• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.162-178
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to find aesthetic characteristics of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes in Modernization that happened in Korea and Japan during the late 19th century and the 20th century. The meaning of modernity has indefinite and comprehensive aspects, and the essence of modernity is found in searching for new changes. Modernization is the process of realizing modernity, and costume modernization can be discussed from the viewpoint of seeking new changes, functionality and popularization of costume. As Korean and Japanese costumes went through modernization, western costume became daily clothes of both two countries. The modernization of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes were achieved in the two directions. First, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes changed to search for functionality modeled of western costume. Korean costume went through dress reform movement and were generally simplified. Japanese costume made a change of wearing mode and introduced new garment like 'Hakama'. Second, the new style of traditional costume appeared. In Korea, 'Saenghwal Hanbox' was shown in the late 20c and in Japan, The reproduced dress(更生服)' and The women's standard dress(婦人標準服)' were shown in the late 1930's and the early 1940's. These kinds of new garment style were the more active compromise between the East and the West.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.60-61
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• 2001

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.81-93
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• 1993

This study concern abut the general costume of women in Rubens' works. And costume which expressed in rubens' Portrait works, was studied from the viewpoint of the Psychological. Most of the element of Renaissance costume had survived in the early of 17 century, thus women's costume were still voluminous. The influence of fashion leader nations in the europe was very great, the fashion of these nations show in a great number of nations' costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.30-46
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• 2008

This study aims to develop an academic costume design representing the university identity of Seoul Women's University. As a formal dress and uniform symbolizing the dignity of study, academic costume arouses self-esteem of the owner and represents the symbolic order. UI(University Identity) is a system that embodies the identity of the university and create a certain image, and thus actively delivers the image pursued by the university. The study method to develop a new academic costume design of Seoul Women's University includes the theoretical background of UI and academic costume, investigation on the current rendition of academic costume, home and abroad, and a survey to collect the basic data for academic costume design development. Most of the respondents presented negative opinions on the existing academic costume and graduation cap, which do not show any clear distinction from those of other universities. They made a pressing demand for the development of an academic costume that well represents the image of the university by reflecting the university feature and symbol. As a result of the survey, it turned out that they preferred an academic costume with short length balloon sleeves to the exiting one, and that as for neck line and front hook, those of the existing one were preferred. This study developed and presented 9 different models of graduation gowns and 5 different caps based on the theoretical investigation and survey concerning academic costume. It is expected that the academic costume representing the university identity not only arouses self-esteem of the owner, but also enhances the university's position.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.36-44
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to identify and to classify the names of costume colors of women of Silla. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Until now scholars and researchers interpreted nine colors in Sam Guk Sa Ki as nine colors explained in the dictionaries. However, term, nine colors in the contexts did not refer to the literary meaning of nine colors such as blue, red, yellow, white, black, green, purple, pink, and navy blue as explained in the dictionaries. 'Nine colors' of Silla were women's costume colors which were specified in the royal edict in the texts. Thus, 'nine colors' of Silla had a specific meaning rather than literary meaning. 'Nine colors' of Silla women's costume were identified as red( ), yellow(黃), purple(紫), purplish pink(紫粉), gold powder(金屑), pink(紅), yellow powder(黃屑), dark pink(緋) and dark purple(滅紫). These 'nine colors' were actually prohibited colors in women's costume in the royal edict. Women from true bone, the highest class, were prohibited the use of tow colors of red and yellow out of nine colors. While women from four du pum and common class were forbidden the use of nine colors out of total of nine colors. Kinds and numbers of colors of costume were used as a means of differentiating the social class and rank of women in Silla. Also it was found that women of Silla favored red purple, pink tones and yellow color in their costume and these colors were fashionable colors among women of Silla. These fashionable costume colors of Silla women seems to be influenced by fashions of women of T'ang dynasty of China. Red, purple, pink, yellow and green were favorite colors of women of T'ang dynasty of China.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.73-80
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• 2008

Since costume comprises organic substances, it hardly sustain to remain long, compared with other historic relics, and it requires some professionalism to preserve and maintain costume remains. Anyway, the fact that there is no professional costume curator working for museums in Korea, except for a few museums, suggests that importance of costume remains as cultural assets has yet to be fully recognized. In such circumstances, this study was aimed at analyzing the problems of costume remains collected at university museums in Seoul and thereupon, providing for some basic data conducive to the researches into costume remains to promote a better understanding and recognition of our own unique costume culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.133-145
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• 2000

Costume in movies are used as an instrument to signify the personality image and status of characters, and even the main theme of movie itself. The purpose of this paper is to verify the feministic meaning of bloomer costume used in movie, 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」. The bloomer costume was anti-fashion in crinoline period, when women was normally not allowed to put on trousers. To achieve the purpose, I used content analysis to obtain meanings from existing literature and video tapes(including, slides and pictures). Bloomer costume, introduced by Mrs. Amelia Bloomer at 1850s, is an anti­fashion to express women's right to wear trousers that were exclusively used by men since the medieval age. In this sense, bloomer costume itself is a costume expressing values of women's emancipation movement. In 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」, heroine, Lucinda, with bloomer costume is described as a woman who has strong motivation toward work, who actively looks for a man she loves, and who has free­will to involve herself in what she wants, even gambling. This is not surprising in a sense that Lucinda's bloomer costumes itself signifies the meanings of feminism. I found that bloomer costume was well described in the movie from the historical point of view. But some details, including type of trousers, were expressed without strict historical evidence. Overall, it is certain that 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」, with a heroine wearing bloomer costume was a big step towards women's emancipation in movies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.176-186
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to reconstruct upper class women's costume of 'Mongol-pung' and 'Goryeo-yang' in a civilization-exchanged period between Mongolia and Korea, for making movie or soap opera costume and historical animation. 'Mongol-pung' was a cultural influence from Mogolia to Korea. For example, sleeveless bi-gap(比甲) and half-sleeved dap-ho(搭忽) were put on by many women at that time. On the basis of old literature, I suggest a 'Mongol-pung' costume as a set of seeran-chulrik(膝欄 terlig), em-broidered bigap, dapho of meat-red color for women. 'Goryeo-yang' was a cultural influence from Korea to Mongolia. Due to old poem of Yuan, 'Short outer Jacket with square neckline, half sleeves, and clear color(方領過腰半臂)' was a representative of 'Goryeo-yang' in Mongolian royal women's costumes. Many women were dressed in it with short inner jacket and wide skirt. In the case of making soap opera costume, the budget of broadcasting station, appearence of nowaday's actor and actress, similarity between old fabric and modern fabric must be considered altogether.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.64-64
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• 2000

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.59-59
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• 2001