• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1984

An attempt was made to determine individual thermal resistances of 2-lining fabrics ad 4-outer fabrics for Korean-styled clothes, and 4-lining fabrics ad 5-outer fabrics for Western-styled clothes at $19^{\circ}C$ and $24^{\circ}C$. The thermal insulation effects for different lining fabrics in Korean and Western-styled clothes were deduced in determining heart rate, rectal temperature, mean skin temperature and microclimates of subjects. The subjects were dressed experimental clothing which were made of lining and outer fabrics in question, and seated in an environmental chamber during the experiment. 1. Thermal resistances of lining fabrics : For Korean-styled clothes. nylon sheer is larger than unzosa. For Western-styled clothes, rayon, acetate, nylon(taffeta) and kalkali in that order. 2. Thermal resistances of lining fabrics combined : with outer fabrics: For Korean-styled clothes. the measured value is larger than the one of simple aggregate value. But in the case of Western-styled clothes, the measured value is smaller than simple aggregate value. 3. The effects of lining on the thermal insulation of the whole clothing: In case when subjects wore unlimited number of underwear, no matter what lining fabrics were used in Korean and Western-styled clothes less thermal insulation effects were indicated. For the case, however, if subjects wore only limited underwear, there are significant differences of thermal insulation between experimental clothings.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 11호
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• pp.87-94
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• 1970

양잠농촌 부녀자들의 의복 꼭 변천과정을 구명하기 위하여 전국에서 임의로 선택한 양잠농촌부녀자 총 183 명을 대상으로 1961년∼1969년까지 3년간에 걸쳐 신조한 의복(양복 한복)을 조사하여 연령별 연도별로 비교 검토한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 양복신조율은 한복에 비하여 2배정도 높았으며 젊은 층일수록 이 비율이 높았다. 연도별로는 점차양복이 한복에 비해증가되는 경향을 보였다. 2. 의복의 유형은 양복에서는 브라우스, 원피스, 스카트가 대부분이었고 한복에서는 저고리와 치마가 거의 전부를 차지하였다. 년도별로는 점차 원피스가 많아지는 경향을 보였다. 3. 의복 제조방법은 자가 제조나 기성복은 적었고 대부분이 맞춤이었다. 이를 연령별로 보면 자가제조와 기성복은 연장자일수록 젊은 층보다 더 많았다. 4. 착용 계절별로는 양복은 하절에 한복은 동절에 많았고 복종별로는 하절에는 원피스 춘추에는 투프스가 많았으며 치마는 계절에 따른 변화가 거의 없었다, 5. 의복종류별로 보면 양복은 폴리에스텔과 이의 혼방물이 가장 많았고 견직물이 가장 적었으며 한복은 이와 반대로 견직물과 견사혼방물이 많았다. 년도에 따라서는 합성섬유가 점차 증가되는 경향을 보였다. 6. 기호색은 양복에서는 백색, 청색, 갈색, 흑색의 순이었고, 한복은 백색, 청색, 녹색, 회색의 순이었다. 연령별로는 젊은 층일수록 색의 선택이 다양하였고, 연도별로는 뚜렷한 차이를 인정할 수 없었다.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.63-63
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• 2003

Western clothes began to be body-fitted from the middle ages and have changed into various forms. As the functionalism and simplicity were pursued through the modern society, western clothes became to be the clothes for all over the world.

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.149-166
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• 1990

Korean clothes is traditional folk costume native to Korea, Which is in Korea clothes. The past Korean costume was developed in the native costume, together influenced by chinese costume. But in the late Yi dynasty the contact with western countries brought about a turning point in Korean costume history, with rapid growth of economy since Korean war in the 1950's, the magnification of industrial structure, the development of productive technique, transformation of consumption pattern and the development of communication have been increased concerns for the western costume. In 1953 the introduction of nylon which was imported from Japanese brought about a fuming point in clothing habits. In 1967 the development of the fiber industry got a firm stand in ready-made clothes. Consequently our traditional Korean clothes was regarded as nonfunctional, nonproductive and it was pushed out of daily life little by little and it was deprived of the function of ordinary costume by the influence of western costume. But in these days the Korean clothes appears as the desire of pursuing traditional style in addition to mordern style of Korean clothes.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2015

This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.211-223
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine aspects of education, social activity, and sense of values in new women, categorizing the clothing habits into hair style, new modes and accessories on the basis of those. and to find out the influences of new women's attirement on clothing habit of general women, centering of 「Beol Geon Gon」 which made its first appearance in November 1926 and issued till June, 1934. First, new education became good opportunity to face and adopt new style of clothes. The school uniform of western style worn under the education system operated missionaries and clothes of returning students from studying abroad became a chance for general people to meet western clothes. Second, various style of western clothing was shown by enlargement of social activity area of new women. In the educational world and active careers such as doctor, journalist. women's libber, convenient clothing was required. The appearance of airwoman and driver showed trends that women's clothing was changing similar to men's clothing. Third, even general women started to adopt western clothes not to be old-fashioned as being threatened and weakened by the vision about marriage and love among new women, and participated in the trends.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.29-48
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• 2012

From ancient to modern days, Koreans have preferred and even worshiped white clothes to the extent that they are called "the white-clad race", and the color black has seldom been used for women's clothes. In western countries too, it was only after Chanel that black color came to represent feminine beauty. Black clothes were introduced in Korea after the opening of its ports to foreign countries in 1876 and have mainly been worn as a practical clolor for winter coats and school uniforms. The traditional preference for white and other bright colors continued well into the 1980s. However, the industrialization and urbanization caused by economic development and the influx of western cultures and ideas in the 1980s brought about the westernization of Korean aesthetic consciousness and resulted in the phenomenon of modern Korean women's preference for black fashion that became conspicuous from 1991. With the introduction of western fashion after the opening of the country in 1876, the spiritual values contained in preference for white clothes have been substituted by materialistic values as people accepted the practical beauty of black fashion, and the inclination toward intrinsic natural beauty intrinsic in the aesthetic senses that preferred white clothes has been replaced by the preference for modern, elegant and sensual beauties of black fashion whose preference has begun in the 1990s.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.98-113
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• 2013

This study is an attempt to analyze the daily life of the Western-yearning Seoul citizens and the inflow of the Western culture into certain social classes. The customs of the characters in the film are studied to illustrate the process of deconstruction of Korean traditional clothes due to the Western influence. The combined application of the Western and Korean styles is also observed. All this study leads to the sense of homogeneity of the times and the conformity to the culture the Korean women shared, which boils down to the social identity of the Korean women who sought an escape from the men-centered social structure by displaying their competence in the field of global modern fashion. As Seonyeong Oh, the main character of the film, , was wearing in the movie the Korean traditional dress, socks, rubber shoes, and then a western-style coat, it well shows that in 1950's, the traditional dress and ornaments were mixed with Western styles. In time, men's wear were completely changed from the traditional Korean clothes to suits, while women's could not break off from the traditional clothes and become westernized, which indicates that the men-centered conservative ideas to keep women within the feudal regime of the society remained. The military look of Seonyeong Oh while she was acting in the society was a symbol of anti-bias against women and anti-convention as well as the will of freedom as an independent woman. Besides, the modern girls would wear clothes of military fashion, Dior's trapeze line, and knit styles flattering the figures. All these well show their desires to embrace Western cultures, especially their dress fashions as well as manners as so-called enlightened ladies. All these elements show that the director was trying to represent the progress of the drama, characters, and psychological states by means of the dress and ornaments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1131-1138
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• 1999

The objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between women's clothing westernization and the economic development in Korea. The data were obtained for the Korean women's clothes and analyzed by the linear regression method. The results were as follows: First western clothing style was adopted first for the street wear and then for the casual home wear. Second the per capita GNP as a proxy of the economic development was shown to affect the weaternization of Korean women's clothing significantly. The Korean treditional clothing was disappeared as the per capita income went up. These results support previous anthropological studies on the westernization and the economic development following industrialization. Also this quantitative study shows one way to prove Bell's hypothesis and will be of use to the economists as well as the clothing researchers.