Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on Split Grading Methods for Women's Pants and Increase Rate of Body Size of Adult Women

성인 여성의 연령대별 인체 부위 간 치수증감률을 반영한 바지 그레이딩에 관한 연구

  • Baek, Rise (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Kyung Hee University) ;
  • Song, Hwa Kyung (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Kyung Hee University)
  • 백리세 (경희대학교 생활과학대학 의상학과) ;
  • 송화경 (경희대학교 생활과학대학 의상학과)
  • Received : 2019.10.08
  • Accepted : 2019.11.13
  • Published : 2019.12.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount defined by 17 women's wear brands for a pants item by target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50). This study utilized 6th Size Korea data and a script-based on a 3D scan measurement program to analyze the increase rate of body size in order to suggest a grading deviation distribution ratio for the pants using regression analysis. This study found that most brands appropriately divided grading amount at front thigh girth and back hip girth into the side and center by 1:1. Most brands divided the grading amount at the front hip girth into the side and center by 1:1; however, the ratio found from Size Korea is 0.8:1.2 for the 20-30 age group, 0.7:1.3 for the 30-40 age group, and 0.6:1.4 for the 40-50 age group. Regarding the back thigh girth, the brands targeting 20-30s, 30-40s, and 40-50s respectively assigned the grading amount into the side and center by 1:1, 1:1.2, and 1:1.3. However, the ratio found from Size Korea is 1.4:0.6 for the 20-30 age group, 1.7:0.3 for the 30-40 age group, and 1.3:0.7 for the 40-50 age group. The results can be utilized in improving the grading system of the pants item.

Keywords

References

  1. Apparel News Editorial Department. (2014). 2014/2015 Korea fashion brand annual. Seoul: Apparel News Co., Ltd.
  2. Cho, J.-S., & Choi, J.-W. (2002). A study on grading practices of women's apparel industry. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 4(3), 55-64.
  3. Cho, Y.-k., & Jo, J.-s. (1996). A study on split grading of the apparel CAD systems. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 20(6), 947-961.
  4. Choi, Y.-S., Kim, S., & Song, M.-R. (2002). A study on the Korean women's wear grading by different age groups. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 10(4), 377-391.
  5. Han, H.-S., Kim, S., & Park, C. K. (2015). Automatic custom pattern generation using width-height independent grading. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 27(6), 908-921. doi:10.1108/IJCST-08-2014-0101
  6. Hlaing, E. C., Krzywinski, S., & Roedel, H. (2013). Garment prototyping based on scalable virtual female bodies. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 25(3), 184-197. doi:10.1108/09556221311300200
  7. Kim, M., & Kim, S. (2018). Development of a script-based versatile three-dimensional body measurement system. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 30(5), 598-609. doi:10.1108/IJCST-10-2017-0159
  8. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards. (2012). 6차 인체 치수조사 [6th Size Korea data]. Size Korea. Retrieved from https://sizekorea.kr/page/report/2
  9. Lee. H. (2018). Design of plus-size sizing system and grading rules for school age boys. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 27(6), 461-469. doi:10.5934/kjhe.2018.27.6.469
  10. Lee, J. Y., & Joo, S. Y. (2005). Size analysis of ready-made clothing for elderly women and fit evaluation according to their body type. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 29 (8), 1092-1101.
  11. Lee. M.-S. (2009). A survey on pants grading of the Korean apparel industry. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 11(6), 896-903.
  12. Lim, J. (2010). A study on the obese junior-high school girls' slacles sizing system and slacks pattern grading. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 12(2), 194-202. doi:10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.194
  13. Lim, J., & Kim, Y. (2009). A development of the slacks pattern grading rule for middle-aged abdominal obese women. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 11(5), 771-778.
  14. Nam, Y.-R. (2017). Development of tailored jacket pattern for the down-aging, middle-aged woman (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Ewha Womans University, Seoul.
  15. Shin, J. Y. (2014). Study of master pattern and developing grading method using 3D body measurements of women in their thirties (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Seoul National University, Seoul.
  16. Sohn, B., & Hong, K. (2005). Development of clothing size and grading increments chart for women in middle age. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 14(1), 107-117.