• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.732-740
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to discuss Joseon dynastyis first perspective on the Western-style Court Costume which was newly introduced to Joseon through the problems receiving the credential that Japan had sent in new style. For this study, the records of Joseon and Japan at that period have been analyzed. The followings are the results of this research; First, a critical argument on the Western-style Court Costume occurred just before the Port Opening because whether wearing a western costume was the key factor in Joseon dynastyis receiving the credential that Japan had send in new style. Second, Japan received western costume as its domestic courtesy system by establishing the Court Costume of Civil servants in 1872 and consequently Japan established new ceremony procedure of western-style bow in 1875. Third, Joseon dynasty officially opposed to the Western-style Court Costume when Japan sent the credential, because the western costume selected by Japan had beenregarded as that of western barbarian at that time in Joseon. Accordingly, it seems reasonable that before the introduction of western costume into Joseon dynasty, an open-door policy for the West had been a prior settlement for Joseon dynasty regardless of the details of Western-style Court Costume. And also, the pride of civilization of Joseon dynasty, which has been used to express Joseon dynastyis identity as Joseon-centrism, had to be converted before the open-door policy. Ultimately, it could be inferred that the reception of the Western-style Court Costume had been raised as the political and diplomatic problems in the circumstances when the submissive relationship in the traditional Eastern- Asia had been forced to be converted to modern sovereign international relationship.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.50-60
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• 2001

This study is to clarify the concept of \"Americanization\" among korean modern clothing culture by investigating magazines from 1920s to 1930s. The Americanization of modern clothing culture can be divided to New fashion, Sports-wear, and Cloth improvement. 1. New fashion, Western culture was the main stream of new fashion, and modern boys and girls could bear cultural privileged consciousness. And the spread of modern culture was so fast that exaggerated fashional preference provoked extravagancy and loss of individuality. 2. Sports-wear. Under the rule of Japanese imperialism, initial sports activity was encouraged to regulate colony by principle and order. Through the sports-wear, practicality of clothing, exposure of female body, and the concept of T.P.O.(Time, place, occasion) were introduced. 3. Cloth improvement. The capitalism and modern concept of \"time\" were introduced and promoted maximum productivity. And to increase productivity, imperialist educated conveniency of western clothes and inconveniency of traditional Korean clothes. These could affect Koreans to think themselves a sense of inferiority(uncivilized complex).ncivilized complex).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.97-111
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• 2000

The term Japonism was coined in France where the predilection for Japanese art forms was immediately apparent, influencing Impressionism, Symbolism, Post-Impressionism, and later the Art Nouveau movement, all of which reflect aspects of Japanese art adapted to Western style. The 1968 May Revolution in Paris changed traditional thinking and shifted the center of fashion of the 1970's from haute couture to pret-a porter. At about the same time, having recovered from the destruction of war, Japan started to emerge as a leading economic force. The Japanese clothing designers, who were inspired by their own traditions, began to present their collections in the West. Hanae Mori's dresses with Japanese floral motifs were the first to appear. The West was captivated by the colorfully layered clothing of Kenzo Takada inspired by peasant and working class kimonos. And Issey Miyake was acclaimed for his innovative concepts of ‘one piece of cloth'. In the 1980s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto achieved recognition with their deconstructivist and minimalist approaches to fashion. The clothing proposed by these Japanese designers has transcended not only national and sexual boundaries, but also those of accepted materials in which to work. These designs suggest new possibilities and are unrestricted by preconceived ideas of kimono or of Western clothing. The emergence of Japanese designers as a powerful creative force in the late twentieth century has created a new dimension to the term Japonism in fashion. By integrating the clothing traditions of the West and Japan, while at the same time departing from them, a new international genre of clothing has been created.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1999

This study aimed to give an updated description of general clothing behavior patterns of the Korean elderly women. 430 women over 60 years old residing in Seoul wre surveyed with a questionnaire asking about their daily practices of clothing selection, disposal, recycling, quantity and place of purchase, and their background variables. Data were treated to SPSS for descriptive statistics, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. The result revealed that the wardrobe of the Korean aged women is by now fully oriented toward the western style. The subjects disposed of their clothing mainly because of their body size changes and had elementary fitting problems unsolved. They had clothing recycling experinces and turned out to be inactive clothing consumers with differing shopping places according to the types of clothing items to be purchased. The subjects'age and income level had significant effects on various facets of their clothing behavior.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.127-143
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• 2001

This thesis looks into the characteristics and compares the clothing styles between the Three Kingdom to the Unified Shilla era. The purpose of this study is to see what common themes exists between the foundation of Korean clothing and how it has evolved and through see to what extent the Chinese influence has been to Korean clothing culture. Also by explaining the originality and creativity of Korean clothing, we will be able to make clear the status of Korean culture. These findings include the following; 1. The Korean strait line Gik-ryong Kyo-im can also be found at the Gochang region in the west. 2. The Ban-ryong-ui, worn by the aristocrats of the Three kingdom and Unified Shilla era, began to appear from the nobles from the Nam-Buk cho(South-north era). This combined with a Bokdu(headwear) became a part of casual dress wear. 3. Go(pants) became a traditional part of clothing for Unified Shilla and the west. 4. Ban-bi and Bae-dang, all forms of Bansu-ui ( short sleeve), came from Chinas Kucha and Hotan and came to Korea. 5. Chinas Pae-baek and Pae-za (Shawl) which is the same as Unified Shillas Peo was also to be found to have come from the west. 6. The way a different color line was added to clothing both can be found in Korean and western clothing. Similarities to material used are; First, expensive wool was used and mostly originated from the west. From far away Rome came the O-saek-gae (Five-color wool). Secondly, Kong-gak me (peacock feather) and Bi-chi mo were all originated from the west. Third, Sil-sil is stated in the Sam-kuk Sa-ki (Three Kingdom records) as being prohibited to be worn by Jin-gol women (Highest nobility during Shilla era) as headwear or comb (pin) or as a comb(pin) for yuk-doo poom ( 6th class nobility) women. Suggesting that it existed and other sources tell us that it came from Tashkent region of Russia and was a jewelry of some sort. From what we have seen above, we can see the similarities between Korean and western clothing cultures and that these interactions not only occurred with China but with many other nations. We can see that our ancestors were creative and original that when importing foreign cultures that they transformed them into a Korean style. That these foreign cultures were transformed into our own style is good evidence to these facts.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.606-616
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the preferred clothing images and clothing behaviors on personality types. Personality types were applied using Myers-Briggs Type Indicator(MBTI). Clothing image preferences were measured using 28 adjectives of 5-point scales. The data were collected from 101 female using questionnaire to prefer on clothing images, consumer information sources and retail store types. The data analysed with crosstab analysis, t-test, MDS. Extroversion and Introversion had significant difference in casual, sporty, fresh, youthful, western, and simple more than introversion types. Sensing and intuition had significant difference in feminine and strong image. Sensing types were significantly evaluated feminine style more than intuition types. Thinking types were significantly evaluated simple image more than feeling types. Judging and perceiving had significant difference in graceful, lofty, and strong image. Judging types were significantly evaluated graceful and lofty style more than perceiving types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.67-78
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• 2012

This study considered and analyzed the influence of changed clothing silhouettes on the textile patterns by investigating the changes of geometry patterns in response to the changes of western women's apparel silhouette in the 1960s. The period scope of research was limited to the 1960s, and the research object was set as the geometry patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion. The researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1960s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. For the western women's apparel in 1960s, some active, simple styles were popular under the social atmosphere when more women actively entered the society. Influenced by popular art trends at that time, the silhouette was expressed in the geometry pattern among many textile patterns. The geometry pattern either appeared as a regularly overall repeating geometry pattern and the regularly partial repeating geometry pattern. The regularly overall repeating geometry pattern arranged the straight lines in the same interval. But the regularly partial repeating geometry pattern was arranged without order to emphasize the motif in some parts of clothing or to give some ornament effect, or was arranged asymmetrically.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.80-92
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• 2017

Fashion trend is more than a social phenomenon that multitudes of people accept as popular styles of clothing. The purpose of this study was to understand the influence of fashion trend over time and distance. Geographically thousands of miles apart, the U.S. has strongly influenced fashion in Korea, revealed by references and historic depictions collected from literature and web sites. Results of the study are summarized as five issues: First, emergence of female missionaries from the U.S. American missionaries working in the late Great Korean Empire performed a significant role importing Western culture to Korea. Second, as opportunities of education increased, women studying abroad introduced Western fashion to Koreans when they returned to Korea. They were more open to Western culture than other Koreans and moderately harmonized their Korean sentiment and Western culture, mitigating cultural shock and enabled other Koreans to accept Western culture. Third, the effect of fashionistas on media. Singers working for U.S. armies stationed in Korea and movie stars appearing in Hollywood movies profoundly affected Korean pop culture and fashion trends in Korea. Fourth, following First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy of the U.S. She was an influential figure in those days and a fashion leader as well. Lastly, acceptance of working girl fashion depicted in American television shows. American working girls depicted on American TV shows were highly admired by young Korean women, so the fashion of American working girls became a major fad among young Korean women.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study is intended to examine the modernization of Chinese costumes through historical events, and to analyze the characteristics of the costume modernization process. The modernization of Chinese costumes appears to have begun with the Opium Wars, and the Nanjing Treaty(1842), the Beijing Treaty(1860) and the official residence of western people in Chinese territory. Afterwards, in order to initiate change, the Chinese people themselves implemented the Westernization movement(1861-94), placing an emphasis on the westernization of external elements such as technology and form, but aspects such as costume, deeply saturated in their traditions, do not appear to have changed significantly. Despite self-empowering movements such as these, as western forces diffused deeper into the Chinese mainland, neo-intellectuals formed the axis of a revolutionary movement. A major example can be found in the Xinhai Revolution(1911) revolution, which forbade the binding of feet and shaving of frontal hair and partially implemented western formal dress. Through these factors, the modernization process of Chinese costume demonstrates characteristics of an adherence to traditional dress and partial acceptance of western attire. Through this, we may understand the modern costumes of China, which adhered more to tradition than Japan, which pursued western costumes actively within a similar period, and Korea, which rushed modernization due to Japanese authority.