• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 1986

War has been a reason for the culture of one conservative country to make contact with the culture of another country. The Crusade, among other wars, caused cultural exchange between the orient and the occident and had a great influence on the western costume. This paper has made an attempt to find out the influence of the Crusade with respect to the cultural exchange between the orient and the Occident and to study the influence which the Crusade has had on the western costume. The Crusade was the war in which the European Christians tried to retake the Holy Land, Jerusalem, from the Islamites through the 11th century to the 13th century. As a result of this war,the autyority of the Pope was weakned, the nobles were ruined and royal authority was consolidated. Due to the contact with the Orient, trade had become active, cityes had developed and the middle class of rich merchant had grown. Gothic architecture also appeared in the Occident at this time due to the religious influence of the Crusade. Turban type headdress and the brink decoration of clothes had been very popular under the influence of the Orient. Embroidery and applique had developed and silk fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more gorgeous and luxurious. Many accessories were imported from the Orient. The Oriental culture contributed to the use of rich and bright colorsm, various ornaments and splendid textiles of the western costume. Owing to the influence of war itself, many costumes had been newly made in order to adapt to the hot desert climates of the Orient. Blazon decorations, uniforms and armour had also developed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2012

Korean traditional wedding ceremony was conducted with some regular procedure and there were used some Gyubang crafts for wedding ceremony. But perhaps there has not been systematic information about them. Nowadays there is common the western style wedding ceremony instead of traditional style in Korea. So the decrease in the use of them have being appeared. Purposes of this study are to organize the resources about them systematically data of Gyubang crafts used traditional wedding ceremony, and to investigate characteristics of them for propose some idea of application them in the life of today. The results are as follows : Gyubang crafts used traditional wedding ceremony can be separated roughly into four types in use : wrapping clothes, cloth bags, ornaments and items related to sewing. They were apt to be traditionality, symbolic meaning and shamanism, and were superior in aesthetic sense, the effect of decoration and technical skill than other Gyubang crafts. There'll be some follow-up studies on ideas for preserving and appling in modern life.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.183-196
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• 1996

Study on the Apparel Advertising Strategy and Popular Music Singer. From the 1990s popular musics begin to reflect modern fashion. Especially those dance musics such as Rap or Reggae captivate teenagers through the mass media. So middle-low price causal cloth-ing companies hire the most popular singers as their role model. this marketing strategy succeeds to increas their sales and now many companies compete to engage famous singers,. in western countries where the music and the fashion have interacted for some times famouse singers express their personalities through the clothes they wear. The consumers try to imitate them by puchasing smiliar clothsing. And it makes the apparel company to produce more goods. However if those companies continue to be shiortsighted in terms of increasing sales in the shortrun with out their personality and differentiation brand concept. they will only instigate the teenager's consumptionand they'll fail to create their own fashion-style.

• 한국주거학회논문집
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.9-26
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to analyze the quantity, residents` storing manner, and frequency in use of the stored items in bedrooms. and to comprehend the relevant desires of the residents in apartments. The results of the study are summarized as follows; 1. The quantity of the stored Items in bedrooms of apartments were measured after classified into 4 categories; Western style clothes, Korean costumes, underwears, and miscellaneous items. The quantity of the stored items In Rl(the largest bedrooms) was more than twice as many as in R2(the second largest bedrooms)2. The stored items were divided inte 3 categories according to the manner in which they were stored; those generally hung, those generally folded, and those hung or folded half-and-half.3. The frequency in use of the stored items was classified into 2 categories-those used "always" or "often" and those used "seasonal" or "seldom"·and shown diversely according to the kind of items4. It was shown that most residents in apartments were not much satisfied with storage space, i.e.. they generally fell the storage space insufficient. And they tended to want more wardrobes in Rl, and more shelves in R2.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1415-1428
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• 2010

Modernity in costumes is analyzed as the preference of change and novelty, the formation of the masses, and the aspect of function, which is transplanted by western modernization. However, it is seem that the factor of modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. This study examines the Proto-modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. First, this study examines the term 'Imamekashiki' which means the present time. Because of the recognition of every present time arises from the recognition and the preference of change and novelty. In the pre-modem Era, this study examines the masses formed by the publication and the play, Kabuki. This study provides an alternative answer to understanding what is to 'wear clothes' for Japanese people.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.125-140
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is confirming the design characteristics and brand strategies of Ralph Lauren's products through the advertising pictures on internet website. Methods of this study are the analysis of his brand growth process, concept strategy and designs by web promotion sites. Also this study defined his brand character and fashion mind. The Results are as follows. 1) Ralph Lauren's concept strategies are 1. Convert british type into American style 2. Presentation an American life style 3. Marketing strategy using life style and IT business. 2) Ralph Lauren's designs characters are 1. Rich and simple style by preppy look 2. Traditional wear of noble taste 3. Western style of American reclamation period 4. Using of comfortable material 5. Unique colors which are simbolic. Today, his classic and preppy designs all draw upon an image of old word wealth and luxury and he pioneered the concept of clothes as part of a lifestyle environment.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.17-30
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• 2022

Jangchungdan is located at the skirt of Namsan near Namsomundongcheon, so the buildings are arranged with many podiums. The steps for people to go up and down such podiums are placed around the buildings. The Western-style constructional methods and materials introduced by the opening of ports were used for a variety of Jangchungdan buildings with differentiated levels of podiums, for Jangchungdan memorial ceremonies, and other building materials were also installed along with the changes in clothes and lifestyles. Although Dansa was constructed in the Chinese style, it reflected the shrine plane used in Joseon Dynasty, which in turn is thought to reflect Gubonsincham, the basic concept of Gwangmu Reform, as in the case of Jangchungdan memorial ceremonies.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.69-83
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• 2013

Clothes show not just the different social status of people, but the ideology and value of former society through pattern, colour, materials, shapes, etc. The purpose of this article is to fill the academic blank of this part by researching the pattern of fabric design in Jing Pai(Beiing style) and Hai Pai(Shanghai style) cheong-sam during the period of the Republic of China. The contrastive analysis of regional pattern between Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam expect to provide the theoretical basis for the former fashion designers and scholars. There are three approaches in the article: Data collection method, comparison method and Combining theory with practice method as film. Regarding components of pattern, both Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam have mostly single or composite pattern like plants. Further the most of Jing Pai cheong-sam pattern is traditional flower pattern. But Haipai cheong-sam patterns have some western flower pattern. Beside that, it have some geometry pattern. Regarding arrangement of the pattern, both cheong-sams have scattered dot style, the border style, and pictures style. But continuous type of Jing Pai cheong-sam is less while Hai Pai cheong-sam is the most. Comparing Jing Pai cheong-sam color of patterns in "Moment in Peking" is unadorned and types are simple as chinese traditional clothes; However, "In the Mood for Love" introduces us various material colors, new types of patterns and extraneous characteristic geometry patterns of Hai Pai cheong-sam. Generally speaking, the main characteristic of Jing Pai cheong-sam is traditional and conservatism. It keeps Chinese traditional pattern and culture to the most extent. However, Hai Pai cheong-sam are confluent and open with absorbed external culture and techniques which are endowed new artistic color.

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2012

Cloths wrapped around the body have been the basis of the dress of people all over the world for centuries. This study is to research detailed modifiable fashion styling methods in history and to give ideas to people such as fashion professionals who are interested in fashion styling so that they can create modifiable fashion styling easily in fashion fields. The characteristics of modifiable fashion styling methods from ancient to middle ages are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is to expose the knots on the surface of the garments, and the knots were mainly located on the upper part of the body. The second method is a wrapping type of the modifiable styling method, which shows a lot of variant simple shapes of cloths. This method helped develop many wrapping methods over time. The third way is the fixed type of the modifiable styling method, and it uses accessories such as fibulae, belts to fix cloths, to create many different styles. The accessories are located on around either the neck or waist. The fourth method is the composite type of the modifiable styling methods mentioned above. This styling method is adapted in robe type clothes which makes the clothes look full of beautiful drapery. This study suggests that simple shapes of cloths can create enormous amount of styling which can be easily adapted and created nowadays.