• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.211-221
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• 2022

The wave runup height is one of the most important parameters for affecting the design of coastal structures such as dikes, revetments, and breakwaters. In this study, SWASH (Zijlema et al., 2011), a non-hydrostatic pressure numerical model, was used to analyze the effect of reducing The wave runup height of solitary waves by submerged and floating rectangular obstacles. It was confirmed that the SWASH model reproduces the propagation, breaking, and runup of solitary waves quite well. In addition, it was confirmed that the wave deformation of the solitary wave by submerged and floating rectangular obstacles was well reproduced. Finally, we conducted an examination of the effect of reducing the runup height of submerged and floating rectangular obstacles. Reduced runup heights are calculated and the characteristics of runup height reduction according to the dimensions of the obstacle were analyzed. The energy attenuation effect of the floating obstacle is greater than the submerged obstacle, and it is shown to be more effective in reducing the runup height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.557-564
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• 2007

The effect of wave and current interactions on regular wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal is investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269-284]. The numerical simulations are conducted by constituting two numerical model systems: a combination of SWAN(a wave model) plus SHORECIRC(a current model) and a combination of REF/DIF 1(a wave model) plus SHORECIRC. A time dependent phase-resolving wave-current model, FUNWAVE, is also utilized to simulate the experiment. In the simulations, the breaking-induced currents defocus waves behind the shoal and bring on a wave shadow zone that shows relatively low wave height distributions. The computed results of the two model systems agree better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction do. However, it is found that the radiation stresses for standing waves are misevaluated in the wave models. In addition, the results of FUNWAVE show very good agreement with the measurements. The agreement indicates that it is necessary to take into account the effect of breaking-induced current on wave refraction when wave-breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.55-62
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• 2017

A nearshore current or a wave-induced current is an important phenomenon in a nearshore zone, which is composed of longshore, cross-shore, and rip currents. The nearshore current is closely related to the occurrence of coastal accidents by beachgoers. A considerable number of coastal accidents by beachgoers involving the rip current have been reported at Jungmun Beach. However, in studies and observations of the nearshore current of Jungmun Beach, understanding of the rip current pattern remains unclear. In this study, a scientific approach is taken to understand the nearshore current and the rip current patterns at Jungmun Beach by numerical computation for year of 2015. From results of numerical computation, the occurrence and spatial characteristics of the rip current, and the similarities between the rip current and incident wave conditions are analyzed. The primary results of this study reveal that the rip currents are frequently generated at Jungmun Beach, especially in the western parts of the beach, and that the rip currents often occur with a wave breaking height of around 0.5 ~ 0.7 m, a wave period of around 6 ~ 8 seconds, and a breaking angle of around 0 ~ 15 degrees.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.7-15
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• 2009

The aim of this study was to survey the effects of the beachface gradient on 3-D currents around the open inlets of submerged breakwaters. First, the numerical model was validated by a comparison with existing experimental data. This model is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve?Structure?Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D). Using the numerical results of this model, the 3-D currents around the open inlets of submerged breakwaters were examined in relation to the beachface gradient. Moreover, the wave height distribution and mean flow around them are also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the crest.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.68-75
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• 2019

A low-crested structure (LCS) is an excellent feature not only because it provides shore protection but also because it is fully submerged. However, in order to properly control waves, it is necessary to maintain a certain range of crest height and width in consideration of the wave dimensions at the installation area. According to previous studies, an LCS has some wave breaking effect when the crest width is more than a fourth of the incident wavelength and the crest depth is less than a third of the incident wave height. In other words, if the crest width of the LCS is small or the crest depth is large, it cannot control the wave. Therefore, when an LCS is installed in a large sea area with a great tidal range in consideration of the landscape, waves cannot be blocked at high tide. In this study, the hydraulic performances of a typical trapezoidal LCS with a constant crest height and a low-crested structure with an adjustable crest height, which was called a tide-adapting low-crested structure (TA-LCS) in this study, were compared and evaluated under various wave conditions through hydraulic experiments. It was found that the wave transmission coefficients of the TA-LCS at high tide were lower than the values for the typical LCS based on empirical formulas. In addition, the hydraulic performances of the TA-LCS for wave reflection control were 12.9?30.4% lower than that of the typical LCS. Therefore, the TA-LCS is expected to be highly effective in controlling the energy of incoming waves during high tide even in a macro-tidal area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.70-75
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• 2016

Recently, coastal erosion has been widely in progress and the erosion level becomes also serious in the world wide, espeically in East Sea in Korea. Since it would threaten the life, economics and security risk, it is necessary to much comprehend the reason why coastal erosion has occurred according to the geographical characteristics. Meanwhile, analysis about hydrodynamics of the solitary wave such as tunami in swash zone is needed for the best management practice of coastal erosion. Solitary wave is nonlinear wave and can be reproduced in the laboratoy scale by openning suddenly a sluice gate with water head difference, of which methodology was found in the literature, since it could be simply determined by a significant wave height. Thus, in this sutdy the generation of solitary wave was experimentalized using the sluice gate. Experimental conditions were classified by angles of a beach slope, a water level in a beach slope and a difference of water level between in a headtank and a channel bed. Two kinds of dimensionless analyses based from experimental results in this study were presented; the first analysis indicates nondimensionalization between the wave height and the water level in a beach slope in order to investigate characteristics of solitary wave approaching the beach. The second shows the other nondimensionalization between dynamic pressure and static pressure on a beach slope to investigate the relationship between wave breaking and wave pressure. Under the same conditions as laboratory experiments, the numerical results computed with a SWAN model embedded in FLOW 3D were compared in terms of wave height, and pressure on the beach slope, which shows good agreement with each other. Overall results from this study could provide fundamental hydraulic data for the reliabile verification of numerical simulation results about coastal erosion in swash zone caused by solitary waves.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.141-147
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• 2006

A newly designed floating breakwater made of Polyethylene with considering the introduction of new material for being harmony with environment and stability of the floater is developed for a marine ranching. In this study, the new concept in which incident wave dissipates its energy due to the vortex shedding by passing through the pipes and sheets is selected for wave breaking mechanism. Model experiment in order to te st its capability is performed for the regular and irregular waves in ocean engineering basin. Good capability to break the incident wave within the 6 seconds of period and 1 m of height is shown. Breaking efficiency for long period wave is not so good in regular and irregular wave. The results of this study will contribute to the design and construction of the floating breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.65-71
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• 1991

Many investigations of wave deformation without currents have been carried out experimentally and theoretically but, studies treating the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation are few. It is thus necessary to evaluate the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation after breaking. In the paper the wave height attenuation. the wave direction and the variation of mean water level are calculated in which effects of longshore current are involved. To assess the effect of longshore current on the wave deformation, factors above with longshore current are compared with them without longshore current by using calculated results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Manufacturing Process Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 2013

The safety and stability of 5MW class offshore wind turbine Jack-up platform was investigated through ocean basin experiment. For simulating the environmental condition of yellow sea in the South Korea, diverse waves, winds and currents were performed based on Froude's number. Regular wave and irregular wave based on Froude's number were applied to the wind turbine structure. In experiments, the height and period of regular wave type were scaled down as the 1:50 ratio of real wave condition. Irregular wave type was simulated with TMA(Texel Storm, Marsen and Arsloe)spectrum. The vertical reaction force, resonance period and wave pressure applied to multi-supporters of wind offshore structure were measured experimentally. Finally, the results showed that the capsizing situation of the offshore structure was generated by the severe environmental condition.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.280-288
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• 2019

A submerged breakwater is one of the coastal structures used to reduce wave energy and coastal erosion. However, a submerged breakwater has a negative aspect in that a strong rip current occurring around an open inlet due to a difference in mean water levels at the front and rear sides of the structure leads to scouring. Such scouring has a bad effect on its stability. In order to eliminate this kind of demerit, this study investigated an artificial reef of the overflow type with openings. We also developed a program where the flows around the artificial reef of the overflow type could be analyzed numerically. An unstructured grid system was used to cover the various geometries, and the level set method was applied to treat the movement of the free surface. To verify these numerical schemes, hydraulic physical tests were performed on the submerged breakwater and double breaking type artificial reef. Then, the wave height and velocity distribution around the reef were examined using the experimental results. Comparisons between the results of hydraulic and numerical tests showed reasonable agreement.