• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.95-109
• /
• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze the formative characteristic and the aesthetic values of Romantic style. To attain the goal of this study, the selected objects are the Romantic styles that were prevalent from the 1830s to the 1880s. The methodology for this study consists of literary research, aesthetics, dress and case study based upon the analysis of the 19th century dress. Based upon the theoretical study, two results are derived from the analysis of Romantic style in $19^{th}$ century dress. First, the formative characteristics of Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The suppression of body is embodied by two ways. One is tightening body parts, such as the off-the-shoulder line and the corset, and the other is applying weights on body through the wearing of layers of petticoat, crinoline and bustle. The characteristic of the fixed form created the fixed silhouettes of women's dress, for example, an X-silhouette formed with wide shoulders created by big puffed sleeves, narrow waist by corset, and wide hemline of voluminous skirt and petticoats. In addition to the X-silhouette, the bustle style created fixed h-silhouette. Volume in the women's dress were visually expressed by big puffed sleeves, a huge skirt and petticoat made with gathers, pleats and flounces, crinolines and a bustle. Ornamentation was used to express an elegant and fantastic style not only by using luxurious materials in various colors and patterns, but also by applying sumptuous details and trimmings. Second, the aesthetic values of Romantic style dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. Women's dress of the 19th century not only restricted free movement and symbolized men's wealth and status, but also was used as an important tool for seducing men by exposing and accentuating the sexual body, thus becoming a symbol of fertility as a metaphor of pregnancy and uterus. These aesthetic values represented in dress incorporated the contemporary requirements of women of the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.8
• /
• pp.14-26
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.392-406
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to recognize of the size conditions of ready to wear skirts and analyze the patterns of them so that some educational patterns can be complemented. For this purpose, the investigation of the size conditions was focused on the body sizes and products sizes of the care labels. The patterns of them produced through CAD have been classified into 24 items for the effective and practical analysis. Thus, 9 brands were selected and the basic skirts marketed in 2002 spring were analyzed. The results were as follows. 1. Designs of the backs of the basic skirts produced by 9 brands have the similar designs with two darts. Regarding the designs of the front, 6 brands of them have the designs with no darts, 3 of them have the one with two darts. Designs of waists are composed of low waists and round belts. 2. Regarding the waist circumference as the basic composing elements of skirts, 55.6% of the patterns have the composition of the styles with larger front than the back but 33.3% of them have the same front as back. As to the hips, 77.8% of them have the composition of the patterns with larger back than the front. As for the comparison of waist lines, 55.6% of them have lower front lines than the back lines. 3. Regarding darts placement, it was moved to the side lines from the middle of 1/2 of waist lines, dart intake was 1.8-2.4㎝, the length of the front darts was 7.8-9.5㎝, and the length of the back darts 8.4-11.1㎝ 4. The results of wearing-tests by the sensory evaluation, it showed that almost all the items of the results were satisfactory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.2
• /
• pp.130-143
• /
• 2010

Hanbok industry is not based on a consumer-oriented market system, which is related to poor competitiveness in various areas, such as product planning, marketing, and flow of raw materials. The purpose of this paper is to design and conduct an empirical study on important aspects of consumers. experiences and perspectives about Hanbok, and thereby aims to provide much-needed guidance about ways to promote the Hanbok market. Out of 1065 questionnaires distributed, a total of 1039 was returned with responses and used for analyses. The respondent sample included consumers of various background characteristics in their residential areas, age, gender, education levels, and income levels. Cronbach's alpha and a factor analysis were employed for the reliability and the construct validation of the survey instrument. One-way ANOVA associated with post-hoc comparison tests was used to investigate differences across different demographic subgroups of consumers. The results show that consumers generally view Hanbok as one of the formal dresses, worn one or two times per year for traditional events or ceremonies. Consumers tend to show negative opinions about the pricing, and the inconvenience in cleaning and wearing Hanbok. However, consumers think very highly of the aesthetic values, the gracious styles, and the iconic identity of nationalism of Hanbok. This study suggests that Hanbok for modern consumers should be considered as clothing for a ritual, rather than clothing to reconstruct to be fitted to modern daily lives. Hanbok should be promoted as part of up-scaled and differentiated traditional cultures, as clothing that represents and enhances the traditional elegance and beauty unique to the Korean people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.6
• /
• pp.47-64
• /
• 2014

A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.1
• /
• pp.1-15
• /
• 2003

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the middle age with their normal style of dress. In brief, this study wants people to know about middle a9e dancing costumes and understand the culture in the middle ages. It was found that people's everyday clothes in the middle age such as Surcot. Surcot-ouvert, Pourpoint, Houppelande were used as dancing costumes. They were, however. changed from the public's clothes which were tight and long. Rather than wearing costume over others. dancers wore costumes which had slits on skirt or sleeves to increase motion. With the Wild Man of the Wood's which only nobles used for their dancing costumes. costumers highlighted the beauty of human body There were various costume materials used in the middle ages like silk. cotton fabrics, linen or brocade. These materials were used for Surcot and Pourpoint as dancing costumes. The naturalness of nature or geometric patterns also was expressed on the costumes. Further about those patterns, because the development of stained glass, vivid colors were used especially red, light green, blue etc. As for the hair styles used, dancers let their hair down and put a jeweled crown over their hair. In summation. dancers wore the same clothes that normal People did, but the costumes were different depending on social status and gender. The costumes of ordinary people's were based upon ordinary clothes that moved and emphasized the dynamic motion. On the other side, the court dancers' costumes were very fancy. symbolizing a measurement of nobles' from wealth and authority. as well as an expression of a sense of beauty, The main features of middle ages follows. : To emphasize vitality, there were long slits on the side of skirt. Hair decorations and jewels are more used than in the ancient age's. To hide a dancer's social status. they could use a mask. Wild Man of the Wood's was used for the body makeup. All these features of the dancing costumes must contribute to the progress of the dance in the middle age's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.362-372
• /
• 2008

The remarkable tendency shown in recent fashion can be the customer's passiveness, not only their feeling desire for product but also needs for product seem to be made by mass media. So this condition can be thought as the currency of energy for being subjected. The public of fashion eagerly want the fashion style to be suggested for following it. The late Freudian, Erich Fromm said that the reason why individuals demand themselves to follow the masses' move could be explained as the hope against the fear of feeling not being from staying isolated and having no direction. Escaping from this fear, individuals ought to believe the necessity of participation in public. The fashion is willing to be defined as the united condition by individuals in the hope being consolidate in masses against being solitude. Nowadays, people can share many informations with internet, the fastest medium, which makes the individuals impatient not to be isolate, thinking other people must contact the information and should feel pressure of taking part in the currency. Even though the style is considered to be awkward for following it, it's frequent exposure on mass media by celebrities wearing the style could soon make a fashion. This is able to show that many customers should incline to consider less about their style or taste, whereas lean to pursue after masses' authority. Recent consumers have propensity to avoid feeling concern about others' criticism, on the other side, they try to chase of the fashion as masses' choice for feeling peaceful. The reason why people recognize not to have clothing to wear in spite of a large wardrobe, it must reflect their needs promoted from outside influence of introducing for new styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.5
• /
• pp.71-87
• /
• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.4
• /
• pp.15-31
• /
• 2012

This study is intended to understand the styles, colors and color arrangements of costumes expressed on Kisan Kim Jun-geun's genre paintings of Joseon in the late 19th century. The paintings vary according to the status and gender of the person wearing the costume as well as the time period and different situations the person belongs to. Also, this study aims to examine the meaning and value of Kisan's paintings in terms of the history of Korean costumes. The result of this study are as follows: The basic and common attire for people of all status and class is the jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) for men and Banhoijang jeogori, chima(skirt) for women. Men wear Po(coat) that represents their status and age, and they put on various hats according to different weather conditions or work-skill even when in the same status and class. However, women wear the Baeja(vest), Durumagi(coat) and head-dresses when they are cold. Overall, the costume patterns and shapes that appear on Kisan's paintings show the same patterns and structures when compared to different data during the same time period. Thus, they provide useful information to help not only understand the changes of patterns and structures of costumes, but also the situations and emotions of the people of that time period. Moreover, it can be understood that various colors and color arrangements that reflect the situations and emotions of the late 19th century were used. This study that analyses the colors and color arrangements used in Kisan's genre paintings can provide the very basic and systematically arranged data to help understand the unique colors in Korea. These data can also provide important information to understand the use of dyes and pigments during that time. Therefore, Kisan's genre paintings are meaningful and valuable in terms of the history of Korean costumes for these are the data, from which we can review the costumes, colors and color arrangements in the years from 1890 to 1910.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.574-581
• /
• 2010

Trunks like men's underpants are similar to boxer shorts and are made in both modern and traditional styles. Like boxer shorts, trunks cover the mid-section of the body (hence the name "trunk"). As the income level of the nation increases, men as well as women become interested in fashion expressing the individual's character, by not regarding fashion as simply wearing essential items to live in. Men's interest in fashion influences men's underwear designs which has been thought previously just as to be worn for living in. Nowadays, trunks are often worn as lounge wear in the household, therefore the need for sensual and characteristic trunks designs is required in the fashion market to meet the customer's new needs. In modern fashion designs, Chinese letters have been artistically presented and used in decorative fashion design regardless of its original meaning, generally embroidered in traditional costumes. Based on the fact that Chinese letters containing lucky meanings have traditionally been used, other Chinese letters meaning positive and prospective future can be adapted and weaved into men's trunks designs. Therefore, in this study, among many good meaning Chinese letters; four Chinese letters, 高(high), 金(gold), 義(justice), 愛(love), have been selected and applied in the trunks designs. The purpose of this study is to develop men's trunk designs using these Chinese letters which can be massively produced and sold in Asian countries which commonly understand the meaning of the Chinese letters as well as in South Korea.