• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2021

The present study suggests the application of a depth camera for wave height field measurement, focusing on the calibration procedure and test setup. Azure Kinect system is used to measure the water surface elevation, with a field of view of 800 mm × 800 mm and repetition rate of 30 Hz. In the optimal optical setup, the spatial resolution of the field of view is 288 × 320 pixels. To detect the water surface by the depth camera, tracer particles that float on the water and reflects infrared is added. The calibration consists of wave height scaling and correction of the barrel distortion. A polynomial regression model of image correction is established using machine learning. The measurement results by the depth camera are compared with capacitance type wave height gauge measurement, to show good agreement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.571-576
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• 2015

This paper presents a comparative study of wave height estimation method that was used for signal to noise ratio and shadowing ratio based on X-band marine radar. If the signal to noise ratio, and is widely used as a method for estimating an wave height, a new method is presented for shadowing ratio. In the case of radar images used in this study it is measuring the data from the coast of Ulsan Jujeon, compared with marine meteorological information from the Meteorological Agency measured a light beacon. We compared the measured data for about 34 days, the typhoon was measured, incluidng a period in the East Sea, and verify the results for various distribution of wave height. For estimate wave height using a shadowing ratio analysis, it does not require calibration and real-time advantages of this part, coming confirmed the possibility of the measurement, the cause detection error for radar image was caused due to determine.

• Journal of Wind Energy
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.25-33
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• 2023

In order to secure the safety of increasing offshore activities such as offshore wind farm maintenance and fishing, IMPACT, a mid-term marine weather forecasting system, was established by predicting marine weather up to 7 days in advance. Forecast data from the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA), which provides the most reliable marine meteorological service in Korea, was used, but wind speed and wave height forecast errors increased as the leading forecast period increased, so improvement of the accuracy of the model results was needed. The Model Output Statistics (MOS) method, a post-correction method using statistical machine learning, was applied to improve the prediction accuracy of wave height, which is an important factor in forecasting the risk of marine activities. Compared with the observed data, the wave height prediction results by the model before correction for 6 to 7 days ahead showed an RMSE of 0.692 m and R of 0.591, and there was a tendency to underestimate high waves. After correction with the MOS technique, RMSE was 0.554 m and R was 0.732, confirming that accuracy was significantly improved.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.296-306
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• 2020

It has been reported that the wave heights measured by Wave and Tide gauges (WTG) have been underestimated, and thus it is important to improve its measuring accuracy for enhancing estimation of harbor tranquility. In this study, the significant wave heights from WTG were calibrated using measured data from AWAC and Waverider buoys moored at the same four locations with the WTG. It was observed that the product of significant wave height and peak wave period, HT, was not underestimated but linearly proportional between the measurements by two instruments. This linearity was applied to develop 3^rd order polynomial functions that best represented the relationship between HT and significant wave heights measured by WTG. These functions were then applied to calibrate the WTG significant wave heights that were lower than 0.7 m, the critical value established for the low waves in this study. The results showed that the linearity between the AWAC (or Waverider buoy) and calibrated wave heights were improved, and the magnitude of underestimated WTG wave heights were increased to be more realistic. The results of this study are expected to be effectively applied for other data sets obtained by WTG only, to increase the observation accuracy of WTG and to improve the estimation of harbor tranquility.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-94
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• 1996

Random wave breaking is one of the most important phenomena in coastal engineering. For two and half decades, various models have been proposed to predict wave height variations in the surf zone. However, some models are applicable to plane beaches only, some requires clumsy computation for a joint probability density of wave heights and periods, and some others need calibration with individual wave data. The present study aims at formulating a model simple enough but reasonably accurate. The merits of the present model are as follows: It is applicable to any shapes of bottom profiles; It requires the input data of incident wave heights and periods only without necessity of coefficient calibration with field data; and its computation time is minimal because it deals with representative waves directly.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.399-408
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• 1999

Copeland’s(1985) hyperbolic mild-slope equation including diffraction refraction and reflection in the wave field is used as a governing equation in this study. The result of Maruyama & Kajima(1985) is used to calculate wave direction and that of Watanabe & Maruyama(1986) is used as a energy dissipation formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by the Leap-Frog scheme and compared with Watanabe & Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. This wave model is applied to a detached breakwater and compared with Watanabe and Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic model results to check the characteristics of reflected wave field around a detached breakwater. The distribution of wave height and we phase in front of a detached breakwater is more accurate than the Watanabe and Maruyama’s numerical results. The results from our wave model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. This model is applied to the Gamcheon harbor of pusan. the field observations were carried out at Pusan harbor wave station in 1986-1995 and the results were accepted as a design wave condition in this study. The wave height and wave period was measured by Dong-A university at one station in the Gamcheon harbor in 1996-1997 and used as a calibration criterion. The measured data were used as input data for the numerical simulation and also compared with simulated results. The numerical simulation shows a fairly good results which considering the effect of topographic characteristics and effect of narrow entrance due to two separated breakwaters in Gamcheon harbor. The wave distribution characteristics inside Gamcheon harbor is quite different with the offshore wave direction and wave period.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.50-62
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• 1989

Shoreline change of Haeundae beach was predicted by one-line model considering interaction of seawalls and longshore variation of wave height . Wave deformation was calculated by combined wave refraction-diffraction model . In this shoreline change model, empirical constants and offshore sediment transport rate are treated as calibration parameters, and the calculated results are in good agreement with the observed data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.65-71
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• 2014

In recent years, strong typhoons have passed South Korea almost every year and severe damages were incurred directly and indirectly. However, instances where wave and wind data were procured from the offshore approach path of the typhoon are very rare and thus researchers are experiencing difficulties in obtaining calibration and verification data of typhoon-generated wave modeling. This paper provides a synthesis of records of observations by the Korea Meteorological Administration and Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology on storm waves generated by the typhoons SONGDA, NABI, and SHANSHAN that passed from 2004 to 2006 in order to help researchers interested in typhoon-generated wave numerical modeling. Although the trajectories of typhoon NABI and SHANSHAN were east of the Korea Strait, a significant wave height of 8.3 m was measured at Namhyeongjedo located east of Geojedo. Moreover, an unprecedented significant wave height of 12.2 m was measured for both typhoons at a station 1.4 km away from Yeongil Bay breakwater. Meanwhile, a comparative analysis of data obtained with a ocean data buoy at Geojedo and a Directional Waverider at Namhyeongjedo showed maximum wave heights that were similar but considerably different significant wave heights.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.15-20
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• 2007

The harbor siltation by longshore sediment transports has become a serious problem on the East Coast of Korea. A reasonable prediction of the longshore sediment rate is important to approach the siltation problem effectively. In the recently developed 1-line model, the empirical constants of the sediment transport formula, which include the absolute quantity of sediment transport rate and the spatial distribution of breaking wave height by wave deformation, are treated as calibration parameters. Since these constants should be determined by the very long-term shoreline data, the longshore sediment rates are much more reasonable values. The method was applied to Hupo Beach, which has experienced heavy siltation. The authors also discuss long-term shoreline change using aerial photos and the observed wave-induced current patterns. According to the result, the SW-direction sediment transport rate was $146,892m^3/year$, and the NE direction was $2,694,450m^3/year$ at Hupo Beach for the last 11 years. The siltation in Hupo Harbor might be affected by the NE-direction sediment transport from Hupo Beach.