• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.168-180
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• 2000

In the Part I, the three dimensional model testing with NNW deep water wave direction gave the results such that the occurrence of breaking waves over the peak of Ear-Do caused very small wave height at the structure position. But the measured wave forces were rather greater than the calculated forces based on deep water wave height. Furthermore, It was also perceived that the time series of the forces looked like corresponding to the case that waves were superimposed by an unidirectional current. In the present Part II, the current is presumed to be a flow secondly induced by breaking waves, and an extensive study to clarify the current in a quantitative sense is performed through numerical analysis and hydraulic experiment. The results showed that a strong circulation can surely occur in the vicinity of the structure due to radiation stress differentials given by the breaking waves. It was also recognized that the velocity of the induced current varied with the magnitude of energy dissipation rate introduced in the numerical analysis. The numerical analysis was tuned adjusting the dissipation rate so that the calculated wave field could closely match with the experimental results of Part I. The fluid force (in prototype) for the optimal match showed approximately 2.2% increased over the calculated value based on the deep water wave height (24.6m) whereas the force corresponding to the average of the experimental values showed the increase of about 13.0%.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.401-412
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• 2008

Simulations of three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate wave force acting on a large cylindrical structure and consequent wave deformation, which are induced by bore after breaking waves. The numerical model is based on the three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with a finite-difference method combined with a volume of fluid(VOF) method, which is capable of tracking the complex free surface, including wave breaking. In order to promote wave breaking of the incident wave, the approach slope was built seaward of the structure with a constant slope and a large cylindrical structure was installed on a flat bed. The incident waves were broken on the approach slope or flat bed by its wave height. In the present study, all waves acting on the large cylindrical structure were limited to breaking bore after wave breaking. The effects of the position of the structure and the incident wave height on the wave force and wave transformations were mainly investigated with the concern of wave breaking. Further, the relations between the variation of wave energy by wave propagation after wave breaking and wave force acting on the structure were discussed to give the understanding of the full-linear wave-structure interactions in three-dimensional wave fields.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.262-272
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• 2020

A large number of studies on wave breaking have been carried out, and many experimental data have been documented. Moreover, on the basis of various experimental data set, many empirical or semi-empirical formulas based primarily on regression analysis have been proposed to quantitatively estimate wave breaking for engineering applications. However, wave breaking has an inherent variability, which imply that a linear statistical approach such as linear regression analysis might be inadequate. This study presents an alternative nonlinear method using an neural network, one of the machine learning methods, to estimate breaking wave height and breaking depth. The neural network is modeled using Tensorflow, a machine learning open source platform distributed by Google. The neural network is trained by randomly selecting the collected experimental data, and the trained neural network is evaluated using data not used for learning process. The results for wave breaking height and depth predicted by fully trained neural network are more accurate than those obtained by existing empirical formulas. These results show that neural network is an useful tool for the prediction of wave breaking.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

• Atmosphere
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.231-240
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• 2007

The flow regimes of continuously stratified flow over a double mountain and the effects of a double mountain on wave breaking, upstream blocking, and severe downslope windstorms are investigated using a mesoscale numerical model (ARPS). According to the occurrence or non-occurrence of wave breaking and upstream blocking, three different flow regimes are identified over a double mountain. Higher critical Froude numbers are required for wave breaking and upstream blocking initiation for a double mountain than for an isolated mountain. This means that the nonlinearity and blocking effect for a double mountain is larger than that for an isolated mountain. As the separation distance between two mountains decreases, the degree of flow nonlinearity increases, while the blocking effect decreases. A rapid increase of the surface horizontal velocity downwind of each mountain near the critical mountain height for wave breaking initiation indicates that severe downslope windstorms are enhanced by wave breaking. For the flow with wave breaking, the numerically calculated surface drag is much larger than theoretically calculated one because the region with the maximum negative perturbation pressure moves from the top to the downwind slope of each mountain as the internal jump propagating downwind occurs.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.116-122
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to examine the effects of shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters on 3-D wave breaking characteristics over them. First, the numerical model, which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), has been validated by a comparison with Goda's equation for breaking wave heights. And then, using the numerical results, the wave breaking points over the crest of submerged breakwaters have been examined in relation to the shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the wave height distribution and upper flow around submerged breakwaters have been also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.37-49
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• 2024

To date, numerous empirical formulas have been proposed through hydraulic model experiments to predict the wave breaker index, including wave height and depth of wave breaking, due to the inherent complexity of generation mechanisms. Unfortunately, research on the characteristics of wave breaking and the prediction of the wave breaker index for gravel beaches has been limited. This study aims to forecast the wave breaker index for gravel beaches using representative linear-based machine learning techniques known for their high predictive performance in regression or classification problems across various research fields. Initially, the applicability of existing empirical formulas for wave breaker indices to gravel seabeds was assessed. Various linear-based machine learning algorithms were then employed to build prediction models, aiming to overcome the limitations of existing empirical formulas in predicting wave breaker indices for gravel seabeds. Among the developed machine learning models, a new calculation formula for easily computable wave breaker indices based on the model was proposed, demonstrating high predictive performance for wave height and depth of wave breaking on gravel beaches. The study validated the predictive capabilities of the proposed wave breaker indices through hydraulic model experiments and compared them with existing empirical formulas. Despite its simplicity as a polynomial, the newly proposed empirical formula for wave breaking indices in this study exhibited exceptional predictive performance for gravel beaches.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.158-168
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• 2001

A numerical model based on the wide-angle parabolic approximation equation is developed for the accurate simulation of the directional spreading and partial breaking of irregular waves. This model disintegrates the irregular waves into a series of monochromatic wave components, and the simultaneous calculations are made for each wave component. Then, the computed wave components are superposed to get the wave height of irregular waves. To consider the partial breaking of irregular waves in the computation the amount of energy dissipation due to breaking is estimated using the superposed wave height. The accuracy of the developed model is tested by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurements reported earlier. In the case of non-breaking waves a considerable accuracy of the model is observed for both regular and irregular waves. On the contrary it is found that the accuracy is significantly degenerated for the case of breaking waves. Some analyses for the accuracy degeneration are presented.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.440-447
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• 2012

Numerical model experiments of wave transformation due to the reclamation and the construction of breakwater in case of 50 years design wave were performed using time dependent mild slope equation included shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. As waves propagate to the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by the bottom friction and wave breaking etc.. After the reclamation and the construction of 75 m length breakwater, wave height distributions in the lee of breakwater have the range of 29~128 cm. To make better the harbor tranquility the length of breakwater needs to extend more than 100 m. After the construction of breakwater, wave height in the lee of the structure was deduced over 80%.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.89-98
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• 2023

Analyzing the interactions of free surface waves caused by a submerged-body movement is important as a fundamental study of submerged-body motion. In this study, a two-dimensional mini-towing tank was used to tow an underwater body for analyzing the generation and propagation characteristics of free surface waves. The magnitude of the maximum wave height generated by the underwater body motion increased with the body velocity at shallow submerged depths but did not increase further when the generated wave steepness corresponded to a breaking wave condition. Long-period waves were generated in the forward direction as the body moved initially, and then short-period waves were measured when the body moved at a constant velocity. In numerical simulations based on potential flow, the fluid pressure changes caused by the submerged-body motion were implemented, and the maximum wave height was accurately predicted; however, the complex physical phenomena caused by fluid viscosity and wave breaking in the downstream direction were difficult to implement. This research provides a fundamental understanding of the changes in the free surface caused by a moving underwater body.