• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.109-121
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• 2018

Recently, it is one of the popular fashion and cultural events that people of the younger generation put on a hanbok and take a picture together with communicating by SNS. For this reason, the rent-hanbok market takes a big part of the Korean traditional costume market. Therefor, the recognition of hanbok is changed from the style of uncomfortable and ceremonial clothes, to becoming popular as everyday dress in the younger generation. The various designs of the rental hanbok show two different opinions. One is the increasing popular and general public interest and demand for wearing and showing off traditional hanbok fashions in a positive outlook. Another is the case of the wrong stereotype and knowledge for traditional costume which results in a negative outlook for this type of fashion statement. This study is to look into renting hanbok jeogori for women in Seoul and in Junju. There are 39 styles available in joegori. That being noted, the traditional jeogori has seop and git with dongjung. But it is seen that rental jeogoris do not have the seop, or have the dongjung position as similar to the Po as seen on the men's coat. The showy and colorful materials feel bad and are poorly ventilated. And excessive price competition causes a decreased quality of renting hanbok. Now the rental hanbok business needs to change; to have to make renting hanbok with the correct historical understanding, and it is necessary to have to stop the indiscriminate acceptance of foreign culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.7
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• pp.995-1006
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• 2004

This study examines the effects of clothing style and the order effect on impression formation. The instrument of this study consisted of response scales and stimuli. Fifty-one items of 7-point semantic differential scales, 9 items of demographic traits, and 4 items of subjective evaluation scales were developed. Stimuli were color pictures of a model wearing each of two clothing styles(mannish style, feminine style). The sample include 56 male and female subjects in their twenties and thirties. The experimental design was within-subject design and the half of the sample responded to the mannish style first and the other half responded to the feminine style first. Responses to the semantic differential scales were factor analyzed, and seven factors were identified: intellectuality, sensibility, activity, modesty, competence, display, keenness. There were significant differences between mannish style and feminine style in impression of wearer＇s age, job, and physical attractiveness as well as wearer＇s intellectuality and sensibility. It was revealed that the first impression and second impression of wearer＇s intellectuality, sensibility, modesty, competence, display were differed by the function of the order of stimuli shown to the subjects. Both primacy effect and recency effect of order effect were confirmed, and especially negativity effect was influenced prominently on impression formation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.43-58
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• 2005

The objective of the study is to understand the characteristics of modernistic spatial design and, based on the understanding, to interpret fashion in terms of its spatial relationship with society, culture and human body, thereby looking into unique spatial characteristics fashion has. The main results of this study include : First, the rational space emphasizes geometric symmetry and harmony among each of design elements and is expressed by pursuing a perfect formative beauty that indicates an eternal formal beauty of a physical space. In addition, functional beauty is also pursued, making clothing convenient for activities. Second, the abstract space is characterized as a kind of purity by emphasizing simple patterns and colors and materials of purity for clothing, and it is sometimes expressed as being extremely abstract so that human body can be shown to be distorted. Third, for the uniform and neutral space, mass-production and production at home was made possible with clothing of simple patterns and of standard. In addition, it showed a tendency to become blurred in gender distinction for clothing with women wearing men's clothing, or borrowing design elements from men's clothing. Forth, the space as means of domination and control was shown to be segmented based on place, function and purpose. In addition, control on physical beauty was shown by promoting slim figures that are suited for lineal silhouette of clothing and circumstantial restriction on clothing occurred during war, serving to limit the styles of and purchase of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.36-51
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• 2017

Taekwondo has been known as one of the most symbolic korean sports to publicize Taekwondo various groups have performed exhibitions. These exhibition performances have gained popularity domestically and globally due to the exhibitions' display of artistry and technical mastery. Performance wear has also received wide exposure and thus needs artistic symbolism and functional considerations. This study was done to develop Taekwondo exhibition performance wear for K-Tigers, one of the most active Taekwondo exhibition performing groups. Investigation of current Taekwondo exhibition performance wear and interviewing with K-Tigers members and staff were conducted before designing the uniforms. Interviews demonstrated 3 guidelines: First, the uniforms should not be too different from the traditional wear, but still look unique. Second, it should symbolize the Korean spirit and culture. Third, it should be casual and trendy enough to appeal to young people. Based on these guidelines, 3 styles were made: Dobok style, Hanbok style and Casual style. 5 final designs were selected among 75 sketches with the consensus of the K-Tigers members. This was followed by the 3-step correction process: wearing, check fitting, and correcting design and pattern to provide satisfaction to wearers, and give more detailed information to Taekwondo performance wear design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.235-248
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• 2008

This study is on the characteristics of gloves in the modern fashion and has the purpose to review the style and the feature of gloves coordinated with clothes variously. The study started firstly with reviewing the related literature for the information of the origin, the process of development and the sort of gloves and then verified the results with photographs in the fashion magazines and collections at home and abroad since 1990s. The first characteristic is utility. Lining and covered materials use the materials excellent for keeping warm as the original purpose of wearing gloves is to protect hands against cold weather. It is demonstrated in the fashion collections that coordinating sieves appeals more often in fall-winter season than in spring-summer season. The second is sense of fashion. Gloves are normally coordinated with same materials and colors of clothes. But, gloves could create infinite varieties, make sufficient images through stressing splendid colors on achromatic colored clothes, shaping unique styles, transforming with various materials and ornaments. The last is sense of deconstruction. Gloves are transformed as a sort of clothes beyond the original use. Gloves are coordinated transcending the conventional thoughts, which makes it possible that Stoves appear in summer season, not in winter. Coordinating gloves appears free and unique through atypical formation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.31-45
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• 2013

Fashion appears as a similar sense of form in a regularly cyclical way. The part highlighted in the female body also becomes that way. The social and cultural problem of fashion is also a matter about the selection of a wearer on how to wear in what environment. Power dressing means an attire that makes you feel dignity, intelligence or power and an attire that is needed to succeed in the business society. It is based on the fact that women started wearing tailored suits that were regarded as the exclusive item of men as the women's social activity was actively progressing. The purpose of the study is to analyze the problem of styles in the social and cultural perspectives. The power dressing was repeatedly appeared in 1930s, 1980s and 2000s. Therefore, this study collected photo data and literature documents to analyze and compare shoulders represented during these three periods, and to examine what social cultural environment was operated for each period and how the designers of each period expressed with clothes. Power dressing is characterized by the use of shoulder pad for the first time for 1930s, the extended shoulder for 1980s and the design the extended shoulder with the more decorative method for 2000s. Power dressing has been utilized as women's gain and improvement of social status, flaunting of economical status and a symbol of individuality and identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.725-736
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• 1998

The purposes of this study were to identify the dimensions of consumers' dissatisfaction with dress shoes when purchase and while using them, and to examine the differences in dissatisfaction factors among consumers grouped by age, occupation and purchasing characteristics. A questionnaire consisted of 86 consumer's dissatisfaction statements with purchasing and using women's dress shoes was developed after conducting 3 pilot tests, and administered to 5BO women in age between 20 and 60 years residing in Seoul and the metropolitan areas in June, 1997, 457 were used for data analysis. Ten factors of dissatisfaction with the women's dress shoes when buying them were identified: attitudes of salespersons, bargain sales, variety of styles, store environment, inconvenience in using girt certificates, fashion. advertisement, display, design, and size. During purchase stage, consumers grouped by demographic characteristics and purchase behaviors showed significant differences in design, attitudes of salespersons, store environment, and selected dissatisfaction factors. Nine dissatisfaction factors with using dress shoes were identified: physical discomfort, after-service, distort of shape, low quality, surface defects, suede/ wearing out, fit, inferiority of color and texture/walking discomforts. During consumption stage, consumers with different demographic characteristics and purchase behaviors were found significantly different in physical discomfort, fit, and selected dissatisfaction factors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.529-547
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to understand the concept, form, and structure of the bata de cola through an investigation of the history of the costume and a study of the suitability of its functional elements during performance of 'Caña Flamenco'. Traditionally, Flamenco dance dresses were made by Spanish women from the lower classes, and the 'upward flow' of the dresses represented the women's individuality and unique style. The bata de cola, which appeared later, was an evolution of the Flamenco dress that was influenced by costume styles and silhouettes of the 19th and early 20th centuries, and it was made famous by Flamenco dancers. For practical costume production, a Flamenco artist who had performed in Spain and Korea was proposed as a study participant. The study was conducted using a stepwise wearing evaluation method whereby the Flamenco artist wore prototype dresses and evaluated whether they were practical for the required dance movements or not. A final bata de cola pattern was derived after the experiment was repeated five times based on the feedback of the Flamenco artist, focusing on the factors that were considered most important. Using stepwise clothing evaluation of the prototype, a costume that enabled the Flamenco artist to implement optimal movements was successfully produced.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.135-152
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• 2022

Recent weddings have been performed in more unique and characterful styles going beyond the existing same old method of past weddings, and they are changed into small weddings with simplified style without unnecessary procedures by choosing a wedding venue different from others. It is necessary to develop a new wedding dress design suitable for such changing wedding culture, and especially, dresses are required to have some practical designs, so that they can be worn not only for the wedding ceremony or party but also for everyday life. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to develop a new normal wedding dress for small weddings that reflect design according to the emerging small wedding culture. To this end, a theoretical review of small weddings was conducted, and based on this, a new normal wedding dress design was developed for small weddings. Based on practicality and economic feasibility, the New Normal Wedding Dress exhibited 'variable by wearing method' that changes according to the wearer's purpose and 'variable by attaching and detaching method' that changes according to the detachment of details. The small wedding dress developed through this study is expected to become a new standard for wedding dresses that is suitable for the changing wedding culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.