• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권3_4호
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• pp.396-402
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of cotton fabric texture perceived between on-line(screening fabric) and off-line(real fabric), and to analyze fabric characteristics having an effect on the difference. The similarity of 55 various cotton fabrics perceived between on-line and on-line were measured showing simultaneously real fabrics and screening fabrics by 7-scale questionnaire. And the characteristics of cotton fabrics such as weave structure, thickness, weight, fabric density, stiffness, Hunter's L, a, b, and hue were measured. Cotton fabrics were classified into 3 groups by extent of similarity. There were no significant differences in weft density, stiffness, Hunter's L, a, b, and hue among 3 groups. But there were significant differences in weave structure, thickness, weight, warp density, and difference of warp ＆ weft density. The fabrics having large similarity were thick and heavy, had small warp density and difference of warp ＆ weft density, and distinct surface texture. The group having medium similarity included fabrics of medium thickness and weight, having weak surface texture, large warp density and difference of warp ＆ weft density. The group having small similarity, which the differences between on-line and off-line were large, included thin and light fabrics having smooth surface and large warp density and difference of warp ＆ weft density.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.15-25
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• 2007

As a part of the study for the materials development of compound feelings, therefore, this study investigated into the effects of the colors of warp and weft on the overall colors of fabrics, along with the visual changes of colors by the measuring angle of both warp and weft, by means of cross-dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics. First, the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics individually with the same color, the dyeing of PET fabrics followed by that of cotton fabrics resulted in a small difference in color than the dyeing in the reversed order. Second, in the case of the dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the color of cotton fiber, which is warp, gave much influence. In addition, the color change was remarkable among complementary colors, while it was negligible among adjacent colors. Third, in the case of dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the results were different by the measuring angle. When PET was fixed in green and cotton was dyed in ten colors, color-deepening was observed by the inclination in the direction of warp and weft without the dominance over all colors like cotton. When cotton was dyed in red and PET in ten colors, the color of PET appeared dimly in the horizontal case by the direction of the light, and red appeared as inclined in the direction of warp and weft. This is because of the dominance of cotton color over the overall color, since the density of cotton fiber, the warp of union fabrics, is higher than that of PET, the weft. Thus, this is to be considered in the selection of the warp's color. In view of the above results, the color changes are outstanding when the color of warp dominates the overall color and when the colors of warp and weft are complementary, in comparison with the case when the colors are adjacent. The colors also change by the measuring angle.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.151-162
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• 2006

This study investigated into the effects of the colors of warp and weft on the overall colors of fabrics, along with the visual changes of colors by the measuring angle of both warp and weft, by means of cross-dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics. First, the reflectance of polyester is higher than that of cotton over the whole wavelength. Second, the dyeing of polyester uses the disperse dyes and that of cotton uses fiber-reactive dyes, the differences in the features of dyes and the reflectance of fabrics cause the same colors to be perceived different by the angle of observation. Third, the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics individually with the same color revealed that the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics in one bath resulted in a small difference in colors between the two fabrics than the separate dyeing in two bathes. In the case of one bath, the dyeing of PET fabrics followed by that of cotton fabrics resulted in a small difference in color than the dyeing in the reversed order. Fourth, when cotton/PET union fabrics were dyed in ten colors, the difference in colors between the two fabrics was small; and due to the difference in the density of warp and weft of union fabrics, some difference was detected in comparison with the results of separate dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics in one bath. The latter did not produce the changes in color which was recognizable with the naked eyes. Fifth, when cotton/PET union fabrics were dyed in ten colors, any color change was not observed by the measuring angle, and the inclination in the direction of warp or weft resulted in the tendency of color-deepening. In the measurement of the latter, the inclination in the direction of weft resulted in the higher color-deepening than that in the direction of warp, due to the influence of weft.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.37-44
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to elucidate the effect of weight loss of polyethylene terephthalate(PET) fabrics on the mechanical properties such as bending and shear. In order to compare the effect of treatment machine on the mechanical properies of treated PET fabrics, PET fabrics were hydrolyzed with NaOH aqueous solution using Tank machine and Liquor flow machine, respectively. The results were as follows ： 1. The bending rigidity and shear stiffness of hydrolyzed PET fabric decreased markedly up to about 10％ weight loss regardless of treatment machines. At the above 10％ weight loss, the variation of these properties is nearly unchanged. In addition, the bending hysteresis and shear hysteresis also showed similar trend. 2. Weft density change of PET fabrics treated with Liquor flow machine decreased by 1pick/inch. It is assumed that this is attributed to the tension during the treatment of Liquor flow machine. On the other hand, the weft density change of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine is scarcely influeneced by the weight loss. While warp density of PET fabrics treated with Liquor flow machine had no change with weight loss, warp density of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine decreased by 6pick/inch due to the tension. 3. The bending rigidity and shear stiffness of PET fabrics hydrolyzed with liquor flow machine slightly higher than with Tank m/c at the above 10％ weight loss. It is assumed that this is caused by the increasement of the crossing pressure of warp and weft yarn and contact points of filaments in the yarns. Also, the bending and shear hysteresis of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine were higher than that of liquor flow machine.

• 한국지능시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국퍼지및지능시스템학회 2000년도 추계학술대회 학술발표 논문집
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• pp.335-339
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• 2000

In the weaving process, tension control of the warp is important. The variation of the warp tension cause irregularities of the weft density and low quality of the woven fabrics. Due to the fact that the warp tension varies in depending on the difference between take-up velocity and let-off velocity, it is necessary to regulate the velocity of let-off in relation to that of take-up for keeping the warp tension. Futhermore, the diameter of warp beam changes in the weaving process. The changing diameter of warp beam cause changing inertia of warp beam and the velocity of the let-off. It makes the control of such a system more complex. In this paper, we propose a fuzzy controller for the warp tension control. From the computer simulation, it was observed that a developed fuzzy controller has a better performance than that of conventional PI controller.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.95-106
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to research the design methods to express jacquard design using CAD. For this study, two design patterns were divided; in addition, each design pattern is applied to two different weaving types, single woven fabric and double well cloths. As a result, 16 samples were produced by applying 4 design methods (warp shrunk as half size design/weft shrunk as half size design - A, warp shrunk as half size design/weft original size design - B, warp original size design/weft shrunk as half size design - C, warp original size design/weft original size design - D) to the two design patterns with the two weaving types. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The most delicate design method was Method D. However, Method B which took half the time less than Method D was almost as delicate as the Method D on the surface. 2. Method B was judged as a considerably efficient method for time and cost. 3. Method D was considered as most suitable for elaborate parts and delicate lines. However, it was considered uneconomical since it took the longest time. 4. Mettled A took 2.5 times less time than Method D. Therefore, Method A was more applicable to producing high density design. 5. Method C is not considered as a useful method as it showed rough surface and took long time by applying high design zoom except intentional design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.82-90
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• 2009

This research was made to manufacture the fabric for interior uses by spinning a low melting mono 4 denier PET staple fiber with a soluble 1.4 denier fine PET fiber. The blended yarn has a thickness ranging from 10's to 14's, and the soluble PET fine fiber was dissolved to make a pore in the polymer. Thereby a snap property was decreased and a resilience property was improved to be suitable for a functional synthetic leather. In order to attain the optimum condition, a mechanical property according to fineness, and mixing ratio of low melting polymer, warp density, weft density and blending ratio, and a heat contraction ratio according to blending ratio were experimented. The warp density, 220 T/inch of fine denier PET and the weft density, 64 T/inch of thick denier PET were generated to 4/4 both twill weave fabric having constant tensile property and thickness.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.