• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.4
• /
• pp.32-45
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this research is to better understand the Dongmyo, the Eastern Shrine of GuanYu and the military costumes of the Joseon period andto develop different cultural contents. By studying relevant literature, confirmations were made about the various types of costumes and their historical changes. During the reign of King Yeongjo, the ceremonial conductors often wore armors, and the king wore a different military costume. During the reign of King Jeongjo thereafter, the ceremonial costumes were codified in the book, the Chun-gwan tonggo(General Outline for the Ministry of Rites), along with the costumes for the musicians and lower officials. However, the military features were weakened in the late Imperial Joseon years. In terms of costumes, it would be best today to restore the ceremonies of the Shrine of Guan Yu during the period of King Jeongjo. All the costumes for different figures of the Shrine are clearly confirmed, and by emphasizing the main features of the ceremonials of the Shrine, it is possible to differentiate the ceremony from other restoration activities in Korea. For the Guan Yu statue, the hat is square shaped and decorated with nine bead strings, it is dressed with a red dragon coat and a violet inner coat. This study presents methods for the restorations of the original costumes for the individual figures of the ceremonials, with necessary theoretical explanations. The king wears the lamella gold armor, while different ceremonial officials wear differentiated armors according to their different ranks. All the civil and military officials who attend the ceremony wear military clothes with horse's mane hats and swords. The musical conductor and directors are expected in armors and participating musicians also have to wear armors according to the Akhak Gwebeom (Basics of Music).

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.36-52
• /
• 2008

Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.34-47
• /
• 2008

Recently, as popular interest in costumes in Korean films and TV dramas has increased, traditional dress in works has re-evaluated with modern perspective of the Western color system. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First, the traditional dress for women appeared in works after the 2000s has shown features similar in the use of red has appeared high. The high frequency of brown and pink, orange and purple used main colors in Western works. Also, what is the most prominent is the high frequency of use of achromatic colors. Second, the color harmonies of the East and the West have been done through color arrangement. The structure with more than 2-colors has been gradually changing into single or 2-colors, which give simple images to people. Third, in order to portray characters' diverse and psychological situations, Korean works have expressed the symbolisms of colors from the Western perspective. Though red symbolizes theory of Yin-Yang and Five-Elements, passion and authority since 2000 have used red to make main images. Also, pink is used as softness and pure images. Though works before the 2000s showed low frequency of the brown. The achromatic color that it has been applied to various parts. Recently black has been developing into a color symbolizing themes. Given the results from this study, it could be expected in future that the categories of color domains will be gradually extended as it is a trend for the traditional dress to escape from primary colors. On the other hand, achromatic colors that minimal and modern sensibility as well as basic color in fashion, especially the black, will increasingly extend ranges of utility or show a tendency of resolute changes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.230-243
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyse the body sizes of $7{\sim}12$ years elementary school girls and also to categorize KS size dimensions by the detailed information of ages and body shapes. For the study, the data of SizeKorea(2004) was analysed. Height, bust, waist, hip, the ratio of waist to height and hip to height were significant between age groups, but the ratio of bust to height was not. Therefore, the increase of bust size was resulted in growth of bust circumference, instead of bust volume. In the same height group, over 11 year girls had smaller waist, while over 12 year girls had bigger hip. For Grouping girls by ages and body shapes, the ages were divided into 2 groups, under 10 years old and 11 to 12 years old. The body shapes classified into 3 groups 'Stout-shape', 'Middle-shape', and 'slim-shape', by the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. 'Stout-shape' was significantly big at the almost sizes, but 'Middle-shape' was significantly big at only circumferences, not lengths. In addition, drop(the difference between bust and hip) and lower-drop(the difference between waist and hip) were in inverse proportion to the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. It meant the increases of bust-ratio and hip-ratio of 'Stout-shape' were resulted in overweight, rather than female matureness. The distribution of sizes over 0.5% were grouped for grading system and the subtotal percentiles of each group were calculated for industrial data. The groups which covered more than 10% of consumers were 2 to 6 and the 1 or 2 groups for 'Stout-shape' were also observed, so that children's ready-to wear companies could use them efficiently for their own consumer target.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.43 no.12 s.214
• /
• pp.15-28
• /
• 2005

This study groups the life content of adolescents according to their time spent during the week and compares their internet use. The data were collected from 2210 middle and high school students, including their life content and hours, and various internet factors such as self-evaluated internet addiction, internet support, internet experience, chatting subjects and the type of internet service. Adolescents were divided into five groups: TV-oriented group, computer-oriented group, peer-oriented group, self-study group and extracurricular institution group. The purpose of internet use, internet experience, chatting subjects, negative aspects of internet and internet addiction were different by adolescents' group type. The peer-oriented group had the highest real self image as opposed to the cyber self image and trusted other's words on the internet. The TV-oriented group had the lowest trust in the internet. The computer-oriented group received the highest internet support and internet experiences, but didn't use the internet for the purpose of information search. The self-study and extra-curricular institution groups used the internet the least, used it to solve stress and were interested in school circles on the internet.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.1083-1098
• /
• 2009

The purpose of the study is to revaluate the new artistic values of Suprematism that immensely influenced the Russian culture in the beginning of the 20th century. Also through studying the relationship between people and costume within works of Malevich, who wanted to portray humanity through his art works, this study will research on how Suprematism not just stood as Russian Avant-garde art but significantly contributed to art and costume expression. The study methods are as follows. First, consider the formative background of Suprematism style of arts. Second, study of the development of Suprematism art through both Suprematism art and Non-objective art. Third, study how Suprematism style of arts is portrayed in art costume through works of Malevich. The results of the study are as follows. The Russian Suprematism art costume strictly originated from the Russian Suprematism style of arts. Suprematism simplified any reproductive element of fine art with a creative energy, which reflects the statement of Malevich that said, "The object does not exist, it only stands as a symbol." In other words, Suprematism abolished ordinary response to basic environment, and created a much more serious reality than the innate reality of the environment. When applied to art costume, such style sought after geometrical simplicity in shape and Neo-Premitivism trait in color. This trend is also expressed in 21st century fashion in new forms of Minimalism or Futurism. In this respect, Suprematism still holds an artistic value in a novel form even after a century since the beginning of 20th century when Malevich first presented Suprematism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.270-282
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.588-594
• /
• 2008

Lookism is spread largely because many people think beautiful people are treated better and receive more favors. This trend has been influenced by mass media and impacted by commercial marketing strategy. The expectation for the beauty have risen higher than ever. People expect beautiful body and beautiful face which are more difficult to meet the standard of beauty. People desire tall and skinny body. The purpuse of this study was to find out body image from college females in the age which they are very sensitive to appearance. This research focused to find out how they perceived their own body shape and their perception of the most ideal body shape. Measuring tool for the research was 9 pictures of body silhouette from very skinny to very fat. To analyse the respondents' objective body image, Body Mass Index were employed. The result of this research indicated that there were distinct differences between their subjective body images and ideal body images. This result indicated that they were not satisfied with their own body shape and hence they were not confident towards their body images. Even though their objective bodies were normal or under weight, they still felt they were over weight. This meant their body images were misrepresented. They preferred thinner bodies even though their bodies were perfectly normal and healthy. But these misrepresented body images could be unhealthy physically, psychologically, or socially. These results showed that college females were overly obsessive with superficial appearance rather than improving ones capability to be more competitive in the society. From this research, I tried to find out perception of body image and it's distortion which was debated a lot in our society. I also want to provide basic reference material for establishing the body image study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.161-175
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the impact of perceived sustainability management fit of SPA brands on consumer purchase intention. A survey was conducted targeting women in their 20s and 30s from April 27th to May 6th 2013, and a total of 350 questionnaires were used in the final analysis. Frequency analysis, reliability analysis, factor analysis, ANOVA, simple regression analysis and multiple regression analysis were carried out using SPSS ver 21.0. The results of this study are as follows. First, fit of all three areas- economic, ecological and social-of sustainability management activities have a significant impact on consumer perception on sustainability activities. Second, perceived sustainability activities by SPA brands are found to have a positive effect on brand attitude, brand trust and consumer satisfaction. Third, brand attitude and consumer satisfaction forged by perceived sustainability activities by SPA brands have a positive impact on consumers' purchase intention. Based on the result of this study, the following marketing implications can be suggested. First, SPA brands need to be more active in all three area of sustainability activities while coming up with measures for differentiated social sustainability activities. Second, SPA brands need to meet their primary obligation by providing consumers with quality products at a reasonable price. Third, SPA brands need to recognize the potential value of sustainability activities as a driver of a longstanding relationship with consumers as well as long-term profit and value creation, leading to a great financial performance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.193-212
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characters and images of Picasso's muses, to extract the color chip from the works of Picasso, and to apply these results to fashion design. The study includes a literature review, an analysis of visual materials. The results are as follows. Fernande, who was cheerful and voluptuous, was depicted with pink-brown, a few browns, grey, black, white, and green and represents an ethnic and elegant image. Eva, a star-crossed lover, was depicted with a few browns, black, and pale-yellow and represents a gorgeous and natural image. Olga, who was jealous and sickly wife, was depicted with a few blues, browns and neutral-color and represents a classic and dandy image. Th${\acute{e}}$r${\grave{e}}$se, who was innocent and sweet, was depicted with the bright and pastel colors of red, green, violet, and yellow and of white, blue, brown, and black and represents a romantic, pretty, and casual image. Dora, who was intellectually and emotionally- challenging, was depicted with the strong colors of red, yellow, green, and blue, which are in contrast to black and also to white, grey and brown and represents a wild and dynamic image. Gilot, who was strong-willed and prideful, was depicted with the symbolic color of green, a color contrasting with black and white, grey, and pale brown and represents a clear, cool casual and modern image. Jacqueline, the self-giving and reclusive wife, was depicted with deep red, blue, green, black, white, dark brown, grey represents a formal, dandy, and chic image.