• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.87-100
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• 2009

This study examines black images as 'the other' in history and aims to analyze images of black female fashion models which have been changed in modern society, particularly in $21^{st}$ century post-modern world. Black images, established historically as illustrated on the paintings in $19^{th}$ century, were disseminated in $20^{th}$ century throughout the world especially by way of TV and movies as several typical images such as 'Coon' the clown as the object of entertainment, 'Buck' wild and resistant black rascal, and 'Mammy' obedient and fat black woman servant. The result of image analysis of black female fashion models, can be summarized as following five images. The first is the image of 'powerful'. Black female models frequently represent healthy image which reflects black people's excellence in sports and also the traditional Image of black skin color as strength. The second is the image of 'sexy'. They are adored as having perfect ideal body shape. They show off their sex appeal with their body. The third image is 'multicultural'. Black models represent cultures besides the western. The fourth is the image of 'fantastic'. In contrast to the real, resonable things, black female models represent wild, fancy, ghost things. The fifth is the image of 'racial discrimination' By arranging them in contrast to whites, a metaphoric image of racial discrimination can be displayed. The result shows that tome of racial images still remain on the other way.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.79-92
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• 2013

This article explores 1940's fashion. Much has been documented about the huge influence Dior's 1947 New Look had on fashionable clothing, as the industry conspired to reinvent itself as an economic and cultural power after World War II. The introduction of highly feminised and luxurious styles reinstated fashion as a viable concern globally and has arguably been recognised as the defining style of the 1940's. During World War II the fashion system of design, manufacture and export within the western world, virtually ceased. Many dress historians (Arnold, 2008; Breward, 1997; Guenther, 2004; McDowell, 1997; Robinson, 1976; Taylor, 1992; Steele, 1998; Veillon, 2002; Walford, 2008; Wilson & Taylor; 1989) have suggested that fashion ideas froze from 1939 to 1947. Deeper research identifies that during this period of style and trend starvation, many diverse and interesting design ideas arose from the restrictions imposed and Veillon (2002, p.145), has suggested that this period instigated what we now identify as Street Style (Polhemus, 2010). This research investigates the diversity of design ideas produced between 1939-1947 in order to establish whether pre or post 1947 can be upheld as the definitive 1940's look, one that influences contemporary fashion designers and one that we identify with as a conclusive style today.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.113-131
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• 2014

This study aims to examine the background to the rise of Rei Kawakubo, a Japanese designer who achieved fame by suggesting the concept of deconstruction and recombination of clothes, and to look at environment of the time, the formative characteristics of her design and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in her design. As the method of research, collections that Kawakubo unveiled over the past 10 years starting in 2004 were examined, and a survey of the literature was conducted to describe the background of her growth and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in the design. According to the study, Kawakubo grew up in the ruins of a war, and went through a time of great tumult, when Western culture was mixing with Japan's traditional culture. She taught herself a method of creation involving the deconstruction of clothes, and their recombination. For this reason, her design from the beginning was inevitably focused on deconstructing clothes before they could be recombined. Through analyses of her collections, it was found that the formative characteristics of her design were characterized by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity. Kawakubo created clothes under the influence of an ethnicity that was shrouded in individuality and a traditional aesthetic sense, and the formative characteristics of her design defined by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity were closely related to the hybridity represented by Wabi (わび), Yugen (幽玄), Okashi (をかし) and Zakyo (雜居).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.116-125
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• 2004

In the history of western costume, women's hairstyle and headdress have been fluently studied but men's headgear has not. To study and manufacture headgear designs and details, which indicate varieties in forms and ornaments, can be utilized for the fashion currently in vogue. Purpose: the purpose of the study is to investigate one of the headgear, the hat in terms of shift in design and manufacturing method, and to study through manufacturing in order to do a literature review by era and to provide information as the source in new design. Study method and scope: Like previously manufactured and presented bonnet of women's headdress or headgear, the hat in the study was manufactured on the basis of literature review and portrait analysis. Target era is from the late 16th century to the early 17th century when the hat was used. The hat to be manufactured was selected by investigating the details such as hair style and hat features using literature. The pattern of the selected hat was analyzed, and velvet, silk, and wool were used as the materials as in the literature. Ornaments used similar things as in the photos.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.19-30
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to overview the periodical changes of the fastenings, from the pins and buttons in ancient age to the velcro in these days, and to study the relationships of these various fastenings to the costume types, and also to research how it is applied to the latest fashion. The fastening is closely related to the costume types, being various in its form, like pins, fibula, brooches, buttons, lacing, points, hooks & eyes, press studs, zipper and velcro. It is clear from the fact that the fastenings have developed remarkably since 13th century when the costume became tightly fitting to the body, while the fastenings had been very simple, like buttons or fibula, for so long time from the ancient time to the 12th century. The end of fastening's development is to be fitting to the body and to make it easy to take on or off the costumes by use of it. In '99 S/S, '99-00 A/W $pr{\hat{e}t}-{\grave{a}}$-porter collections, ornamental fastening was more emphasized then practical one, probably due to the development of more stretchable fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.168-176
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• 2006

In modern society, Korean women has been doing make-up developing as one of the beauty industry and it means make-up involves more meanings than in primitive period. Therefore we need to study its multi-dimensional connotation Which in the culture that means to understand the society and their way of thinking, and their social value. The structure of feeling represented in make-up in the 70's was Korean women's wish which were to be rich and westernized. In the 70's, Korean women moved to city, and meanwhile they work hard, they has been accepted western lifestyle and it proved on women's face. And in the 80's, Korea has been developed rapidly, and Korean government make people free. So Korean women's structure of feeling in the 80's were women's automation derived from political and economical development. And women expressed their structure of feeling as abundance in the society and women has to been stately. In the 90's Korean women were revolutionary and returned to nostalgia. In 2001, as the world faced new century, Korean women's life has been changed and the structure of feeling were pureness, simple and easiness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.527-539
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• 2019

This study examined the Chinese style in the Vivienne Tam collection as well as explored diversity and modern interpretation of a Chinese style used in modern fashion. The study also investigated the concept and history of the Chinese style as well as analyzed the Chinese style in the collection based on a consideration of a Chinese element that is the basic structure with an understanding of Vivienne Tam and general collection themes. As a result of research, the Chinese style appeared in the Vivienne Tam collection was comprehensive with 43 Chinese elements including Animals, Flower & Grass among the Nature elements, Mythology Religion among the Figure elements, Historical Artifacts, Clothing, Oral Literature, Entertainment, Fine Arts. Technique, Folk holiday among Culture elements and Philosophy among Spirit elements, which accounted for 57.6% of the collection. The formative characteristics that included Chinese elements were extended, abstracted, distorted or transformed; in addition, some abstract elements were embodied into animals, images and certain particular forms to present a theme. In addition to two-dimensional method to print Chinese elements on fabric, they were also expressed as a three-dimensional texture or a silhouette, achieving clear and bold harmony. The aesthetic characteristic is a mixture of Eastern and Western way of thinking. Her costume has a political and historical meaning beyond the imitation of elements that represent the development of a pleasant and interesting design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 1977

It is significant for developing the future for us to know our present age. In order to preserve our Korean costume as a fola clothes retaining our distinguished independent characterisitics and to help design the tomorrow of our Korean costume playing a role as a racial to develop the world clothing culture, a survey was conducted to investigate modern people's conscious-ness and wearing practumes of Korean costume by questionaire and interviewing methods. The results of the survey were analyzed as follows: (1) At present, Korean costumes were purchased as customtailored(64.0%) and as ready-made(17.8%) and most of them were not made at individual homes. The laundry and ironing of them were carried out at laundry shops(68.8%). Considering our present economic, social and cultural aspects, sowing, laundryand ironing will not be carried out at homes again in the future and ready made costumes seen to be produced in a large scale in the future. Garment makers and laundry shop operators should be trained how to make our Korean costumes retain our traditional beauty in the course of their production and laundry and the makers of ready-made costumes must make research how to efficiently produce ideal ready-made costumes by adopting the synchro system in their wrk odisivion. (2) The age group wearing Korean costumes most frequently was the aged people over 60 (their wearing rate; 45%-50%) and the group wearing them most frequently next io the aged people over 60, was housewives(their wearing rate; 15%-20%). Excludign aged people and housewives, other respondentsdid not wear Korean costumes very frequently. Men's wearing rate was lower their wearing rate was the younger their ages were and the less their monthly incomes were. Korean costumes were used for holiday and festival(60%), wedding and funeral ceremonies (52%), visiting and working(22%), casual wear(12.8%) and home wear(9.2%). The use of Korean costumes as casual and home wears, was lower than the use for holday, festival, visiting and working, Under our present circumstances in which our Korean people use both Western style clothes and Korean costumer, our Korean costume has lostits position as a basic and necessary requiement in Korean people's daily life and become a ceremonical and fancy costume. It is natural that the times and life change everything in our daily life. Our costume has to be made as good ceremonial and fancy clothes satisfying modern sensibility according to its new role. In order for us to get close with our clothes, a keen study must be carried out to cleat the color, material, style, function and harmony of the Korean costume matching the of the times. (3) The 47.8% of the respondents answered that they were proud of our Korean costume as our folk clothes, 47.6% replied that thought them just common and 1.1% responded that they were ashamed of it. Most of them were affirmative in feeling pride with our Korean costume. (4) Considering the functional aspect of Korean costumes, their strong points were symetric beauty, rhythmical beauty, unity feeling, harmonical beauty and detailed decorations. Their common shortcomings were lack of individuality and inadequateness for active life. The shortcomings of woman costumes were suppressing breast, making resperation difficult and in adequnteness in summer time. The main reason not to wear our Korean costumes, was due to the fact that they are incomvenient for active life. As a measure to eliminate such shortcomings, 1) the suspension system of skirt to remove the suppression of breast should be generally adopted. 2) they should be simplified in their structure to make them convenient for active life and adepuate in wearing them in hot weather in an extent to which the traditional beauty of the costume may not be lostand 3) a new technique must be explored for showing individuality by wearing method and new arrangment of colors and decorations. (5) The reasons desiring to wear Korean costumes were classifide as follows: A. Korean costumes are our traditional clothes(43.4%). B. Korean costumes are noble and beautiful(26.8%). C. They are accustomed to wear Korean costumes by habit(19.5%). D. Korean costumes are necessary for attending ceremoneis(9.5%). E. Miscellaneous reasons(0.8%). Classifying these reasons into age groups, the high age group over 40 wore them because they were easy to wear by habit and the low age group of 10-30 never thought that they were east to wear by habit. Considering that even those who were accustomed to wear Korean costumes showed a low wearing rate and that the young generation were accustomed to wear Western style clothes rather than Korean costumes, the wearing rate of Korean costumes will be reduced in the future if such trend continues. It is urgent for us to make our best efforts in order to enhance the interest of young generation in Korean costumes and not to make them lose the strong points of Korean costume in the future. (6) Conicering the plan of the respondents on what kind of clothes they were going to wear in the future, among the age group over 50, those who wanted to wear only Korean costumes were 24.8%(men) and 35.1%(women), those who wanted to wear 49.7%(men) and 47.4(women), those who wanted to wear chiefly Western style clothes were 20.7% (men) and 14.4%(women) and those who wanted to wear only Western style clothes, were 2.4% (men) and 2.1%(women). This shows that the general tendency to wear only or chiefly Korean costumes is more prevalent than that to wear only Western style. Among the age group under 50, the tendency to wear Western style clothes was conspicuous and most of the respondent answered that they would wear chiefly Western style clothes and Korean costumes occasionally. Only 5.4% of the respondent answered that they would wear only Western style clothes and this shows that meny respondents still wonted to wear Korean costumes. Those who wanted their descendants to wear what they desire, were 50.1%(men) and 68.8% (women) and those who wanted their descendants to wear Koran costumes occasionally, were 85.8%(men) and 86.3%(women). This shows that most of respondents wanted their descendants to wear Korean costumes. In order to realize, it is necessory for us to make ourdescendants recognize the preciousness of our traditional culture and modify our Korean costumes according to their taste so that they may like wearing them.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.71-83
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of street fashion, the center of avant-grade modern fashion, that shows the origination background and special feature concretely. The times was defined through the 1980's from World War II that street style originated, so the range of study was the 1990's when the street style was influenced by that of the past and was revived. The ways of study were to analyze the records of ideology, art and music connected with the street style from World War II to the present when it has risen. The summary of result is as follows. (1) In the 1940's, Zooties was the jet of desire suppressed by African-Americans that couldn't receive favors socially and economically and Hipsters pursued reformative bebop that made up of soft Jazz. In the 1950's, Modernists were running after Cool Jazz to the minimum. In the 1970's, Funk appered in the sexual desire and erotic strength, and was surfaced from Negro Getto. In the 1980's B-boys & Flygirls showed the street style by the scribble art of slum in the New York. As mentioned above, In the 1990's, Acid Jazz influenced by the Jazz of Negro has been the fashion added to the tradition of musical form that come from eclecticism of Jazz tended Neo-Jazz. (2) In the 1940's, Western style dreamed the country life because of rapid urbanization. In the 1950's, Beat obtained the feeling of liberation from the dissolute life and activity. In the 1960's, Psychedelics showed the freedom affected by the Pop-art and Op-art, and Hippies pursued the true individuality as 'love & peace' life style and the return to nature. In the 1990's, Grunge look influenced by the above has been fashion that shows the practical use of second-hand clothing or patchwork contrary to elitism. (3) In the 1940's, Caribbean style appered in the typical textile color with the center of West Indies. In the 1960's, Rude boys showed the magnificence and difficulty of Jamaica, and Rastafarians had a tendency to come back to the ancient civilization of America. In the 1970's, Two-tone was the simple clothing for harmonizing among human races. In the 1990's, Jamaica look influenced by the above has been the Lege fashion introduced to a high fashion, appearing in the special bright color, applique, unique hair style, and so on. (4) In the 1950's, Sufers pursued natural rhythm, getting out of everything. In the 1970' s, Skaters enjoyed the speed on the paved road. In the 1980's, Casuals emphasized the spirit of cooperation of young-things. In the 1990's, Casual look Influenced by the above has been the fashion that forms the activity, function and strong spirit of cooperation by pursuing comfortable life and sports in the tension of life and variety of modern society. (5) It was hard for Bikers to adjust themselves in society after the war. In the 1950's, Coffee bar cowboys were the reckless running boys in the leather jacket. In the 1960's, Rockers created the group originality as disobedient outsiders and Greasers imitated Rolling Stones. In the 1980's, Punks resisted the viewpoint of the old generation in offensive fashion. In the 1990's, Cyberpunk influenced by the above has pursued the classless structure, electronic music and metallic clothing that forebodes gloomily as the computer generation of ultra-modern science times. Accordingly, in understanding a complex modern fashion phenomenon, it was analyzed that the street styles of the past, from World War II to the 1980's, were reflected in that of the 1990's dividing into the five types in a word, namely Acid Jazz, Grunge look, Jamaica look, Casual look and Cyberpunk.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.45-59
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to discover the present situation of fashion journalism, which is a collaborator and watchdog of the fast-growing fashion business industry, then to proffer fundamental data for the setting of desirable fashion journalism in the field of newspaper. Unlike magazine and internet news service which are focused on a specific group, daily newspaper has a far-reaching influence without regarding the age, gender and social status of the readers. Therefore, how newspaper deals with fashion and fashion phenomena has immense influence on the attitude and understanding of common people on fashion. Defining fashion journalism is an activity of gathering and mediating of various ideas and opinions on fashion, the beginning of fashion journalism of newspaper traces back to the late of 19th century. From then to the period of Japan's occupancy by force, newspaper used fashion articles to lead enlightenment of lifestyle. After Korean War, newspaper was one of the main path of in-flowing western culture and fashion trend till 1970s. During $1980s{\sim}1990s$, fashion articles in newspaper were separated from woman and family section and fashion journalism made their own way to a specialized field. In the beginning of 21st century, fashion journalism in the field of newspaper is armed with more various and profound contents then ever, but it is also true fashion journalism is not free from accusation of commercialization and agitation of preference on imported luxury goods. Today fashion articles of daily newspapers are not subordinated to the common idea, 'fashion is only for women'. Fashion articles deals with men as well as women. Information on new products is regarded more important than fashion trend. Articles are not restricted in the fashion section. It means fashion journalism is expanding its territory to business section, opinion section and so on. However, fashion news dealing with aged people or young children are very rare. It suggests target readers of fashion news are concentrated on the people who have a considerable buying power. An main article usually has more than 3 photos. That means not only photos in fashion news are established as essential visual information today but also commercialization of fashion news makes rapid progress in this field. Also the considerable dependancy on the information sources from manufacturing side can be a problem of sustaining accuracy and impartiality of news.