% of bust girth to armhole girth and the 30-40 and the 40-50 target age group brands distributed 50% of the bust girth to armhole. In particular, the 20-30 target age group brands were found to produce a large margin around the armhole. When it came to length items, the brands targeting 20-30s and the 40-50s reflected deviation distribution rate of length from underarm to waist and length from waist to hip in comparison with the overall jacket length deviation. The 30-40 target age group brands, 8 out of 20 brands distributed the jacket length deviation in the length from the back of neck to the underarm; consequently, only 22% percent should be distributed in this part.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to production of the apparels fit and measured well for the Chinese men. For this purpose, Chinese men's apparel measurements and specifications were determined per area group(Beijing/ Shanghai) according to the Men's Wear Specifications (GB/T 1335.1-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. The collected data were statistically processed using SAS 6.12 for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, group-wise analysis and ANOVA. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of dividing the Chinese men into Beijing and Shanghai men and thereby, setting height and upper chest circumference for upper garments and height and waist for lower garments. 2. Analyzing the correlations according to the three-fold classifications of height/upper chest circumference/waist for garment specifications, 17 specifications based on heights and upper chest circumferences for Beijing men's upper garments could be designed within the deviation level of 2%, while 15 specifications based on waist measurements could be designed (between $70{\sim}98cm$) for their lower garments within the deviation level of 4%. Thus, a total of 60 combinations of the specifications could be obtained. 3. 16 specifications based on heights and upper chest circumferences for Shanghai men's upper garments could be designed within the deviation level of 2%, while 16 specifications based on waist measurements could be designed (between $68{\sim}98cm$) for their lower garments within the deviation level of 3%. Thus, a total of 56 combinations of the specifications could be obtained. For other reference measurements, grading measures were set for each type and body part, while the average measures of major body parts were calculated.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.71-86
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• 2002

This study's purpose is to gain basic data for the factory automation of manufacturing custom-made girdles. For this study , obese women in their 30s and 40s was experimented through direct measuring and by the 3D scanner, by means of which the proportions of the subject's body was measured. Based upon the results of this experiment, individually designed girdles were made. In order to gain the basic data for the factory automation of manufacturing custom-made girdles, the patterns and the clothing pressure and the feeling of wearing such girdles were analyzed. This study can be summarized as follows: The material properties and the designs of existing functional girdles in the market were studied thoroughly, and the subject were required to wear those existing girdles. On the basis of this result, the experimental girdles were designed and produced which could serve well the subject's intension. The experimental girdles were of the basic long-type in order to apply to all sorts of girdles, and they were produced according to the style and pattern of the existing grading system. The second experiment was conducted by applying the subject's body measurements. Due to the elasticity of the material, in girdles the smaller measurements were to be used in this second experiment were: 80% of waist size, 84% of the hip and 85% of the thigh. To determine the length of the girdles, the same measurements were applied. The test results of the feeling of wearing the experimental girdles showed that the second, custom-made experimental girdles were better. According to the test results of the clothing pressure, the second experimental girdles(custom-made girdles) marked the higher pressure than the first on every part of the body, especially on the hips and thighs. Thus, it can be said that the second experimental girdles are better than the first in lifting up the hips. It is expected that the design methods developed in this study can be utilized as basic resources for the factory automation system of manufacturing custom-made girdles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.230-243
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyse the body sizes of $7{\sim}12$ years elementary school girls and also to categorize KS size dimensions by the detailed information of ages and body shapes. For the study, the data of SizeKorea(2004) was analysed. Height, bust, waist, hip, the ratio of waist to height and hip to height were significant between age groups, but the ratio of bust to height was not. Therefore, the increase of bust size was resulted in growth of bust circumference, instead of bust volume. In the same height group, over 11 year girls had smaller waist, while over 12 year girls had bigger hip. For Grouping girls by ages and body shapes, the ages were divided into 2 groups, under 10 years old and 11 to 12 years old. The body shapes classified into 3 groups 'Stout-shape', 'Middle-shape', and 'slim-shape', by the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. 'Stout-shape' was significantly big at the almost sizes, but 'Middle-shape' was significantly big at only circumferences, not lengths. In addition, drop(the difference between bust and hip) and lower-drop(the difference between waist and hip) were in inverse proportion to the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. It meant the increases of bust-ratio and hip-ratio of 'Stout-shape' were resulted in overweight, rather than female matureness. The distribution of sizes over 0.5% were grouped for grading system and the subtotal percentiles of each group were calculated for industrial data. The groups which covered more than 10% of consumers were 2 to 6 and the 1 or 2 groups for 'Stout-shape' were also observed, so that children's ready-to wear companies could use them efficiently for their own consumer target.