• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.25-39
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• 2009

This research attempts to analyze the physical characteristics of middle school girls and compare the product sizes and patterns of school uniform blouses by brand. And wearing tests were performed regarding the appearance of blouse by bland. The results are follows. The standard deviation for bust circumference and waist circumference of middle school girls measured in 2004 were showed extremely large difference among individuals compared to the previous results. While waist back length reached adult size by $2^{nd}$ grade high school, bishoulder length reached adult size by $2^{nd}$ grade middle school. And girls after $2^{nd}$ grade middle school had their depth and breadth of bust, underbust circumference and bust circumference growing proportionally. These results need to be reflected in producing a pattern drafting for middle schoolers. By comparing wearing test results on appearance, it was shown that in terms of ease of bust circumference, the expert group evaluated brand with less ease as not having adequate ease compared to brand, while the middle schooler group evaluated as having sufficient ease. The front silhouette also showed same results. This reflects the preference for appearance by the middle schooler group, which is a factor to be considered during pattern drafting of school uniform blouse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.99-110
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable for their physical characteristics for the fatty body of Korean elementary school boys who re more than 1.5 Rhrer's Index. The procedures of the study were as follows : We have surveyed the rate of fatty children who were more than 1.5 Rhrer's Index on 2, 185's and elementary school children. The result of research showed the rate of fatty boys in 9-11 years-old were the highest one. Therefore, body measurement and statistical analysis. 203's boys between the ages of 9-11 and over 1.5Rhrer's Index were measured on 25 items. Descriptives, correlation and factor analysis were computed. Fatty boys higher than standard boys, and bigger than grith and width items. 4 type of conventional pants pattern were collected . The most accepted conventional pants pattern was decided through wearing test. The new pattern was based on the most accepted conventional pattern, and developed through wearing test. After new pattern drafting , the sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new pattern by comparing it with the conventional pattern. The result of sensory evaluation , it was found that the new pattern was more suitable then the conventional pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to examine the vest patterns with better fitness, function and beauty best suited to the bodies because the previous studies on the vest pattern are not enough to be usable for its making and wearing including the emperiment and practice as well as its direct design and cutting although its wearing range has been widely popular. This study was carried out by making the experimental vest and performing its wearing experiment. The result of this study is summarized as follows. 1. The sensory evaluation on apperance showed that the wholoe average of pattern 4 was the highest for all S, M, L bodies. In addition, it was shown by the bodies that the most suitable related patterns included pattern 4-M body, pattern 2-S body and pattern 4-L body. However, the L body indicated the lowest score in all patterns. Then, this fact means that the diversified studies must be carried out on the vest patterns for the bodies. 2. The results on the function of vertical motions indicated that when the motion angle increased the lifting volume of the vertical motion also increased proportionally, and that the motion at $135^{\circ}$ among these verical motions showed the highest score. Therefore, it is required to consider this fact when determining the vest length in the process of making the vest pattern. 3. The results on the twisted degree of a posture showed that as to the experimental results on these vertical motions the twisted degree increased with the increase of angle. This fact seems to be also important in deforming the vest length when making the vest.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.113-121
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• 2011

This study developed a method of calculating dynamic wearing ease (DWE) to make patterns for coverall work clothing. The DWE was measured from 3D body scan data of women in their 20's (n = 10). The body postures adopted for measuring the DWE were sitting and deep bending postures. Three types of experimental patterns (A, B, C) were developed. The DWE was applied at the waist and hip lines of the pattern. The location and size of the DWE varied from one pattern to another. For pattern B, DWE of 8.8cm was applied at the back of the waistline. For pattern C, 5.3cm was applied at the waist for the center back line, and 3.5cm was applied at the under hip level. The comfort of the experimental clothing was evaluated in six body postures. The results showed that patterns B and C were comfortable at the crotch, shoulders, and arm pits. Pattern C was comfortable at the hip and crotch areas in the arms lifting-up posture and the stepping-up posture. The appearance and fit of the experimental clothing were evaluated by the panels. Patterns B and C fitted better than pattern A at the abdomen. The results suggest that DWE should be applied at the waist and hip levels for making coverall work clothing patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.648-654
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develops of brassiere pattern for middle school students (15 ages ${\mp}$ 3). In order to design a brassiere pattern, the body surface shell was used as the basic pattern. The foundation pattern and the four-piece brassiere pattern with wire were designed and sewed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The foundation pattern of the size 75A was proved proper for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the base line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plaster mold, the cups of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell, and full side stretch -wings were applied to 8% reduced body size. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items of clothing compensation, body motion, clothing pressure and breasts growth. The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts growth, It was designed to support the breasts firmly, not to press the middle part of them. Simultaneously, this has the advantages that satisfy a characteristic of a figure and the purpose of putting it on.

• 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.02a
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• pp.19-26
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• 2008

This paper is related to a new technology allowing a user to have a 360 degree viewpoint of the virtual wearing object, and to an object VR(Virtual Reality)-based 2D virtual textile wearing system using viewpoint vector estimation and textile texture mapping. The proposed system is characterized as capable of virtually wearing a new textile pattern selected by the user to the clothing shape section segmented from multiview 2D images of clothes model for object VR, and three-dimensionally viewing its virtual wearing appearance at a 360 degree viewpoint of the object. Regardless of color or intensity of model clothes, the proposed system is possible to virtually change the textile pattern with holding the illumination and shading properties of the selected clothing shape section, and also to quickly and easily simulate, compare, and select multiple textile pattern combinations for individual styles or entire outfits. The proposed system can provide higher practicality and easy-to-use interface, as it makes real-time processing possible in various digital environment, and creates comparatively natural and realistic virtual wearing styles, and also makes semi -automatic processing possible to reduce the manual works to a minimum. According to the proposed system, it can motivate the creative activity of the designers with simulation results on the effect of textile pattern design on the appearance of clothes without manufacturing physical clothes and, as it can help the purchasers for decision-making with them, promote B2B or B2C e-commerce.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.518-532
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• 2008

The purposes of this study were to investigate the relationships between women's self-image and the preference and the wearing frequency of knit-wears, and to examine the characteristics of the design elements that influence the preferred knit-wear images. The subjects were 277 female college students and working women living in metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach's $\alpha$-reliability coefficient, Pearson's correlation coefficient, and multiple regression analysis. Four dimensions of women's self-images were derived by factor analysis; elegance, conservativeness, individuality, and maturity. Women with conservative self-image preferred simple knit-wears and women with high rate for individuality preferred splendid and sporty knit-wears. Women with elegant self-image disliked sporty knit-wears. Women with conservative self-image preferred white, and those who rated their self-image to be individuality preferred various colors including yellow, blue, green, purple, pink, and sky-blue. Women with mature self-image preferred black and beige. Women with individuality as their self-image preferred jacquard pattern and abstract pattern. There was a higher wearing frequency for all four seasons for women with conservative self-image, and there was higher wearing frequency in the winter for those with elegant self-images. Women who preferred simple knit-wears showed preference for single color with no prints and low chroma color, and those who preferred sporty knit-wears showed preference for elastic materials. Women who preferred neat and elegant knit-wears showed preference for argyle check pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.366-379
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• 1995

This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle-aged women's upper torso by classifying the upper torso somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Factor analysis of principal component model was used to 38 directly measured items, and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Seven factors were extracted from the factor analysis. The first factor represented the items of circumference, breadth, and depth which were related with body size. On the basis of the cluster analysis using factor scores trom factor analysis as being independent variables, the subjects were classified into three groups. Three dress forms were constructed according to the characteristics for each somatotype of subjects, the three-dimensional characteristics of somatotype were analyzied by the moire pattern and horizontal section map of proposed dress forms. Wearing test by moire topography was used to evaluate wearing outline, the ease of clothes and garment space. Moire pattern and horizontal section map were useful to evaluate wearing conditions, and garment space was changed by the characteristics of the body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.433-446
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• 2001

Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.