• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.685-699
• /
• 2014

In this study, the dynamic responses of a riser under the combined excitation of internal waves and background currents are studied. A modified Taylor-Goldstein equation is used to calculate the internal waves vertical structures when background currents exist. By imposing rigid-lid boundary condition, the equation is solved by Thompson-Haskell method. Based on the principle of virtual work, a nonlinear differential equation for riser motions is established combined with the modified Morison formula. Using Newmark-${\beta}$ method, the motion equation is solved in time domain. It is observed that the internal waves without currents exhibit dominated effect on dynamic response of a riser in the first two modes. With the effects of the background currents, the motion displacements of the riser will increase significantly in both cases that wave goes along and against the currents. This phenomenon is most obviously observed at the motions in the first mode.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.7-19
• /
• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.27 no.6
• /
• pp.382-390
• /
• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.275-298
• /
• 2017

This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the maximum equilibrium scour depth below a pipeline exposed to random waves plus a current on mild slopes can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) wave height distribution for mild slopes including the effect of breaking waves, and using the empirical formulas for the scour depth on the horizontal seabed by Sumer and Fredsøe (1996). The present approach is valid for wave-dominant flow conditions. Results for random waves alone and random wave plus currents have been presented and discussed by varying the seabed slope and water depth. An approximate method is also proposed, and comparisons are made with the present stochastic method. For random waves alone it appears that the approximate method can replace the stochastic method, whereas the stochastic method is required for random waves plus currents. Tentative approaches to related random wave-induced scour cases for random waves alone are also suggested.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.161-189
• /
• 2016

This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the maximum equilibrium scour depth around a vertical pile exposed to random waves plus a current on mild slopes can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) wave height distribution for mild slopes including the effect of breaking waves, and using the empirical formulas for the scour depth on the horizontal seabed by Sumer and Fredsøe (2002). The present approach is valid for wave-dominant flow conditions. Results for random waves alone and random wave plus currents have been presented and discussed by varying the seabed slope and water depth. An approximate method is also proposed, and comparisons are made with the present stochastic method. For random waves alone it appears that the approximate method can replace the stochastic method, whereas the stochastic method is required for random waves plus currents. Tentative approaches to related random wave-induced scour cases on mild slopes are also suggested.

• Korean Journal of Hydrosciences
• /
• v.1
• /
• pp.73-97
• /
• 1990

A literature review is made on the numerical models of wave-induced currents. The major processes of the flow system are wave breaking, bottom friction of combined wave-current flow and mixing processes primarily caused by wave breaking as well as the flow fields of waves and currents themselves. The survey is given to each item with great emphasis on numerical implication as well as physical mechanism. As noted is the importance in recent investigations, a brief treatment is also given on the currents driven by random or spectral waves.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.115-122
• /
• 1993

There is evidence that noradrenaline enhances spontaneous contractions dose-dependently in guinea-pig antral circular muscle. To investigate the mechanism of this excitatory action, slow waves and membrane currents were recorded using conventional microelectrode techniques in muscle strips and the whole cell patch clamp technique in isolated gastric myocytes. On recording slow waves, noradrenaline $(10^{-5}\;M)$ induced the hyperpolarization of the membrane potential, although the shape of the slow waves became tall and steep. Also, spike potentiaIs occurred at the peaks of slow waves. These changes were completely reversed by administration of phentolamine $(10^{-5}\;M),\;an\;{\alpha}-adrenoceptor$ blocker. Noradrenaline-induced hyperpolarization was blocked by apamin $(10^{-7}\;M)$, a blocker of a class of $Ca^{2+}\;-dependent\;K^+$ channels. To investigate the mechanisms for these effects, we performed whole cell patch clamp experiments. Norndrenaline increased voltage-dependent $Ca^{2+}$ currents in the whole range of test potentials. Noradrenaline also increased $Ca^{2+}\;-dependent\;K^+$\;currents, and this effects was abolished by apamin. These results suggest that the increase in amplitude and the generation of spike potentials on slow waves was caused by the activation of voltage-dependent $Ca^{2+}$ channel via adrenoceptors, and hyperpolarization of the membrane potential was mediated by activation of apamin-sensitive $Ca^{2+}\;-dependent\;K^+\;channels$.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.54-64
• /
• 1991

To accurately estimate the rate of sediment transport in shallow water bodies, it is necessary to investigate the irregular waves transformation characteristics and nearshore currents produced by random sea waves. Most of studies on numerical models for nearshore currents are based on the theory of monocromatic waves and thus, very few nearshore models take into account the effect of irregularities in the hight, period and directional spreading of incident waves. The numerical simulation model for nearshore currents used in this paper considers the effect of irregularities of incident waves, based on Individual Wave Analysis. The computational results are compared and shown in a reasionable agreement with the experimental data.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
• /
• v.4 no.spc
• /
• pp.245-253
• /
• 2017

In this study, surface currents measured by small lagrangian GPS drifters (Aquadrifter) in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of nearshore surface current and wave-induced current to understand sediment transport mechanism near the crescentic bars in the surf-zone and near Kangneung breakwater and submerged breakwater in Anmok. The 8 times lagrangian drifter experiments were conducted mostly during in 2nd, 3rd, 4th intensive measurements in winter, summer, and spring seasons with long-term wave observation at the station W1. The analysed surface currents near the breakwaters in Anmok show that wave-induced currents at the middle of the submerged breakwater were separated and flowed toward the shoreline but offshore currents were dominant through the channels between the breakwaters. The longshore currents near the shoreline were flowed to the northwest (southeast) depending on the incoming waves from ENE (NNE). The surface nearshore offshore currents were generated mostly by waves and winds in case of high and low wave energy environments. Using the small-size lagrangian surface drifter experiments, we successfully measured longshore and offshore wave-induced currents in the surf-zone and near submerged breakwater close to Kangneung breakwater. The drifter experiment results show the availability of direct observation of nearshore surface currents to understand the mechanism of sediment transport analysing observed wave-induced current and ebb-current in the surf-zone generated by incoming waves and local winds.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.46 no.3
• /
• pp.245-252
• /
• 2013

The reflection coefficients of monochromatic water waves over various shear currents flowing on a constant topography are estimated analytically in this study. The region of varying shear currents is represented by a finite number of tiny steps with a uniform depth topography. The proper numbers of steps and evanescent modes needed for the analysis are proposed by a series of convergence tests. The characteristics of reflection coefficients for various shear currents conditions are also examined.