• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 2008

This study is on encapsulation of a new whitening agent, LA-PEG using solid lipid nanoparticle(SLN) method, one of nanoparticle preparation method. Classical method has high capsulation efficiency for hydrophobic compounds but has demerit of low capsulation efficiency($2{\sim}3%$) for hydrophilic compounds. Purpose of this study is preparation of SLN that has higher skin penetration effect compared with general liposome, and also has higher encapsulation efficiency of hydrophilic compounds. For SLN preparation, coconut oil, macadamia oil, and jojoba oil were used. As a result, SLN preparation using coconut oil(include LA-PEG) has the most high encapsulation efficiency and also has the smallest average particle size(270 nm). SLN prepared with macadamia oil and 1% of Tween 60 has the largest particle size. Base made with coconut oil and 2% of Tween 60 showed the fastest release and base made with macadamia oil and 2% of Tween 20 showed the latest release.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.295-302
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• 2018

In this study, we investigated the biological effects of Alcea rosea L. callus extract for the development of natural cosmetics ingredients. The antioxidant activities of A. rosea L. callus extract was measured through DPPH, ABTS and FRAP assay. As a result, A. rosea L. callus extract were found to have a strong antioxidant ability in a dose dependent manner. In addition, A. rosea L. callus effectively reduced the intracellular oxidative stress induced by AAPH at a concentration of 10 mg/mL. In a tyrosinase activity assay, we found that A. rosea L. callus extract reduced tyrosinase activity by 51% at 10 mg/mL. Based on these results, A. rosea L. callus extract is considered as a promising natural ingredients for cosmetics with antioxidant and whitening functions.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.203-208
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• 2007

To develop a new whitening agent for cosmetics from natural products, Pimpinella brachcarpa was selected for its inhibitory effect on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. Crude ethanolic extract of P. brachycarpa and its four fractions-hexane, ethyl acetate(EtOAc), butanol and aqueous were evaluated for antioxidative effects and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. To elucidate the mechanism of active compounds of P. brachycarpa, we investigated the changes in protein level of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using Western blotting and the changes in mRNA level of tyrosinase using RT-PCR technique. Following UV irradiation, expression of ET-1 in HaCaT keratinocytes was measured by quantitative enzyme immunoassay(EIA) using human ET-1 antibody. Crude ethanolic extract of P. brachycarpa and its four fractions-hexane, EtOAc, butanol and aqueous had free radical scavenging effect by 87.2, 2.5, 97.2, 80.5, 49.8% at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$ and tyrosinase inhibitory effect by 18.3, 15.1, 55.4, 13.1, 0 % at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$. P. brachycarpa EtOAc fraction significantly inhibited melanin production in B16 melanoma cells. Treatment with P. brachycarpa extract for 72 h suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin up to 58 % at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$. Especially, the EtOAc fraction of P. brachycarpa reduced the tyrosinase activity and tyrosinase expression in B16 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. mRNA levels of tyrosinase and TRP-1 were markedly reduced by the EtOAc fraction of P. brachycarpa. Moreover, at the concentrations of $12.5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$ of the fraction, the production of UV-induced ET-1 in HaCaT keratinocytes(24 h after 8 $mJ/cm^2$ UVB irradiation) was reduced about 40%(p<0.05). P. brachycarpa could be used as a new natural skin-whitening agent due to the inhibitory effect of on melanin biosynthesis and endothelin-1 expression.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.343-348
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• 2013

We investigated the inhibitory effects of hesperidin on melanogenesis. To find melanosome transport inhibitor from natural products, we collected the structural information of natural products from Korea Food and Drug Administration (KFDA) and performed pharmacophore-based in silico screening for Rab27A and melanophilin (MLPH). Hesperidin did not inhibit melanin production in B16F10 murine melanoma cells stimulated with ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH), and also did not affect the catalytic activity of tyrosinase. But, hesperidin inhibited melanosome transport in melanocyte and showed skin lightening effect in pigmented reconstructed epidermis model. Therefore, we suggest that hesperidin is a useful inhibitor of melanosome transport and it might be applied to whitening agent.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.559-567
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effect, cellular protective effect and inhibitory effect on tyrosinase of Cosmos bipinnatus extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus flower extract ($11.48\;{\mu}g$/mL) showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC50) than those of leaf and stem extracts ($17.45\;{\mu}g$/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity (OSC50) of Cosmos bipinnatus extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/H2O2 system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus flower extract ($0.56\;{\mu}g$/mL) showed 3 times more excellent ROS scavenging activity than L-ascorbic acid ($1.50\;{\mu}g$/mL). The protective effects of the ethyl acetate fractions of extracts from different parts of Cosmos bipinnatus on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fractions of leaf and stem extract and flower extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($10\sim50\;{\mu}g$/mL). The inhibitory effect of ethyl acetate fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus flower extract ($62.75\;{\mu}g$/mL) on tyrosinase was investigated to assess the whitening efficacy. The ethyl acetate fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus flower extract showed 3.5 times higher tyrosinase inhibitory effect than arbutin ($226.88\;{\mu}g$/mL) known as an effective whitening agent. These results indicate that fractions of Cosmos bipinnatus extracts can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Fractions of Cosmos bipinnatus extracts can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant and whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.159-164
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• 2015

To identify new anti-inflammatory and whitening material, this study investigated the whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of the lyophilized powder from 6 oriental plant extracts (OPE; Citrus junos Tanaka, Mori cortex Radicis, Schisandra chinensis Baillon, Coix lachrymajobi var. mayuen, Angelica gigas NAKAI, and Sophora japonica L.) fermented with Streptococcus thermophilus by assessment of cytotoxicity on human dermal fibroblast, inhibitory effect of nitric oxide (NO) prodction, tyrosinase activity and melanin formation. The OPE was fermented with Streptococcus thermophilus at $37^{\circ}C$ for 2 days and the lyophilized powder was manufactured by freezing-dryer. OPE didn't show cytotoxicity at concentration of $500{\mu}g/mL$ using a cytopathic effect reduction method. OPE also exhibited inhibitory effect on nitric oxide (NO) prodction by Griess reagent system. Furthermore, OPE showed inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity with dose dependent manner, and exhibited significant inhibition of melanin formation by measurement of melanin from culture media (p < 0.05). From these results, 6 OPE extracts showed anti-inflammatory and whitening effect and may be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.21-26
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify the whitening effect of Androsace umbellata extract. To discover the anti-pigmentation effective, we investigated Androsace umbellata extract on tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibition. As results, it reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin contents in B16F1 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner with decreased to about 32% at a concentration of $25{\mu}g/mL$. To reveal how it works in inner-cellular level, we performed Western blot method. We found out that it also inhibited the protein expression in tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1), and microphthalmia associated transcription factor (MITF) in melanocytes. Therefore, we successfully identified the whitening effect of Androsace umbellata extract, and this finding suggested that Androsace umbellata extract is a considerable potent cosmetics ingredient for whitening. Based on this, we anticipated further researches about Androsace umbellata extract for gene levels and additional mechanisms to develop not only for functional cosmetics but for medicines or healthcare food.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.251-270
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• 2003

Cosmetics have had only simple efficacy such as cleansing, beautification, and so on. The latest development tendency for cosmetics turned to make goods that is effective and efficacious for whitening, anti-wrinkle, etc., due to various wants of consumers, development of relative technical, etc. According to this stream, Korea Cosmetics Law has been enacted by the Notification of the Korea Food and Drug Administration in 2000. The establishment of Korea Cosmetics industry and opened regular 'Cosmeceuticals Time'. Since the Korea Cosmetics Law took effect on July 2000, the cosmeceuticals system has settled down according to its lights. This research studied how women consumers were understanding the cosmeceuticals system focused on their life style. This study is considered to offer a basic information about consumer's type and to be a groundwork data for working out a marketing strategy about the subdivision of cosmeceuticals market.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 2016

This research was carried out to identify the whitening effect of Banana leaf extract. B16F10 cells were used to measure cell viability, mRNA expression, and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay from B16F10 cell. We also carried out clinical test of the cream product containing banana leaf extract. In this study, we elucidated the effects of banana leaf extract on TRP1 / TRP2 / Tyr mRNA expression and tyrosinase activity inhibition. Quantitative real-time PCR showed that banana leaf extract decreased mRNA level of TRP1, TRP2 and Tyr gene and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay also revealed that banana leaf extract 65% decreased melanin production in B16F10 cell. Banana leaf extract cream can whiten the skin darkness induced by ultraviolet. Therefore, we successfully identified the whitening effect of banana leaf extract, and this finding suggested the banana leaf extract is a considerable potent cosmetic ingredient for skin whitening. Based on this, we anticipated further researches about banana leaf extract for mechanism to develop not only cosmetics but healthcare food or medicines.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.123-128
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• 2004

Numerous novel ingredients have been introduced for the higher functionality of whitening cosmetics. Through the preliminary research, we have found Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root have high whitening efficacy. But they are insoluble. Moreover the discoloration of and decrease in content take place when they are exposed to light, heat or oxygen. From Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root, efficacious ingredients were ethanol-extracted by heating to 75∼85$^{\circ}C$ for 6∼8 h. These extracts have the inhibitory activity of tyrosinase and B16 melanin formation, thus enhancing whitening effect. We made liposomes using propylene glycol (PG)/hydrogenated lecithin/middle chain triglycerides (MCT)/glycerin/water and microfuidizer to stabilize extracts. The stability against heat and light was enhanced by 3∼5 times compared with untreated extracts. Particle size analyzer, freeze fracture transmission electron microscopy (FF-TEM), chromameter and HPLC are used for the analysis.