• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.189-202
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• 1997

Movie is one of the most popular culture ac-tivities in modern society and the composite rt of science and art born in the 20th century. Movie became the great source of setting the fashion. Especially movie costume brought into relief and was accepted by the mass. As a movie stimulates imitation psychology and identification of the general public in fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of the movie costume to a modern mass fashion. The times was defined the movies from the early Silent era to the modern Hollywood movie from the late of 1910 to 1990. The way of study were to analyze on the changes and roles of movie costume through documentary records and the influence of set-ting the fashion to the mass fashion and classi-fied it five times-silent era classics neo-classics new look and modern times. The summary of result is as follows, 1, Movie costume affected the dress and the fashion of women is Silent era. That fashion was accelerated by actors' costumes in the mode of 1920. 2. Holloywood movies in the Classics show the essence of the fashion movie costume played a role of a fashion leader and commanded the trend of mass fashion. 3. Practical style was shown because of the war in the Neo-classics. Movie industry was prosperous after the war. But the consequences of the movie costume to the mass fashion were more and more weaken 4. Couture designer's costume had an effect on the mass fashion in the early of New look. But it was behind the fashion for the rise of young fashion. 5. The tastes of the fashion were diversified in Modern times. So the movie fashion was not imitated or popular. The costume of "Pret-a-porter" was used in the movies in the 1980. Spectators became to wear the same style of the actors. The times fashion and movie interacted each other. Movie costume is playing a role of a fashion leader guiding the mass fashion.s fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.103-115
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to provide consumers with practical information for reasonable purchasing by analyzing apparel purchasing behavior. information source use, demographic differences in terms of life style patterns, moreover, to support apparel manufacturers in producing goods and making a plan by developing more effective advertisements and efficient marketing strategy, such as media strategy. This study targeted 832 men and women wearing sports casual wear. Information source is used to analyze the data and MANOVA, ANOVA. Scheffe is employed for post-inspection and demographic bases are based on the frequency of each type. The followings are the conclusions of this study : 1. In case of print media, TV, PC factor, fashion advocates and individuality advocates most frequently used information source. In case of purchasing experience factor, individuality advocates skewed higher frequency than conformity type. and then, in case of observation information use factor, individuality advocates were ranked as the highest and conformity type as the lowest. In case of human information use factor, fashion advocates and individuality advocates showed higher frequency than practical type and conformity type. 2 In case of female, Individuality advocates was ranked as the highest. In case of male, practical type and conformity type were rank as the highest. Fashion advocates ranked as the lowest in any case. 3. Individuality advocates were ranked as the highest among people aged 14 to 16, practical type among 17 to 19, conformity type among 20 to 23, conformity type among over 20. 4. Middle school students tended to be the individuality advocates, high school students the practical type, university students the practical type and the conformity type, and company workers conformity type.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.391-398
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• 2007

Ginkgo leaves, which have been known as medical materials, were selected as new natural dyes in this study, in which it was examined whether they have the function of UV-blocker or not. Cotton, linen & Hanji(Korean traditional paper) were dyed with Ginkgo. Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were selected as mordants. UV-blocking rate of dyed samples was measured after dyeing and mordant treatment. The results of this study are as follows. First, most surface color of dyed samples was yellow except that Hanji mordanted with Cu was yellowish red. Second, dyeing repetition had positive correlations with K/S values of cotton ($r=.\;758^{**}$), linen ($r=.\;500^*$) and Hanji ($r=.\;819^{**}$), because K/S values were increased according to dyeing repetition. Third, solar UV-blocking rates had positive correlations with dyeing repetitions (p<0.01), because UV-blocking rates had increased according to dyeing repetition. Fourth, UV-blocking ability of Hanji was highest among samples, as UV-blocking rates of cotton and linen dyed after 3 dyeing repetition were up to 93%, Hanji's values were up to 98%. Therefore, it was proven that Ginkgo extracts used in this experiment as dyestuff have excellent dyeing ability and high UV-blocking ability. It is hoped that this work will lead to further research to confirm the physiological effects when human wear the clothes made from Hanji.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.165-181
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• 2012

Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.945-958
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• 2009

This study is to examine the factors affecting success of business withhigh accomplishments in customer recognition and financial aspect in the fashion industry. In addition, through survey on consumers and interviews on industry officials who concerned fashion brand, perceived success factors were compared between consumer and industry groups. This study selected a total of 20 brands, which were 5 brands per 4 categories(e.g., women, men, sports and casual wear), with high customer satisfaction and customer loyalty in consumer's perspective and high revenues, revenue growth, and profit rate in 2004 in a financial perspective. The survey on consumer group and interviews on officials in industry were conducted simultaneously. One thousand respondents were obtained from survey on consumers and 40 respondents were obtained from interviews on industry officials. Multiple regression analysis and t-test were used for data analysis via the SPSS 12.0 program. The result of this study was as following. From a consumer perspective, respondents recognized that both consumer satisfaction and brand revenues were positively related to brand factors of consumer, product and marketing. From an industry's perspective, consumer, product and marketing factors affected consumer satisfaction as a brand success factor. In comparison of perception difference in brand success factors between consumer and industry groups, industry group was more likely to concern about the importance of brand success than consumers. In addition, the consumer group perceived the most highly consumer factor as a brand success factor, followed by product and marketing and external environment factors, while industry group did in order of consumer, marketing, product, and external environment factors, which indicated significant difference in perceptions of the two groups. Through this study on consumer satisfaction to improve positive and amicable buying behavior and comparative analysis on difference of perception of consumers and industry on factorsfor financial ability and revenue increase, the foundation for strategy establishment of brand distinction in fashion industry can be provided.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.167-177
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• 2002

This study revolves around the costume of the Naadam festival worn in the opening ceremony. during competition and the costume of the public. their purpose are two fold. First they are to be the main reference for the diverse Mongolian costumes that have been researched. Secondly, they will help us understand better the culture that revolves around Mongolian costumes. The results are as follows : 1) The opening ceremony costume, The opening ceremony starts with a procession of soldiers with 9 flags. The flags are made from the hairs of white horses and they signify peace and tranquility, ever since the beginning of Chinggis Khans time. The costumes resemble a European military uniform 2) The costumes for competition. $\circled1$ Wrestlers' costume comprises of a jacket with sleeves but no front and shorty shorts of red or blue colored silk, a traditional hat and traditional boots. $\circled2$ Archers' costume comprises of their traditional costume, deel, hat and boots. $\circled3$ Horse riders who are usually children wear a comfortable and simple jacket and pants. 3) The costume of the public : The general public that attended the festival were dressed in a western fashion but differ according to different age groups $\circled1$ The costumes of the younger Mongolian : The majority of the men wore traditional costumes that were appropriate to the festival, the women did not as they were more prone to the influence of fads of western cultures and dressed in a more daring fashion. In addition. the children also dressed in a more modem western fashion. $\circled2$ The costumes of the elderly Mongolian : The elderly, oblivious of whatever season it was, were dressed in a more traditional fashion which is the deel.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.230-243
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyse the body sizes of $7{\sim}12$ years elementary school girls and also to categorize KS size dimensions by the detailed information of ages and body shapes. For the study, the data of SizeKorea(2004) was analysed. Height, bust, waist, hip, the ratio of waist to height and hip to height were significant between age groups, but the ratio of bust to height was not. Therefore, the increase of bust size was resulted in growth of bust circumference, instead of bust volume. In the same height group, over 11 year girls had smaller waist, while over 12 year girls had bigger hip. For Grouping girls by ages and body shapes, the ages were divided into 2 groups, under 10 years old and 11 to 12 years old. The body shapes classified into 3 groups 'Stout-shape', 'Middle-shape', and 'slim-shape', by the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. 'Stout-shape' was significantly big at the almost sizes, but 'Middle-shape' was significantly big at only circumferences, not lengths. In addition, drop(the difference between bust and hip) and lower-drop(the difference between waist and hip) were in inverse proportion to the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. It meant the increases of bust-ratio and hip-ratio of 'Stout-shape' were resulted in overweight, rather than female matureness. The distribution of sizes over 0.5% were grouped for grading system and the subtotal percentiles of each group were calculated for industrial data. The groups which covered more than 10% of consumers were 2 to 6 and the 1 or 2 groups for 'Stout-shape' were also observed, so that children's ready-to wear companies could use them efficiently for their own consumer target.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.93-104
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• 2003

This study investigated clothing shopping propensity and consumer awareness of Chinese adult men to provide necessary basic data for effective construction to cope with inroads into Chinese men's wear market. Research subjects were Chinese men in big five city (Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian, Harbin, Guangzhou). Returned 863 questionnaires were analyzed by mean, factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's Multiple Range, regression analysis with SPSS 10.0. Results of this research were as follows: 1. Chinese men's apparel shopping propensity factors were analyzed by four groups, such as fashion toward propensity, consume propensity, brand loyalty propensity, and casual preference propensity. 2. Consume propensity among 4 factors influenced most on consumer buying awareness. Brand loyalty propensity among 4 factors influenced most on consumer brand awareness. Fashion toward propensity influenced most on consumer fashion awareness. 3. According to region, there were significant differences to four grouped apparel shopping propensities. Harbin, Guangzhou were indicated higher fashion toward propensity than other areas. Guangzhou was indicated higher consume propensity than Dalian. Dalian was showed lower brand loyalty propensity than other areas. Beijing was showed higher casual preference propensity than Guangzhou. According to income, there were significant differences to four apparel shopping propensities. Highest income group was showed higher fashion toward propensity than other income. The higher men earned income, the higher brand loyalty propensity. Highest income group was showed lower casual preference propensity than lowest income.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.613-617
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• 2004

The intent of this study was to determine whether different light exposure could modify the clothing behavior in the evening cold environment or not. Nine female subjects volunteered to this study. In a bright light or a dim light condition, light intensity was controlled 3000 lx or 10 lx respectively. Subjects were introduced to wear various kinds of garments whenever they need to feel comfortable as the room temperature began to decrease. The room temperature was lowered from $30^{\circ}C$ to $15^{\circ}C$ for one hour (21:00 h~22:00 h) and maintained at $15^{\circ}C$ for additional one hour (22:00 h~23:00 h). Subjects stayed in chamber from 08:00 to the next day 07:00. Clothing behavior, core temperature, subjective temperature sensation and melatonin secretion were measured. Most subjects put on the clothing more quickly and more thickerly in the bright light rather than in the dim light condition. The fall of core temperature during night was significantly less under the bright light in the late afternoon, suggesting that the set-point of core temperature has been set at a higher level during the evening and the night, being supported by the less amount of melatonin secretion. Thus, it is concluded that the quicker dressing behavior with thicker clothing in the "Bright" condition is advantageous in evening cold exposure, since it enables the core temperature to reach its set-point value more easily.