The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A study of the bata de cola in Flamenco dresses

플라멩코 드레스 바따 데 꼴라의 연구

  • Received : 2022.03.26
  • Accepted : 2022.07.22
  • Published : 2022.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to understand the concept, form, and structure of the bata de cola through an investigation of the history of the costume and a study of the suitability of its functional elements during performance of 'Caña Flamenco'. Traditionally, Flamenco dance dresses were made by Spanish women from the lower classes, and the 'upward flow' of the dresses represented the women's individuality and unique style. The bata de cola, which appeared later, was an evolution of the Flamenco dress that was influenced by costume styles and silhouettes of the 19th and early 20th centuries, and it was made famous by Flamenco dancers. For practical costume production, a Flamenco artist who had performed in Spain and Korea was proposed as a study participant. The study was conducted using a stepwise wearing evaluation method whereby the Flamenco artist wore prototype dresses and evaluated whether they were practical for the required dance movements or not. A final bata de cola pattern was derived after the experiment was repeated five times based on the feedback of the Flamenco artist, focusing on the factors that were considered most important. Using stepwise clothing evaluation of the prototype, a costume that enabled the Flamenco artist to implement optimal movements was successfully produced.

Keywords

References

  1. Abcdesevilla. (2021, April 17). La Feria de Abril de Sevilla en el siglo XX: la decada de los anos 30. Retrieved July 1, 2022, from https://sevilla.abc.es/sevilla/feria-abril/sevi-feria-abril-sevilla-siglo-402231738323-20210417090936_galeria.html
  2. Bae, S. J. (2018). A study on the upward flow of the Majo and Maja costumes in 18th century Spain, observed in the paintings of Francisco de Goya. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 42(1), 74-87. doi:10.5850/jksct.2018.42.1.74
  3. Como cubrir un cuerpo. (n.d.a). Vestidos Flamencos la bata de cola. Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://www.comocubriruncuerpo.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/140101_-vestidos-flamencos-La-bata-de-cola-_paula.jpg
  4. Como cubrir un cuerpo. (n.d.b). Pattern of vestidos la bata de cola. Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://www.comocubriruncuerpo.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/140101_-vestidos-flamencos-La-bata-de-cola-_19.jpg
  5. Dance from Spain. (n.d.). Emotions by Maria Juncal. Retrieved July 18, 2022, from http://dancefromspain.feced.org/en/emotions-by-maria-juncal-2/
  6. Fabrickated. (2017, July 25). Flamenco style evening dress. Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://fabrickated.com/2017/07/25/balenciaga-part-two
  7. Fernandez, A. S. (1999). El manton de Manila: de Filipinas a los museos [The Manila shawl: From the Philippines to museums]. Patina, 9, 136-141.
  8. Ferraris, G. (2014, March 28). La bata de coda di Armani per Joaquin Cortes [Blog Post]. Gabo su Torino. Retrieved July 18, 2022, from https://gabosutorino.blogspot.com/2014/03/alta-moda-alla-venaria.html
  9. Flamencodressmaking. (n.d.). Bata de cola pattern iris. Retrieved May 22, 2022, from https://www.flamencodressmaking.com/product/bata-de-cola-pattern-iris/
  10. Goldbach, T. (2014). Fascism, Flamenco, and ballet Espanol: Nacionalflamenquismo. Unpublished master's thesis, University of New Mexico, Albuquerque, USA.
  11. Han, S. I. (2017). A study on jewelry design inspired by Flamenco. Unpublished master's thesis, Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.
  12. Jeon, E. K., & Kwon, S. H. (2004). 패턴 제작의 원리[Principles of pattern making]. Seoul: Gyomunsa.
  13. Kim, K. S. (2014). The study of Spanish taste in Cristobal Balenciaga. Unpublished master's thesis, Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.
  14. Kim, K. S., & Park, J. H. (2014). Taste of Spain in designs by Cristobal Balenciaga. Journal of Fashion Design, 14(2), 1-19.
  15. Lee, C. Y. (1996). The influence of Spain folk costumes on contemporary fashion (after World War II). Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  16. Lee, G. H. (2021). Spain folk costumes represented in the ballet 'Don quixote'. Unpublished master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Korea.
  17. Lee, J. H. (2016). Cristobal Balenciaga apparel pattern research: '1950s~1960s looks on'. Unpublished master's thesis, Sejong University, Seoul, Korea.
  18. Lee, J. M. (2017). A comparative cultural study on Salpuri-dance and Flamenco: Focused on characteristics of performance and emotional similarity. Unpublished master's thesis, Korea National Open Universty, Seoul, Korea.
  19. Martinez Moreno, R. M. (1999). El traje de Flamenca: Una aproximacion etnologica [The Flamenco dress: An ethnological approach]. Narria, 85, 37-46.
  20. Mesa Garcia, M. (2019). Expediente de candidatura para declarar la "Feria de Abril de Sevilla" bien de interes cultural [Application file to declare the "April Fair in Seville" of cultural interest]. Unpublished master's thesis, University of Lleida, Lleida, Spain.
  21. Museo Carmen Thyssen Malaga. (1993). Bailando. Retrieved January 25, 2022, from https://www.carmenthyssenmalaga.org/obra/bailando
  22. Notarios y Registradores. (2017, March 6). Registradoras en la Feria de Abril de Sevilla. Retrieved January 25, 2022, from https://www.notariosyregistradores.com/web/participa/noticias/registradoras-en-la-feria-de-abril-de-sevilla
  23. Retablo Andaluz. (2018). Pilar Lopez - Cana 1952 [YouTube Channel]. Retrieved July 18, 2022, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVFQajZ6HoE
  24. Samel, R. (2013, September 28). A bata de cola [Blog Post]. Flamenco y Moda. Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://flamencoymoda.blogspot.com/2013/09/a-bata-de-cola.html
  25. Vega, J. B. (2006). Los cafes cantantes de Madrid: (1846-1936) [The cafes cantantes of Madrid: (1846-1936)]. Madrid Espana: Ediciones Guillermo Blazquez.