• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2013

This study tried to get a deeper understanding of the characteristics of raincoats in Joseon by searching through historic records: the Annals of Joseon(朝鮮王朝實錄), personal or official records, paintings, etc. The time range of the research covers the entire period of Joseon. There were two prime types of raincoats: Saui, a cyperus coat, and Yusam(油衫), an oilcloth coat. The study proceeded as follows: 1) Identifying the people who wore the coats as well as the time period, 2) Figuring out the shapes and materials of those raincoats, 3) Postulating the reasons for the upward trend in popularity of a certain type as well as the eventual downward trend. Those research efforts revealed the following: 1) In the early Joseon, from royals to commoners, people wore Saui. But as time passed valuation about Saui might have become degraded. Eventually it became regarded as a farmer's smock in the 19th Century. 2) Yusam might not have been worn in the early Joseon. It was developed and spread after the middle of 17th Century. It was for soldiers and nobles, especially travelers, but by the end of the Joseon period, it was also used by commoners. 3) Saui was made of cyperus, but Yusam was made of oiled paper, cotton or silk. Those shapes were similar to a Western cloak. The analysis of the research findings led to following conclusions: 1) Around the middle of Joseon, people started to wear Yusam after the introduction of a Chinese version of it. 2) Yusam might have become popular in Joseon because of the social and cultural implications. At that time, people had pride in their culture and thought that real experiences and travels were important. 3) As people became fond of Yusam more, then Saui's popularity fell.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.61-79
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• 2013

This study takes a look at the distinct and exclusive culture of Latin America, with a specific focus on Mexico, and attempts to understand its unique cultural identity by comparing, analyzing, and evaluating the characteristics of the Mexican fashion brands, Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social, which are brands that have actively used the Latin American cultural identity in its designs. The research method was as follows: 1) performing literature research with specialty publications and thesis that dealt with the two brands 2) analyzing the contents of various articles from the Internet and interviews related to the brands. Thus, this research attempts to understand the characteristics of the fashion brands that use the cultural traits of Latin America in order to dissect its methods and find a way to apply it so that it can be used in different cultures, and in effect, lead to the advancement of the fashion industries, in general. Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social are two brands that are able to stand out with a distinct identity by applying traditional native Latin American qualities in its products, as well as its products reflecting a respectful and balanced relationship between people and nature. The characteristics of the two brands are as follows: 1) showing the concept of "the coexistence of diversity" by expressing "the old and the new", "simplicity and flash", and "melding of the Western culture via colonialism and traditional cultures of the aboriginals and other diverse native cultures" 2) achieving "the recovery of the human dignity" by protecting the human rights of the native female artisans and building a network for equality 3) pursuing "free naturalism" by balancing the natural provision of nature and man in addition to promoting environmental protection and conservation of goods 4) becoming "the bridge between communication and exchange" by connecting the artisan, the designer and the consumers together, or the producer and the market, as well as the different cultures of markets from diverse countries.

• 정보처리학회논문지B
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• 제11B권6호
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

3차원 의상 모델링과 시뮬레이션은. 디지털 콘텐츠에서 중요한 요소가 되었다. 이를 위한 여러 도구들이 개발되었으나, 고유한 의복을 표현하는 가상 의상의 디자인은 그래픽 디자이너에게 어려운 작업이며 의상에 대한 전문지식을 필요로 한다. 특히, 한복의 경우는 옷감, 재단방식, 착용법 등에서 양복과는 구성학적 차이점을 지니므로 모델링이 더욱 어렵다. 본 연구에서는 한복 제작에 대한 전문성이 없이도 한복을 쉽게 모델링 할 수 있도록 하는 지식 기반 접근법을 제안한다. 특히, 실사 및 가상 옷감의 시각적 유사성 판단 방법에 의해 옷감 소재 특성 규칙베이스를 구축하고, 신체 특성이 다른 캐릭터들의 체형 특성을 반영한 한복 사이즈의 부분별 다단계 조정 방법을 지식베이스 화하였다. 제안된 지식 기반 모델링 방법은 마야의 플러그-인으로서 제작되었고 다양한 신체형에 대한 드레이핑(착용 시뮬레이션) 실험을 통해 적용 가능성을 보였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.105-119
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• 2010

The style of costumes which dancers put on for dancing on a stage reflects the times, culture, and traditionality of movements in dancing. Accordingly, everyday dresses are adopted as the stage costumes in some cases and stage costumes lead the trend in other cases. Furthermore, like stage costumes in other genres, dancing costumes put more emphasis on expressive features in the functions of clothing unlike everyday dresses. In particular, dancing costumes shall sufficiently and delicately express each movement using the costumes as well as rhythms and melodies of music for dance. Ballet which is the representative western dance was derived from the world "Ballare" meaning "dance" in Italian. As shown in the change of word, ballet started in Italy. In Italy taking initiatives for all artistic activities in Europe as leading Renaissance in the 15th century, ballet started as the court dance and favored by French. Then, ballet flourished in France and was developed to the Romantic ballet in the 19th century. During the Renaissance, the early stage of ballet development the dancers put on the dresses which were in fashion at that time on the stage. The dancing costumes added the decorative features suitable for the characteristics of main actors or actresses and contents of dances to the dresses in fashion at relevant times in 17th and 18th century. "Panier", the dancing costume in the 18th century, was sensationally popular among women. As described above, the study on the features of dancing costumes by times not only arranges the costumes in each times but also investigates emotions and artistic and aesthetic values of those who lived in the relevant times. Furthermore, it is the way to experience the height of fantasy and beauty.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2012

Cloths wrapped around the body have been the basis of the dress of people all over the world for centuries. This study is to research detailed modifiable fashion styling methods in history and to give ideas to people such as fashion professionals who are interested in fashion styling so that they can create modifiable fashion styling easily in fashion fields. The characteristics of modifiable fashion styling methods from ancient to middle ages are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is to expose the knots on the surface of the garments, and the knots were mainly located on the upper part of the body. The second method is a wrapping type of the modifiable styling method, which shows a lot of variant simple shapes of cloths. This method helped develop many wrapping methods over time. The third way is the fixed type of the modifiable styling method, and it uses accessories such as fibulae, belts to fix cloths, to create many different styles. The accessories are located on around either the neck or waist. The fourth method is the composite type of the modifiable styling methods mentioned above. This styling method is adapted in robe type clothes which makes the clothes look full of beautiful drapery. This study suggests that simple shapes of cloths can create enormous amount of styling which can be easily adapted and created nowadays.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.93-103
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• 1999

This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.29-40
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• 1992

The aesthetic of traditional Korean costume has been used as one of the design themes in the field of Korean contemporary fashion design for western style clothing. Using the Korean aesthetic comes from the idea that such ethnic beauty could gain an international reputation. The beauty of the Korean costume is rooted in the particular aesthetic consciousness of the Korean people : the aesthetics of nature, personality, the evil's eye. and tradition. From an artistic viewpoint, the formative elements are analyzed into the following categories: form including line and shape, color, pattern, materials and ornaments. The aesthetic elements of the costume are transformed into present fashion design through the formative elements of the fashion ; form including line, color, pattern, materials and ornamentation. To express Korean atmosphere, adapting traditional elements such as, needle cases, hinges of furnitures, closing function of big gate are active, As a conclusion, the actual fashion design of adapting Korean beauty are so confined to the original form of Korean Dress that the results of design are tend towards ethnocentric atmosphere. Therefore, to understand and express traditional Korean beauty in contemporary fashion design, one has to keep in mind the aesthetic of the traditional Korean costume. Then one must develop and pursue one's own methods of adapting Korean beauty. The sophistication and refinement of fashion design could be accomplished only through the deep appreciation of the Korean culture. The second, the sense of International perspective is needed to be understanded and obtaining public sympathy from an international society. The third, Critics and scholars are the most concerned with promoting Korean fashion at an international level. Korean fashion at an international level. Korean fashion design will only mature with the support of scholars and the theoretical understanding they bring with them. The last, public support including government level is needed to enhence the standand of Korea fashion today.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.181-195
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• 2000

This study was conducted from Sep., 1999. to Nov., 1999. It researched approximately 60 specialized manufacturers who had homepages on the Internet. Of the 60 manufacturers, 20 of them were chosen for the study all of whom had relatively were made homepages that were geared towards sales. 1. Daily Hanboks on the homepages were put in an electronic catalog. They were photographed and well described. Each picture could be enlarged when needed. 2. The Hanbok's were made for men, women and children. There were every couple's Hanboks. The Hanboks used natural material, mixed spinning and chemical textile, which was easily kept and washed. It was intended, as clothes for everyday wear Silk was used for formal clothes. 3. The prices ranged from low-middle to high clothing for everyday life is reasonable and street wear and formal dresses are priced high. The color of the dresses are not vibrant, but natural and light. As Hanboks become more in demand, there will be more choices available. 4. As matter of the sizes shows weakness. In general they use the western size system. The purpose of this study is to show the direction that Hanbok manufacturers may take for the internet sales and for being more active to promote the spread of the dress. This research came to the fellowing conclusion. Even though Hanbok manufacturers operate homepages. it seems that they are not well used. However, many internet shopping malls have been opened and they have put Daily Hanboks into one of their sales categories. The internet malls are getting more active and are expanding more. Therefore the market value of the Hanboks in the future look optimistic. If smaller sized manufacturers of Daily Hanbok's establish cooperative network that have no time and space limit, they can use the strong power of the market as the market development for Daily Hanboks is endless.