• Title/Summary/Keyword: whitening cosmetics

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Preparation and Evaluation of Poly(methylmethacrylate-co-trimethoxysilylpropylmethacrylate) Spheres Containing Whitening and Anti-wrinkle Agents (미백 및 주름개선 성분을 함유하는 Poly(methylmethacrylate-co-trimethoxysilylpropylmethacrylate) 구의 제조와 평가)

  • Jung, Taek-Kyu;Lim, Mi-Sun;Kim, Young-Back;Yoon, Kyung-Sup
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.32 no.1 s.55
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    • pp.35-44
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    • 2006
  • Recently, encapsulation studies have been tarried out to protect active agents using shell materials such as polymers, lipids, inorganic materials and the other protective materials. We have prepared copolymers of methylmethacrylate (MMA) and trimethoxysilylpropylmethacrylate (TMPMA), and the copolymers as shell materials were used for encapsulating active agents. Poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) spheres were very efficient for encapsulating active agents such as vitamin derivatives (such as retinol, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) and oil soluble licorice extract etc. Mean diameters of poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) core-shell spheres containing active agents varied between about 0.1 to $10{\mu}m$ according to the experimental conditions. The loading amount of encapsulating active agents was 15 to 25% (w/w) and the loading yield was above 90%. The stability of active agents in poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) core-shell spheres prepared with an UV absorbing precursor increased by 25% compared with that of active agents in spheres prepared without an UV absorbing precursor.

Effect of Medicinal Herb Prepared through Traditional Antidiabetic Prescription on α-Glucosidase Activity and Evaluation Method for Anti-Melanogenesis Agents Using α-Glucosidase Activity (당뇨 처방에 근거한 생약재의 α-Glucosidase 활성 저해 효과 및 이를 활용한 미백 소재 평가법)

  • Kim, Mi Jin;Im, Kyung Ran;Yoon, Kyung-Sup
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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    • v.44 no.7
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    • pp.993-999
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    • 2015
  • For the purpose of investigating the in vitro antidiabetic activity of a medicinal herb and herb mixture extracts prepared through traditional antidiabetic prescription, this study examined ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibitory activity. Tyrosinase, a type I membrane glycoprotein, is synthesized and glycosylated in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) and Golgi. The enzyme is subsequently transported to melanosomes, where it participates in melanogenesis. Previous studies showed that disruption of early ER N-glycan processing by an ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibitor suppresses tyrosinase enzymatic activity and melanogenesis. According to the results, most oriental medicinal herbal extracts were stronger than acarbose and N-butyldeoxynojirimycin, known as an ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibitor. Interestingly, ethyl acetate layer of enzyme hydrolyzed Cheongsimyeonjaeum had an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis in B16F1 cells, although it did not inhibit tyrosinase activity directly. Together, ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibition activity could be used to evaluate anti-melanogenesis, although cross-checking with melanin inhibitory assay is recommended.

Efficacy Evaluation of Anti-wrinkle Products in Japan

  • Masaki Hitoshi
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.29 no.2 s.43
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    • pp.67-77
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    • 2003
  • Two categories of cosmetic products, cosmetics and quasi-drugs, have been established by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare (MHLW) in Japan. Japanese pharmaceutical law has defined that products categorized as cosmetics do not exhibit any effects on human skin. In fact, cosmetic products are not permitted to claim any efficacy. On the other hand, products in the quasi-drug category can claim several efficacies such as anti-inflammatory effects, whitening/lightning effects, hair growth effects and so on. Unfortunately, the Japanese MHLW has not yet approved the efficacy of anti-aging/anti-wrinkle effects as a claim point. However, the population is aging, and the demand for anti-aging/anti-wrinkle products is increasing year by year. Japanese cosmetic companies have proposed to the MHLW that anti-aging/anti-wrinkle agents be approved as a claim concept of a quasi-drug. However, unified evaluation methods for anti-aging/anti-wrinkle effects have not been established. Currently, each company evaluates the efficacy of products/materials using their own original methods. Thus, to request approval of the MHLW, the establishment of a unified evaluation method is needed. Consequently, the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) has established a task force to develop guidelines for evaluating anti-wrinkle effects in 1998. In conclusion, the JCIA would like to adopt visual and image analysis scales to evaluate the anti-wrinkle effects objectively. Generally, wrinkles are roughly classified into three groups as fine wrinkles, linear deep wrinkles and crow's feet. However, academic societies of dermatology or cosmetics have not yet established a definition of wrinkles in Japan. Thus, in advance of setting up an evaluation method, the definition of wrinkles f3r evaluation must be decided. Wrinkles are defined by the task force of the JCIA as follows; furrows that people can recognize visually and that appear on the forehead, the corners of the eyes and the backs of the neck with aging. In addition, furrows are emphasized by exposure to solar light and by dry conditions. Visual evaluation is the most sensitive method and can be applied to most types of wrinkles. However, visual evaluation is hard to express digitally as results. Besides, in the case of image analysis, comparisons of data obtained from distinct examinations can not be done, because data from image analysis are relative values. Thus, to enhance the reliability of the evaluations, the adoption of an objective scale was required. The principle of the evaluation method is to analyze images taken from silicone replicas of wrinkle areas using several parameters, such as the proportion of the wrinkle $area({\%})$, the mean depth of the wrinkles (mm), the mean depth of the deepest wrinkle (m) and the deepest point on the deepest wrinkle. Lights are shown on the skin replica from an orthogonal direction of the main orientation of the wrinkle, and the resulting shadow images are quantified by the image analysis method. To increase the precision of the data or to allow comparisons of independent examinations, a scale with furrows of several depths, 200, 400, 600, 800, and $1000{\mu}m$, is adapted in the evaluation system. I will explain the guidelines established by the JCIA in the presentation.

A Study on the Anti-wrinkle Properties of Cosmetics Containing Essential Oil from Chrysanthemum boreale MAKINO (산국 에센셜오일을 함유한 화장품의 주름개선 임상효능에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, In Ho;Hwang, Dae Il;Kim, Do Yoon;Kim, Ha Bin;Lee, Hwan Myung
    • Journal of Life Science
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.442-446
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    • 2019
  • We recently reported the characteristics of Chrysanthemum boreale MAKINO essential oil (CBMEO) at different harvesting stages and its in vitro antioxidant, whitening, skin regeneration, and antiwrinkle properties. In the present study, we investigated the effectiveness of cosmetic creams containing 0.1% of CBMEO in terms of wrinkle reduction and safety. The participants were 22 women aged 42 to 60 y with natural wrinkles. All the participants applied the CBMEO-containing cream to the eye area for 8 weeks. Visual observations of the skin by a dermatologist were used to assess the safety of the product, and improvements in skin wrinkles (roughness) were analyzed using a skin visiometer. Neither the CBMEO-containing cream nor the placebo caused abnormal reactions, such as erythema or allergies, during the test period. The CBMEO-containing cream-exposed test regions showed a greater reduction in the roughness index as compared with those of the placebo-exposed control regions. The R1, R2, and R3 indices showed a statistically significant decrease in the test regions as compared with the placebo control regions after using the cream for 2 weeks (p<0.05). Therefore, this study demonstrated that CBMEO-containing cosmetics are safe for human use and that they have skin wrinkle improvement properties. In the future, CBMEO may be a promising product for use in the development of functional anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

A study on the development of hydrocortisone certified reference material in cosmetic cream using isotope dilution-mass spectrometry (동위원소희석-질량분석법을 이용한 화장품 크림 중 히드로코르티손 인증표준물질 개발 연구)

  • Chae-Hong Lee;Ji-Sun Huh;Eun-Ji Jeong;Hyun-Ah Kim;Min-Young Eom
    • Analytical Science and Technology
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    • v.37 no.3
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    • pp.166-173
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    • 2024
  • Steroids have a temporary skin improvement and whitening effect by controlling vasodilation, but they also cause side effects when used for a long time. Therefore, steroids were designated and managed as raw materials that cannot be used in cosmetics in Korea. However, steroids are continuously being detected in cosmetics, causing social issues. In this study, we developed a certified reference material (CRM) for the determination of steroids such as hydrocortisone in cosmetics. A cream-type cosmetic CRM was manufactured and subsequently certified following the guidelines outlined in ISO Guide 35. Homogeneity, short-term stability, and long-term stability were evaluated using isotope dilution mass spectrometry (ID-MS). The certified values were determined by using NIST's primary reference material to ensure traceability. From now on, we intend to supply the certified reference material as a cosmetic CRM to national and international companies, as well as research institutes after certification as certified reference material from KOLAS and registering on COMAR.

Cellular Antioxidant Activity and Whitening Effects of Dendropanax morbifera Leaf Extracts (황칠나무 잎 추출물의 세포 항산화 활성과 미백활성 측정)

  • Park, Su Ah;Park, Jun;Park, Chan Il;Jie, Young Jong;Hwang, Yun Chan;Kim, Yong Hyun;Jeon, So Ha;Lee, Hye Mi;Ha, Ji Hoon;Kim, Kyeong Jin;Park, Soo Nam
    • Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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    • v.41 no.4
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    • pp.407-415
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    • 2013
  • In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activities on HaCaT and the whitening effects on B16F1 melanoma cells of Dendropanax morbifera leaf extract. In an antioxidative activity assay using HaCaT cells, the ethyl acetate ($50{\mu}g/ml$) and aglycone fractions ($25{\mu}g/ml$) of the D. morbifera leaf extract didn't exhibit any characteristics of cytotoxicity. When HaCaT cells were exposed to a single large dose ($800mJ/cm^2$) of UVB, the extracts protected the cells against UVB radiation. When HaCaT cells were treated with 10 mM $H_2O_2$ and $4{\mu}M$ rose bengal, the ethyl acetate ($6.25{\sim}50{\mu}g/ml$) and aglycone ($6.25{\sim}25{\mu}g/ml$) fractions protected the cells against oxidative damage in a concentration dependent manner. When the whitening effects of D. morbifera leaf extract were tested in melanoma B16/F1 cells treated with the a-melanocyte stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH), the extracts inhibited ${\alpha}$-MSH-stimulated intra/extracellular melanogenesis in a concentration dependent manner. The inhibitory effects of the ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions of D. morbifera leaf extract were 21% and 44% at $25{\mu}g/ml$, respectively. Both are more effective than arbutin (15% at $25{\mu}g/ml$) which is known as a whitening agent. These results indicate that fractions of the D. morbifera leaf can function as cell protectants and natural antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skins exposed to UV radiation by quenching and/or scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protecting cells against ROS. In addition, fractions of the D. morbifera leaf can be applied to new whitening cosmetics because of their inhibitory effects on ${\alpha}$-MSH stimulated melanogenesis in B16F1 melanoma cells.

New Functional Properties of Passion Fruit Extract on Skin (패션 프룻 추출물이 피부에 미치는 새로운 기능적 효과)

  • Jeong, Mi Suk;Kim, Soon-Rae;Han, Chang Woo;Kim, Hyeon Jin;Jang, Se Bok
    • Journal of Life Science
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    • v.32 no.2
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    • pp.101-107
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    • 2022
  • In this research, the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiaging, and skin whitening properties of pulp and seed extracts of passion fruit were studied. The result of the primary skin irritation test using a skin-attached patch determined the skin irritation index to be 0.00 for the passion fruit extract. In addition, RAW 264.7 macrophages produce NO by stimulation of lipopolysaccharides, and the application of extracts to this resulted in significantly lower NOs, confirming the excellent anti-inflammatory properties of passion fruit extracts. The 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl test further confirmed that the passion fruit extract exhibits a good 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate radical scavenging ability of 5.11% and strong antioxidant properties. The presence of collagen type I in the skin is a measure of aging and various skin diseases. The results obtained from the analysis of the activity of human procollagen I alpha 1 confirmed that the passion fruit extract reduces the synthesis of procollagen. In addition, the skin whitening property of the passion fruit extract was confirmed by the melanin inhibition test, and a sample was obtained that contained more than 2% of arbutin, a whitening agent approved by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, which is generally present in the form of a white powder and is used as a functional ingredient. This confirms that the whitening efficacy of the passion fruit extract obtained from nature contributes to the development of functional raw materials for cosmetics and food.

Evaluation for the flowers of compositae plants as whitening cosmetics functionality (국화과 꽃의 미백 화장품 기능성 검색)

  • Lee, Yeong-Geun;Lee, Junghoon;Lee, Na-Yeong;Kim, Nam-Kyun;Jung, Da-Won;Wang, Weiyi;Kim, Yoosung;Kim, Hyoung-Geun;Nguyen, Thi Nhan;Park, Haseung;Baek, Nam-In
    • Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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    • v.60 no.1
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    • pp.5-11
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    • 2017
  • 18 flowers of Compositae family were collected and extracted in aqueous methanol (MeOH). The concentrated extract was partitioned into n-hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), n-BuOH, and water fractions. The extract and fractions were evaluated for total phenolics, total flavonoids, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, and tyrosinase inhibition activity. n-Hexane and EtOAc fractions of Aster yomena, n-hexane fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus White, n-hexane and EtOAc fractions of C. bipinnatus Pink showed high total phenolics. And EtOAc fractions of A. yomena, C. bipinnatus White, C. bipinnatus Red, C. morifolium Froggy, and C. morifolium Himaya exhibited high total flavonoids. EtOAc fractions of A. yomena, C. bipinnatus White, C. bipinnatus Pink, C. morifolium Yellowmable, and MeOH extract of C. morifolium Rosa significantly scavenged DPPH radical. EtOAc fractions of C. chinensis, C. bipinnatus White, C. bipinnatus Red, C. morifolium Himaya, and C. morifolium Hongsim highly inhibited the tyrosinase activity. A. yomena, C. bipinnatus White, C. bipinnatus Pink, C. bipinnatus Red and C. morifolium Himaya are evaluated as good source for whitening cosmetics materials.

Comparison of Biological Activity between Nelumbo nucifera G. Extracts and Cosmetics Adding Nelumbo nucifera G. (백련(Nelumbo nucifera G.) 추출물 및 화장품에 첨가 시 생리활성 비교)

  • Lee, Jin-Young;Yu, Mi-Ra;An, Bong-Jeun
    • Journal of Life Science
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    • v.20 no.8
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    • pp.1241-1248
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    • 2010
  • The solvent extracts of Nelumbo nucifera G. were investigated for antioxidant activities, whitening and anti-wrinkle effects to apply as a functional ingredient in cosmetic products. For their industrial application, the cosmetic products were also prepared with advanced formulation techniques such as W/O/W multiple emulsion. Total phenolic and flavonoids contents increased in Nelumbo nucifera G.-Leaf (NN-L). The electron donating ability of Nelumbo nucifera G.-Flower (NN-F) or Nelumbo nucifera G.-Leaf (NN-L) extracts were above 85% at a concentration of 500 ppm. The superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of Nelumbo nucifera G. (NN-L) extracts was about 60% at a concentration of 1,000 ppm. The xanthine oxidase inhibitory effect of NN-L extract was higher than that of NN-F and NN-S extracts. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin-whitening, was 36% in NN-F at 1,000 ppm. For anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity of NN-L was about 30% at 1,000 ppm. The results of stability test showed that W/O/W multiple emulsion (ME) containing Nelumbo nucifera G. extracts. The electron donating ability of the ME containing NN-F and NN-L were about 60% at a concentration of 100 ppm. The superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of the ME containing NN-L was 30% at 1,000 ppm. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin-whitening, was 34% in the ME containing NN-F at 1,000 ppm. In anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity of the ME containing NN-L was about 55% at 1,000 ppm.

Antioxidant Activity of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don Extracts and Its Skin Hydration Effect Measure (만병초 추출물의 항산화활성과 보습효과 측정)

  • Park, Jung-Ok;Lim, Gyu-Nam;Park, Su-Nam
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.36 no.2
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    • pp.157-165
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    • 2010
  • In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 $g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and 8.9 $g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.