• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.139-147
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• 2021

In this study, waves were defined using the water surface elevation data observed from the HeMOSU-1 and 2 marine meteorological observation towers installed on the west coast of Korea, and correlation analysis was performed between wave parameters. The wave height and wave period were determined using the wave-train analysis method and the wave spectrum analysis method, and the relationship between the wave parameters was calculated and compared with the previous study. In the relation between representative wave heights, most of the correlation coefficients between waves showed a difference of less than 0.1% in error rate compared to the previous study, and the maximum wave height showed a difference of up to 29%. In addition, as a result of the correlation analysis between the wave periods, the peak period was estimated to be abnormally large at rates of 2.5% and 1.3% in HeMOSU-1&2, respectively, due to the effect of the bimodal spectrum that occurs when the spectral energy density is small.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.479-484
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• 2007

For calculation of wave field for design of coastal and port structures, generally the wind fields from inland observation record or the predicted waves from deep water wave transformation model are being used. However, for the first case, as we should revise the wave data adopting correcting parameters depending on the distance from the coast and location, it is difficult to extract water waves from wind field. Furthermore, for the second case, because of the calculation which executed under very large grid sizes in the wide domain, the simulation(wave transformation) implied uncertainty in the near shore area and shallow region. So it's difficult to obtain exact data from the simulation. Thus, in this study the calculation of wave field on shallow water is accomplished using the observed data of typhoon 'Maemi' in the Korea Eastern South sea. Moreover, for the accuracy of the calculated wave field, we compared and studied the observed data of wave height and direction on the vicinity of the Ulsan waters. It is proved that the results of this study is more accurate than the existing method with showing ${\pm}1.3%$ difference between observed and calculated wave height distribution in Ulsan waters

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.180-188
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• 2017

Recently, as the strength of winds and waves increases due to the climate change, abnormal waves such as swells have been also increased, which results in the increase of downtime events of loading/unloading in a harbour. To reduce the downtime events, breakwaters were constructed in a harbour to improve the tranquility. However, it is also important and useful for efficient port operation by predicting accurately and also quickly the downtime events when the harbour operation is in a limiting condition. In this study, numerical simulations were carried out to calculate the wave conditions based on the forecasted wind data in offshore area/outside harbour and also the long-term observation was carried out to obtain the wave data in a harbour. A forecasting method was designed using an auto-regressive (AR) and artificial neural networks (ANN) models in order to establish the relationship between the wave conditions calculated by wave model (SWAN) in offshore area and observed ones in a harbour. To evaluate the applicability of the proposed method, this method was applied to predict wave heights in a harbour and to forecast the downtime events in Pohang New Harbour with highly complex topography were compared. From the verification study, it was observed that the ANN model was more accurate than the AR model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.869-875
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the long-term wave characteristics and tendencies of coastal waters near Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling. Wave hind-casting modelling was performed with a wind data set from ECMWF (2001~2014), which provides data from 1979 to the present. The results of numerical modelling were verified with observed data collected using wave buoys installed by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) in offshore waters. The results agreed well with observations from buoy stations, especially during event periods such as typhoons. The quantitative RMSE value was 0.5 m, which was significant. Consequently, the results of a wave tendency analysis for 14 years (2001~2014) showed an increased appearance ratio for waves of more than 2 m in height at all regional domains. The mean appearance ratio was 0.082 % per year, which implies that coastal waves have been increasing continuously. This coastal wave tendency analysis data can be used to evaluate coastal vulnerability due to recent climate change and the design of coastal erosion prevention structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.292-302
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• 2016

In this study, shallow-water design waves are estimated for various return periods based on statistical analysis of extreme waves observed 13 years at four stations on the Korean east coast (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, Jinha). These values are compared with the results from SWAN simulation by using the deep water design waves conventionally used in Korea (KORDI, 2005). It was found that the simulated values of the shallow-water design waves are comparatively smaller than the values from the extreme value analysis, expecially below 30 years frequency, which implies possible under-estimation of the deep-water design waves on the Korean east coast.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.591-598
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• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• Journal of Astronomy and Space Sciences
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.19-28
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• 2006

The noise temperature of existing millimeter-wave receivers is already within two or three times quantum noise limit. One of practical ways to increase the observation speed of single dish radio telescope without longer integration time is use of multi-beam focal plane array receiver as demonstrated in several large single dish radio telescopes. In this context the TRAO (Taeduk Radio Astronomy Observatory), which operates a 143n Cassegrain radio telescope, is planning to develop a 4 x 4 beams focal plane array SIS receiver system for 86-115 GHz band. Even though millimeter-wave HEMT LNA-based receivers approach the noise temperature comparable to the SIS receiver at W-band, it is believed that the receiver based on SIS mixer seems to offer a bit more advantages. The critical part of the multi-beam array receiver will be sideband separating SIS mixers. Employing such a type of SIS mixer makes it possible to simplify the quasi-optics of receiver. Otherwise, an SSB filter should be used in front of the mixer or some sophisticated post-processing of observation data is needed. In this paper we will present a preliminary design concept and components needed for the development of a new 3 mm band multi-beam focal plane array receiver.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.57-74
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• 2001

In the past, the predictions of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were mainly relied on the hydraulic model tests and empirical methods. In recent years, however, as computers have come into wide use, more accurate models have gradually been developed and thus replaced those conventional methods. For prediction of topographical change near the coastal area, we need informations of wave and current conditions in the numerical model which should be calculated in advance. Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the new layout of the harbor and planned south breakwater for preventing intrusion of sand. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.56 no.8
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• pp.521-528
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• 2023

An approach for producing a rip current risk index using the rip current likelihood distribution obtained through the FUNWAVE simulations was applied to a rip current forecast system. The approach originally developed for an observation-based real-time rip current warning system was utilized with wave forecast data instead of observations for the rip current forecast system. The availability of the present approach was checked by comparing the observation-based rip current risk index and the wave forecast-based rip current risk index of the Haeundae Beach in 2021.