• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.257-265
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• 2018

This study investigated the colors of the costumes in the film 'The Handmaiden'. The author categorized and examined the hue and tone of the main character's costume as well as provided an adjective image surveyed from the standpoint of the audience in order find if the intended story of the director is delivered to the audience through costume colors. Study method analyzed 25 set costume colors of the heroine 'Hideko'. The color analysis were analyzed by capturing DVD images that showed the costume of 'Hideko'. The colors of costumes were analyzed by recognition through the eyes based on the IRI, Hue, and Tone 120. In addition, the analysis of the IRI adjectives image were conducted through the survey. Costume hue of the heroine 'Hideko' in the film 'The Handmaiden' were black, yellow, white, green, and purple. There were many colorful costumes in the movie. Tones were very pale, deep, bright, vivid, strong, and pale. Chroma were evenly distributed and brightness were distributed in the order high, middle, and low. They were interpreted as the intention of showing the situation and psychology of 'Hideko' in various scenes of the film through various costume colors. Color images of the film 'The Handmaiden' were classified as feminine, mature, classy, delicate, classic, noble, polished, refined, showy, western, mellow, pure, and decorative.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.205-216
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• 2012

Korean traditional wedding ceremony was conducted with some regular procedure and there were used special Gyubang crafts for wedding ceremony. Nowadays there is common the western style wedding ceremony and then the use of wedding Gyubang crafts have being decreased. Purposes of this study are to investigate characteristics of and to propose some idea of preservation and application them in the life of today. The results are as follows; Wedding Gyubang crafts can be classified Bojagj(wrapping clothes), Jumeony(cloth bags), ornaments, items related to sewing and others. They were apt to be traditionality, symbolism and shamanism, and were superior in aesthetic sense, the effect of decoration and technical skill. So there was needed preservation them. Some way of preservation and applications them were suggested ; alternation in keeping with modern needs, use of ornament, alteration in present-day life, application their image to Korean cultural products, textile design and so on. Several works were developed by ways suggested and exhibited in order to arouse new understanding Wedding Gyubang Crafts to public.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.781-788
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• 2010

To work in the fashion industry which has entered the digital age, and in specialization and high-industrialization age, one needs to attain various skills required for the qualifications of a fashion specialist. For these, qualification certificate systems are enacted to nurture specialized technical personnel, and among these, a jacket pattern is selected from the practical examination of Western-style dress skill prepared for nurturing specialist who can design, cut, and sew women's clothing, to be compared and analyzed against the existing printed practical textbooks, technical books of making clothes which used as college textbooks, and local documents of theoretical study documents. The methodology of the research is to select 8 samples for the study, analyze the identity with the design, and then cut applying the identical dimensions and compare the measurements, and make the clothes using each cutting methods, and inspect to find the consistency with the design and made statistical analysis. As a result, we designed and made research patterns, and suggested a jacket pattern design to patterns simply that suits the design fast.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.48-56
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.253-264
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• 1997

Han-Bok presents a unique consumption ex-perience different from Western dress which is common to our clothing life. This study is intended to propose the necessity of broad-ening deepening and systematizing a research related to the social aspects of Han-bok. A questionnaire consisted of 10 statements of attitude to Han-Bok 7 statements of the evaluation of the occasional appropriateness of Han-Bok preference questions about style color harmony and decorative materials of han-Bok was developed which includes 5 opinion statement of the importance of tra-ditiona and some demographic variables. During December 1996 and January 1997 the women aged above 20 responded to it and finally 702 data was analyzed. Korean urban women have positive attitude to Han-Bok And the conceit about Han-Bok was significantly higher than the intention to wear it . The most properly evaluated occasion for wearing han-Bok was 'holdays' like Seolnal and chuseok Han-Bok was evaluated im-proper for casual wear and out wear. Factor analysis of 7 occasions determined 3 factors; traditional occasion special occasion and cas-ual occasion. It is needed to identify the ef-ficiency of Han-Bok according to each differ-ent occasion. Korean urban women preferred the style of traditional line soft color and modern har-mony. In a viewpoint of tradition they put more importance in the line of Han-Bok that they do in the color of it.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.89-105
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify sleeves that play an important role in upper-garment designs and that can be presented in diverse shapes by meaningful era. Also, characteristics and trends of sleeves are analyzed to provide a basis for development of design on modem woman's dress. To examine formation and construction of sleeves, literature review and empirical examination were conducted, focusing on patterns of woman's dress presented in literature. This study is to concentrate on the period, the Renaissance to the 19C. In this study, characteristics of sleeves are analyzed by each era according to its shapes and construction. By analyzing the shape of sleeves and the characteristics of the construction of sleeves, the following conclusions had been reached. 1) Sleeves evolved from single, draped garments into dimensional shapes which were manipulated to reflect the changing trends. Considering the comfort and ease of movement have always been very important in clothing design and the construction of sleeves throughout the ages has consistently been able to provide the comfort that wearer demanded. 2) Shape of sleeves varies a little in each period, but recurring trends in fashion led to similar design in sleeves being repeated. Also, instead of a dramatic change in the construction of sleeves, each period had its own unique technique to add freshness by using a variety of ornamentation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.585-593
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• 2005

Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.81-98
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• 2010

This study aims to examine the subjects of cultural power of the modernism and post modernism eras, and analyze how the change of power and subjects influenced fashion throughout the history from the microscopic perspective, and thus to explain the social relationship of the fashion phenomenon. The study findings can be summarized as follows. First, as the post modernism era which was being formed centering around Europe that was pursuing Haute Couture and formal masculine suits ended and the post modernism era started, America became the center of the world power, and the American equalitarianism and growing wealth among the general public spread over the world, and as a result, the ready-made clothes were propagated over the world, and various subcultures came to have multi-national tendency in the New Media society. Second, in the modernism era, the high class, whites, males, and the pre-existing powerful class were the subjects of cultural power. Although this changed in the post modernism era, as some of power moved from the high class to the middle class, the economically affluent general public, still the western world, males, and whites held the center of power. However, later, females, youths, the third world nations, and so on emerged as minor power, and when the New Media society started, the structure developed so that everyone can share cultural power.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Jeogori, Korean jacket, can be categorized into two styles. Traditional style Jeogori is based on conventional construction method for ceremonial or festive occasions. Contemporary casual style Jeogori is based on western style flat pattern making for better fitting and functionality. Traditional style Jeogori is quite flat on human body because it is not considered the grade of shoulder line and is drawn by vertical & horizontal line. This characteristic feature causes weakness in functionality and comfort compared to contemporary casual style. Apparently contemporary casual style has better wearing comfort. Yet to most Koreans, contemporary style Jeogori seems to lack of some characteristic style of its own. This study is to find out how to make Jeogori well balanced in terms of functionality, fit, comfort and traditional style. Currently used Jeogori patterns are compared in order to select the best among them. Onto the selected pattern, several alterations were tried focused on shoulder, armhole and sleeve lines to make optimal modifications. After several comparative fitting tests, the final pattern making method was suggested.