• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.12-22
• /
• 2010

As an influential political leader, Queen Elizabeth II holds the link between past queens and today's women political leaders and her dress represents so much in accordance to her role. It is important to analyze the dress and role enactment of Queen Elizabeth II in order to provide a guide to the future women political leaders all over the world. The Queen's dress helps her show tradition which has developed over one thousand years of history. She represents Britain to the world focusing on national identity and unity. The Queen always distinct herself from the rest of the world to show the pride of British Monarch, but when she is visiting other counties for diplomatic relationships she would surely show a friendly gesture on her dress to assimilate herself with that country. Also, same as all other women, the Queen seeks practicality in her dress. Therefore, I was able to classify the Queen's dress into jive groups as a way of role enactment. They are tradition, representation, distinction, assimilation, and practicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.121-133
• /
• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.185-191
• /
• 2000

This survey was carried out to clarify the consumers' behavior related the purchase and use of women's dress shoes. The subjects participated in this study were 386 Korean women. Their age were ranged from 18 to 86 years. The results of this study were as following; 1. The most popular women's dress shoe sizes were 235 and 240. 2. 82.6% of subjects had experienced uncomfortable fit when they wore dress shoes. 3. The subjects aged over 30 years preferred low heel shoes. They valued wearing comfort above fashion trend in shoe design consideration. 4. The subjects aged under 30 years gave more emphasis on fashion trend than comfort and fit when they purchase dress shoes. 5. Consumer's experience of unfit with dress shoes was different with age. The younger subjects complained improper bottom sole shape. The older subjects had experience of unfit with outshell design and material. The subjects aged over 60 years thought that their dress shoe design was too narrow at the toe and lack for flexiblity of shoe material.

• Acta Via Serica
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.37-60
• /
• 2021

Before the tenth century, the dress of elite women in and around China often reflected "Han" Chinese fashions and preferences. In funerary paintings and relief sculptures of Sogdian and Xianbei couples from the sixth century, for example, women wear "Han" Chinese-style clothing. Even in the Tang dynasty (ca. 618-907), when exchange with Central Asia via overland Silk Road trade impacted the styles and patterning of elite dress and men incorporated clear Central Asian attributes into their dress, elite women in the Tang sphere wore recognizably Tang fashions. Chinese-style dress in these centuries clearly conveyed cultural import and, likely, political power, especially after the founding of the Tang dynasty. However, the straightforward borrowing of Tang women's dress shifted in the Khitan Liao dynasty (ca. 907-1125). The Liao, in contrast to other states that shared a border with China in previous centuries, saw themselves as political equals to the Song dynasty (ca. 960-1278) court in the south. The Liao court was interested in Song customs and culture and incorporated artistic motifs and practices from the Song court. However, the Liao courtly idiom was never fully subsumed into the greater world of the Song - rather, the Liao used facets of Song courtly culture for their own ends. One way this is manifested is through the dual administrative system, a bureaucratic organization that, among other things, regulated and distinguished between who was permitted to wear Khitan and non-Khitan dress. In this paper, I will examine the material evidence from funerary contexts for how the dress of elite Liao women both engaged with the dress of the Song, while also maintaining a certain amount of cultural autonomy. Through their dress, elite Liao women signaled clear messages about their status, identity, and difference to their Song counterparts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.43
• /
• pp.187-202
• /
• 1999

The objectives of this study were to analyze the effect of dress(Korean traditional dress and suit) of elderly Women and situation on impression formation. The experimental design was $10\times{2}\times{2(dress}\times{perceiver's age}\times{situation)}$ factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli of color photographs of female in her 60's model and the semantic differential scale were used. Six variables of impression formation were used: preference: elegance: potency: activity: feminine: and modernity. Samples were 400 women 200 were in their twenties and 200 in their forties and fifties. The data were analyzed by $\alpha$-reliability t-test ANOVA and duncan's multiple range test. The Korean traditional dress with the combination of Korean traditional color(light blue upper dress with dark red purple collar and string.dark blue skit) had the most positive effect on impression of elegance. Pink traditional dress and light blue traditional dress had a negative effect on impression of potency activity and modernity. Red purple suit had a positive effect on potency and modernity. The interaction between dress perceiver's age and stituation was significant for the impression of activity. Women in their 40's and 50's perceived the activity of red purple suit positively in the situation of alumnae meeting more than in the wedding ceremony. The perceived age of the stimulus person was different according to dresses. Traditional dresses was perceived older than suits were. Women in their 40's and 50's evaluated preferences of the dresses positively more than 20's did. This means that 40's and 50's feel similarity with the stimulus person more than 20's as the age of model was in their 60's The result supports the theory that similarity is basic factor in interpersonal attraction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.85-102
• /
• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.7 s.106
• /
• pp.54-68
• /
• 2006

This study examined similarity between white porcelain models and dress silhouette of women painted in genre painting in late Joseon period, and found that gourd bottles that are one of main porcelain styles are very similar with dress silhouette of women presented in genre painting in Joseon period; that is, bottle necks of gourd bottles and women's waist, voluminous bottles and erotically full hips, the length of skirts which showed underwear dress and height of porcelain's bottom, waist panel winding slim waist and wide edge of porcelain's mouth. As images are personal mental process of potters who were not socially controlled, they used dress as an indirect means of women's bodies for the subjects of images that are obtained through direct and indirect experiences of the persons who perceive. It indicates that they intended to make their ceramic works express women's dressing style through images of porcelain's models. Such images were sensual, but not superficial. It is suggested that they were influenced by the society which considered ethical experimental mind and practicality of the governing class of that time who enjoyed it metaphorically, but not impudent.

• Korean Journal of Applied Biomechanics
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.83-98
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the test-retest of plantar pressures using the F-Scan system over speeds and plantar regions. 6 healthy female subjects in 20's were recruited for the study. Plantar pressure measurements during locomotor activities can provide information concerning foot function, particularly if the timing and magnitude of the loading profile can be related to the location of specific foot structures such as the metatarsal heads. The Tekscan F-Scan system consists of a flexible, 0.18mm thick sole-shape having 1260 pressure sensors, the sensor insole was trimmed to fit the subjects' right. left shoes - sneakers shoes & dress shoes. It was calibrated by the known weight of the test subject standing on one foot. The Tekscan measurements show the insole pressure distribution as a function of the time. This finding has important implications for the development of plantar pressure test protocols where the function of the forefoot is important. According to the result of analysis it is as follows 1) Center of force trajectory in women's dress shoes display direct movement, compare with center of force trajectory in Sneaker shoes displays a little bit curved slow pronation movement. Sneaker shoes in forefoot part display very quick supination movement, therefore, this shoes effects negative effectiveness for ankle's stability Considering center of force trajectory analyzing the more center of force close straight line, the more movement can be quick movement for locomotion. For foot pressure distribution, center of force trajectory in locomotion is better to curved trajectory with pronation movement. So sneaker shoes style is good shoes considering center of pressure distribution trajectory compare with women's dress shoes. 2) Women's dress shoes increased peak pressure in medial, this is effected by high hill's height. The more increased women's dress shoes's height, the more women's peak pressure will increase, pronation can increase compare with before. Supination movement increase, this focused pressure in lateral, also, supination increased more. If the supination movement increased, foot pressure focused in lateral, therefore, it is appeared force distribution in gait direction. This is bad movement in foot's stability. 3) Women's dress shoes in landing phase displayed a long time, this is when women's dress shoes wear, gait movement is unbalance, so, landing phase displayed a long time. For compensation in gait, swing phase quick movement. 4) Women's dress shoes displayed peak pressure distribution in lateral of rearfoot part, Sneakers shoes displayed peak pressure distribution in medial of forefoot part. Its results has good impact absorption compare with women's dress shoes. In forefoot part, sneakers shoes has good propulsive force compare with women's dress shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.8
• /
• pp.123-135
• /
• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.6
• /
• pp.103-114
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present adapting Korean aesthetics to the design of Wedding dress. For this study. Chosun Women's Pyoeui(coat) were considered. Pyoeui had the courtesy and variety. They were Jugeui, Wonsam, Hwalos, Dangeui, and Jangeui. Pyoeui were considered the formative features and the aesthetical values describing Shape, Color, Material, Pattern, and Ornament. And Pyoeui were considered the instances which were adapted their formative features to Wedding dress. The formative features appearing on Wedding dress were merely applied the outward shape. Therefore it will be necessary to understand the outward features and the aesthetical values about Women's Pyoeui for adapting Wedding dress. And then the continuous attempt is needed to adapt Korean aesthetics to the design of Wedding dress.