• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.15-26
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• 2021

Peptides are short chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds. They are widely used as effective and biocompatible active ingredients in cosmetic industry. In this study, we developed novel peptide mixture and identified its anti-pigmentation effect on melanocytes and keratinocytes. Our results revealed that peptide mixture inhibited melanosome biogenesis through the regulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, a key factor of melanogenesis in melanocytes. And we observed that peptide mixture inhibited melanosome uptake through the reduction of protease-activated receptor 2, a phagocytosis-related receptor in keratinocytes. Furthermore, peptide mixture activated autophagy system resulting in degradation of transferred melanosomes in keratinocytes. The anti-pigmentation effect of multi-targeting peptide mixture was assessed in a human skin equivalent model (MelanoDerm). Melanin contents in epidermal layer were significantly decreased by topical treatment of peptide mixture, suggesting that it can be applied as a novel cosmetics material having a whitening function.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.3 s.58
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• pp.153-160
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• 2006

We synthesized 2',4'-dimethoxyflavone and investigated the effects on melanogenesis. To determine the effects as a whitening agent, various in uitro tests were performed such as free radical scavenging activity, melanin assay, tyrosinase activity and expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 (western blot and RT-PCR) in Bl6 melanoma cells. 2',4'-Dimethoxyflavone showed neither free radical scavenging activities against 1,1- diphenyl -2-picrylhydrazvl (DPPH) radical and inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity, 2',4'-dimethoxyflavone significantly inhibited melanin production in B16 melanoma cells. 2',4'-Dimethoxyflavone treatment (48h) suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin up to 27% at $5{\mu}g/mL$ and reduced tyrosinase activity up to 20% at $5{\mu}g/mL$ in B16 melanoma cells. 2',4'-Dimethoxyflavone was also able to significantly inhibit tyrosinase and TRP-1 expression in protein and mRNA level. These results suggest that 2',4'-dimethoxyflavone inhibits melanin biosynthesis at the level of enzyme activity and protein mRNA expression B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, 2',4'-dimethoxyflavone may be useful as a new whitening agent in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.115-128
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• 2023

The fruit of Vaccinum oldhami was separated and purified to obtain the compounds chlorogenic acid (CA), quercetin (QT), and quercitrin (QR). The electron-donating abilities of CA, QT, and QR at 1,000 ㎍/ml were 91.9%, 89.9%, and 77.4%, respectively QT and QR showed 99.5% and 91.4% ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability at a 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration, respectively, and CA showed a 95% ability or higher at 100 ㎍/ml. Regarding tyrosinase inhibitory activity, CA, QT, and QR exhibited 29.5%, 34.7%, and 23.7% efficacy, respectively, at 1,000 ㎍/ml. Regarding the cell viability for melanoma cells (B16F10) assessed through MTT assay, CA, QT, and QR showed cell a viability of 80% or more at 100 ㎍/ml. To measure the deterrent of protein expression, CA affected TRP-1 and TRP-2 in accordance with increases in concentration. The protein expression inhibition rate of QT was excellent for TRP-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase. CA was confirmed to have an excellent mRNA expression inhibitory effect against MITF, and the amount of mRNA expression of TRP-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase decreased with an increase in the CA concentration. As the concentration of QT increased, the mRNA expression of MITF, TRP-2, and tyrosinase decreased. QR decreased the amount of mRNA as the QR concentration increased. The excellent antioxidant and whitening effects of CA, QT, and QR were thus confirmed.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.222-231
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• 2022

This study aimed to confirm the possibility of being used as a cosmetic material material through the verification of the whitening and anti-inflammatory activities of an ethyl acetate fraction from Glechoma hederacea var. longituba (GHEA). The observed electron donating and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging abilities of GHEA were 89.6% and 88.7%, respectively, at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration, with a tyrosinase inhibitory effect of 22.3% at the same concentration. For cell viability, a rate of 80% or more was observed in all concentrations that treated GHEA on melanoma and macrophage cells. Protein and mRNA expression inhibition was measured by Western blot and RT-PCR for 25, 50, and 100 ㎍/ ml concentrations, and it was confirmed that expression decreases in a concentration-dependent manner as GHEA concentration increases. The inhibition of the whitening-related factors MITF and TRP-2 were superior following GHEA treatment than those of the control group treated with kojic acid of 100 ㎍/ml concentration. For tyrosinase, the lowest mRNA expression rate was 29.1% at 100 ㎍/ml which confirmed excellent inhibition. In analyzing the effects of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α on protein and mRNA expression, IL-6 and TNF-α showed high protein and mRNA inhibition compared to a vitamin C control group. Based on these experimental results, GHEA could be applied as a natural cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.560-570
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• 2000

The purposes of this study were to segment the cosmeceuticals market based on consumer usage behavior and to develop a profile of each segment using appearance-related variables, purchase attributes, purchase behavior and demographics. A total of 518 responses collected from a questionnaire survey to female consumers was analyzed. Cluster analysis on usage behavior of cosmeceutical products identified three groups including: Anti-aging/Whitening/Slimming product users (22% ); Pore-control product users(20%); and Minimum users(57%). MANOVA, ANOVA and Chi-square analysis revealed significant differences among the three groups on 2 appearance-related variables, 3 purchase attribute factors, 4 purchase behaviors, and 2 demographic characteristics. Based on the results, the study developed a profile of each segment and provided marketing implications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.115-121
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• 1997

To identify inhibitors of melanogenesis, we compared the effects of 5 compounds on mushroom tyrosinase, human melanocytic tyrosinase activity and melanin content. The cytotoxicyty of the components were also tested on cultured human melanoctes. Kojic acid showed marked inhibitory effect both on mushroom and human tyrosinase activity. This action of kijic acid is stronger than that of ascorbic acid. Arbutin inhibited human tyrosinase activity of cultured melanocytes although it had slightly inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase activity. Azelaic acid had no effect on human tyrosinase activity. Melanin production was inhibited significantly by kojic acid and tranexamic acid. MTT assay showed that all of the compounds were non-cytotoxic to melanocytes at the concentrations tested. These results suggest that the effect of kojic acid on cultured meanocytes involve inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis without affection the cell number.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.2 s.13
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• pp.23-30
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• 2007

As elderly population has been increasing, our society has to be prepared the social system. Especially female elderly increasing means that market will change and business model should also change. Every women want to be beautiful and looks young and as women get aged, women eager to be younger and beautiful more. The purposes of this study were to find out how was represented in cosmetic market ad and how elderly customers has been changed. In developed society, baby boomer has been increased, and their power of purchase also has been increased in cosmetic market. In our society, cosmetic market has been developing as customer's demand and whitening focused cosmetics has been increasing especially. Elderly skin need more moisture focused cosmetics and for developing the elderly cosmetic market in Korea, we need more research about korean elderly women's social psychological character and customer's character.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.9-12
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• 2000

Certain types of anti-inflammatory components and whitening components were in practical use as the active ingredients of quasi drugs expected to display their pharmacological actions. However, only twenty years at most have past since the introduction of cosmetics that not only physically change the condition of the surface of the skin, but also promote skin homeostasis from by acting on the physiological mechanisms of the skin. Since then, much effort hasa been made to find new active ingredients suitable for full-scale development, and the term "cosmeceutical" has often been coined to describe cosmetics containing pharmacologically active components. In this report, the prospects of cosmeceuticals will be discussed on the basis of a review of the history of the development of current skin-care products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2017

EtOAc fractions of Magnolia obovata (M. obovata) Bark extracts were studied for the potential ingredient as a safe and effective whitening cosmetic material. The concentration of active substances honokiol was determined by HPLC. In vitro, the fractions reduced the extracellular and intracellular melanin contents in B16F10 cells in dose dependently and inhibited extracellular melanin secretion ($IC_{50}=11.05{\mu}g/mL$). The $12.5{\mu}g/mL$ treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 60% to the amount of extracullular melanin. Also, the $12.5{\mu}g/mL$ treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 59% to the amount of intracullular melanin ($IC_{50}=10.85{\mu}g/mL$). The $IC_{50}$ value of ${\alpha}-arbutin$ used as a positive control was $59.99{\mu}g/mL$. So, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed whitening effect when compared with the non-treatment group. In case of in vivo study, Cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts was approved by Ethics committee of KDRI (IRB number: KDRI-IRB-1537). As a result in progress for skin sensitization as well as assessment of skin irritation through repeated patch test, skin allergens was identified as non sensitizing agents. Also, cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed significant topical whitening effect and reliable skin safety when compared with the non-treatment group. In conclusion, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts may be a useful cosmetic ingredient for effective skin whitening.