• Title/Summary/Keyword: wave and tidal action

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Analysis and Quantification of Seawater Infiltration by Wave Action in Coastal Zone (연안해역에서 파도에 의한 해수 침투이론의 비교와 정량화)

  • Cheong Cheong-jo;Choi Doo-hyoung;Kim Tae-keun;Okada Mitsumasa
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.4 no.4
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    • pp.3-11
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    • 2001
  • To know the seawater infiltration into tidal flat sediment in coastal area is very important, because it is significantly correlated with the infiltration and transportation of pollutants in soil, the supply of dissolved oxygen, nutrients and organic matter to benthic organisms for survival of benthic organisms and the seawater purification. So, we set up purpose to clarify the infiltration behavior of seawater by wave action in tidal flat, to clear the effects of slope of tidal flat and breaking wave height on seawater infiltration and to quantify the infiltration volume of seawater. For purpose, the seawater infiltration was studied with visualization method by using coloring tracer and transparent glass beads replaced as natural sediment in model tidal flat. Specific conclusions derived from this study are as follows. The semi-circular type infiltration of seawater by wave action into saturated sediment was a new infiltration behavior that was not considered in previous studies. The infiltration rate of seawater was increased with increasing of breaking wave height and slope of tidal flat. However, the effects of the slope was bigger than that of breaking wave height on seawater infiltration into tidal flat sediments. It was possible to calculate the infiltration volume of seawater by wave action in natural tidal flat sediment and in fields. Therefore, we can point out that wave action play an important role in the supply of dissolved oxygen, nutrients and organic matter to benthic organisms, transportation or diffusion of pollutants and seawater purification. So, we hope to be studied the supply of food to benthic organism, pollutant transport and seawater purification on the base of these results.

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Laboratory Study for the Identification of Parameters affecting the Penetration Behavior of Spilled crude oil in a Coastal Sandy Beach (해양에서 유출된 기름의 해변 토양 침투거동에 미치는 영향인자 규명 실험)

  • Cheong Jo, Cheong
    • Journal of Soil and Groundwater Environment
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.81-86
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    • 2003
  • Understanding the penetration behavior of the spilled oil is very important to remove itself and to minimize its impact on intertidal biological communities by earlier treatment of the oil. The purpose of this study is to clarify the effects of wave and tidal actions on the penetration of spilled oil and to evaluate main factors of oil penetration using a sandy-beach model. Infiltration processes into the sediments showed significant difference between seawater and crude oil. Seawater was infiltrated by both wave action and tidal fluctuation into the sediments in sandy beach. However, spilled crude oil penetrated into the sediments only by falling tides and not by wave action, and the first tide is most important for the penetration of stranded oil. Over 70% of bulk fraction in penetrated crude oil was concentrated to the top 2 cm sediment-layer when spilled oil volume was 1 L/$\textrm{m}^2$. Moreover, the penetration of stranded oil into the sandy beach sediments was strongly correlated with the oil viscosity affected by temperature.

Experimental Study on Effect of Stranded Oil on the Penetration of Particulate Matters in Tidal Flat (연안 조간대에 표착된 기름이 입자상 물질의 토양침투에 미치는 영향의 실험적 연구)

  • Cheong, Cheong-Jo;Lee, Young-Sik
    • Journal of Korean Society of Environmental Engineers
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    • v.27 no.10
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    • pp.1030-1034
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study was to clarify the penetration behavior of particulate matters by wave and tidal actions in sandy beach located in enclosed bay and to evaluate the effect of stranded oil on penetration of particulate matters. Experiments were rallied out using a model sandy beach facility. The particulate matters penetrated into saturated sediments by wave action from breaking wave run-up point with a semi-circular forming in low energy beach as enclosed bay. On the other hand, the penetration velocity of the particulate matters was to be faster according to the increase of slope and breaking wave height. The particulate matters by tidal action penetrated into the sediments at an angie of 45 degrees in the direction of porous water flow. The stranded oil completely blocked the penetration of the particulate matters into the sediments. These results indicate that the penetrated oil prevents the penetration of the particulate matters into the sediments and, therefore, results in the reduction in the supply of plankton, bacteria and organic detritus for the benthic organisms in the sandy beach.

Penetration Behavior of Spilled Fuel Oil C into Coastal Sandy Beach (해양에서 유출된 C중유의 토양 침투 거동)

  • Cheong Cheong-Jo
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.37-44
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    • 2003
  • To know the penetration behavior of spilled oil into sandy beach sediment is very important, because the penetration depth of the stranded oil into the sediments is one of the most significant information to know effect of spilled oil on biological communities and to set up cleaning method. The purpose of this study is to clarify the effects of wave and/or tidal action on penetration of spilled oil into the sediments and to clarify main factor in oil penetration using sandy beach model. Specific conclusions derived from this study are as follows. Spilled fuel oil C penetrated into the sediments only by falling tidal fluctuation and not by wave action on sandy beach environment, and the first tide is most important for the penetration of stranded oil. Over 80% of bulk fraction in penetrated fuel oil C was concentrated to the top 2 cm sediment-layer. Moreover, the penetration of stranded oil into the sandy beach sediments was strongly correlated with the oil viscosity affected by temperature.

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Experimental Study on the Stability of Dredged Soil Bed under Cyclic Wave Actions (파랑작용에 의한 준설토 지반의 안정성에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Kang, Yoon-Koo
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.20 no.4 s.71
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    • pp.43-49
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    • 2006
  • Detailed investigations were carried out on the stability of the dredged soil bed against wave actions, aimedat establishing the design method of artificial tidal flats using dredged soil. The soil was dredged at Nagoya port, Japan, and has a mean grain size of 0.013mm. Basic features of artificial dredged soil bed against wave actions were explained from a series of model experiments in a wave flume. The two types of section shapes were employed; one is a horizontal bed and the other is a sloped one. Changes of the bed profile, shear strength, grain size distribution and water content, according to the wave actions, were measured in detail. The cumulative effect of the wave actions, over about one week, was investigated. A dredged soil bed moves withthe wave actions with relatively small wave height. It should be especially. noted that the clay component is dissolved and flown out, away from the surface layer, and consequently the surface layer hardens, as if it is covered with sand. Wren the wave height is gradually increased, the bed is not liquefied and the shear strength of the dredged bed is increased by a wave-induced dissipation of pore pressures in the bed and a decrease of clay component by the wave-induced leakage.

Attenuation of High-Frequency Wave Energy Due to Opposing Currents

  • Suh, Kyung-Duck;Lee, Dong-Young-
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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    • 1993.07a
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    • pp.20-25
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    • 1993
  • In coastal waters, more often than not, waves propagate on currents driven by tidal forces, earth’s gravity, or wind. There have been a number of studies for dealing with the change of wave spectrum due to tile presence of current. Based on the conservation of wave action, Hedges et al. (1985) have proposed an equation which describes the influence of current on the change of wave spectrum in water of finite depth. (omitted)

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Geotechnical Properties of Sandy Tidal Flat and Stability of Artificial Tidal Flat (모래질 갯벌의 지반공학적 특성 및 인공갯벌의 안정성)

  • 권오순;장인성;이광수;염기대
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.127-137
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    • 2003
  • The researches on the construction of artificial coastal wetlands have been progressed in order to cope with the situation that the area of Korean tidal flat has been reduced due to several coastal developments This study, as a part of the project on construction of the artificial tidal flats, deals with the comparison of the geotechnical characteristics between natural tidal flat and artificial tidal flat, and is also focused on the stability analysis of tidal flats. Various laboratory tests were performed using disturbed and undisturbed samples, which were obtained from a sandy tidal flat in Korea. The stability of the sandy soils accumulated on the tidal flat was investigated by comparing the shear strength of soil evaluated from laboratory test with induced shear stress due to both current and wave action.

Development of a Numerical Model to Analyze the Formation and Development Process of River Mouth Bars (하구사주의 생성 및 발달을 해석하기 위한 수치모델의 개발)

  • Kim, Yeon-Joong;Woo, Joung-Woon;Yoon, Jong-Sung;Kim, Myoung-Kyu
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.308-320
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    • 2021
  • An integrated sediment management approach that includes the recovery of the amount of declined sediment supply is effective as a fundamental solution to coastal erosion. During planning, it is essential to analyze the transfer mechanism of the sediments generated from estuaries (the junction between a river and sea) to assess the amount and rate of sediment discharge (from the river to sea) supplied back to the coast. Although numerical models that interpret the tidal sand bar flushing process during flooding have been studied, thus far, there has been no study focusing on the formation and development processes of tidal sand bars. Therefore, this study aims to construct wave deformation, flow regime calculation, and topographic change analysis models to assess the amount of recovered sediment discharge and reproduce the tidal sand bar formation process through numerical analysis for integrated littoral drift management. The tidal sand bar formation process was simulated, and the wave energy and duration of action concepts were implemented to predict the long-term littoral movement. The river flux and wave conditions during winter when tidal sand bars dominantly develop were considered as the external force conditions required for calculation. The initial condition of the topographic data directly after the Maeupcheon tidal sand bar flushing during flooding was set as the initial topography. Consequently, the tidal sand bar formation and development due to nearshore currents dependent on the incident wave direction were reproduced. Approximately 66 h after the initial topography, a sand bar formation was observed at the Maengbang estuary.

Impacts of wave and tidal forcing on 3D nearshore processes on natural beaches. Part II: Sediment transport

  • Bakhtyar, R.;Dastgheib, A.;Roelvink, D.;Barry, D.A.
    • Ocean Systems Engineering
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.61-97
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    • 2016
  • This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.