• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권9호
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• pp.137-146
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• 2008

This study was conducted in order to spread out lower body 3D scan data of men in their twenties. The aim was to achieve slacks pattern with ease allowance through comparison with existing flat patterns. For conversion of 3D scan data into 20 pattern, reference lines were established by using Rapid Foam in 3D shape analysis software. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD were used to convert 20 pattern earned with straight posture of 3D scan data into slacks pattern by using Triangle Simplification & Runge-Kutta Method. In order to achieve this we needed to set a line 9cm below the hip line, to array vertex of each block to crease line while maintaining the horizontal line. And then we needed to set ease allowance in back crotch and to set waist circumference or hip circumference ease allowance in side seam of slacks. Results showed that long front crotch length can be achieved if 3D scan data is compared with 20 existing flat pattern. Slacks pattern that raise front crotch by about 1.5cm compared to back crotch and also possess ease allowance in back crotch area are great in appearance evaluation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.162-180
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to find the basic design factors that affect the changes in body surface lines caused by lower limb movements, thereby resulting in slacks that fit well regardless of whether the human form is static or in motion. Using unmarried female university students aged 18-24 as subjects, a total of 32 body surface lines (15 body surface total lines and 17 body surface segment lines) were measured in one static and 9 movement poses, The analysis first involved the calculation of the expansion and contraction rates per body part in body surface line in 9 lower limb movements, Second, a factor analysis was conducted using the expansion and contraction rates of these changes in body surface line. The results of this study are as follows, According to the factor analysis, basic design factors that affect changes in body surface lines comprised 8 types of factors as illustrated in fig, 2-fig, 9, which explained 79.2% of total variate for the variables studied, Factor 1, comprising the lower segment of center back leg line, center front leg line and inner leg line, and lower limb girth except midway thigh girth and ankle girth below hip girth, accounted for 30.3% of total variance, Factor 2, comprising waist girth, the total and upper segment of center back leg line and center tront leg line, and front and back segment of crotch length, explained 17.4% of total variance, Factor 3, the total and upper segment of lateral leg line at the center, accounted for 56.5% of total variance in accordance with Factors 1, 2, and 3, Factor 4 was the contracting upper part of lower leg between legscye girth and midway thigh girth, Factor 5 comprised the total and upper segment of inner leg line and posterior knee girth, Factor 6 was the total crotch length, Factor 7 was the ankle girth, Factor 8 was the abdomen girth.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.1-8
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• 1982

In this study, we attempted to make an original pattern of clothing for an abnormal type of figure, especially for the type of kyphosis. We measured the curvature of the spine of a woman with kyphosis with a Martin measuring instrument and a silhouetter in the following ways. First, we counted the rate of shrinkage of the standard lines drawn on the surface of the body according as the body moved. Secondly, placing the front and back darts, the front and back shoulder darts and the side darts according to“Munhwa”pattern, we made cubic cuttings of four moving postures as well as the standing one. Thirdly, we superposed the developed patterns of the standing and the moving postures, measuring the position change and the amount to the change of the darts, and compared them. The results are as follows: 1) In the developed pattern of a cubic cutting of the basic pattern and the standing posture, the neckhole became larger than that of the basic pattern, and the waist line was lowered than that of the basic pattern because the center back line was shortened due to the curved backbone.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2013

The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.47-63
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• 2005

The study with the subjects at 200 adult males in Busan in their 20s had a purpose at analyzing lateral body shapes to develop men's educational dress forms. The following are the conclusions: 1. Comparison at the Body Dimensions at Busan Male Adults in Their 20s and the 5th Survey at Korean Body Measurement In the comparison at the Busan and national body dimensions by way at Mollison's relative deviation, all compared items were under the deviation of 0.7. Therefore, the sample of Busan male grown-ups is understood io represent the body shapes of the average Korean male adults in their 20s. 2. Results of Lateral Body Shape Classification From factor analysis, seven factors were produced to explain 75.45% of all variables. Those 7 factors to compose lateral body shapes were hip prominence, back-neck sides, upper body's front-back depth, lateral upper body depth, hip-waist depth, front chest-waist depth, and hip and waist height. Cluster analysis revealed four characteristic lateral body shapes. Type 1 with the appearance rate of 11.70%, named D, had the greatest upper chest angle and tanterior neck lower angle. The front side was more developed. Type 2 with 33.51%, named I, was generally long and slender. Type 3 with 24.47%, named d, had the biggest depth differences in hip-chest as well as more prominent back hip. Type 4 with 30.32%, named q, had the biggest dorsal upper angle and the tiniest chest upper angle as the back area was a little bent.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.592-601
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• 2009

This study was conducted to find out the purchasing characteristics, the wearing practices and the preferring style of skirts. Also the comparison between recognized body type and actual body type for skirt was analyzed. The questionnaire was developed and administered to 179 women aged 20 to 59 in Busan. The women of 20th liked to buy skirts at the road shops and the internet shops but the 30th, 40th and 50th at the department stores and the discount stores. The main purpose of buying skirts was to coordinate with other clothes. The design of skirt was the most important factor of buying. The women of the 20th wore skirts without special purpose but the 30th, 40th and 50th wore those for social life. The women of the 20th liked to wear skirts with t-shirts and cardigan, the 30th with blouse and cardigan and 40~50th with blouse and jacket. As the age increased, the ratio of women who felt discomfort of skirts increased. Most of these women felt discomforts in the waist and abdomen part of skirt. The style of skirt that made up for the weak points in the body type was preferred. The preferred silhouettes of skirts were semi-tight and A-line. The preferred lengths of skirts were different from ages. Black was preferred color of skirts. There was a significant difference in recognized body type according to age groups. As the age increased, the ratio of women who thought themselves as thick waist type increased. Just only 43% women of total subjects recognized their body type accurately.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권3호
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• pp.113-121
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• 2011

This study developed a method of calculating dynamic wearing ease (DWE) to make patterns for coverall work clothing. The DWE was measured from 3D body scan data of women in their 20's (n = 10). The body postures adopted for measuring the DWE were sitting and deep bending postures. Three types of experimental patterns (A, B, C) were developed. The DWE was applied at the waist and hip lines of the pattern. The location and size of the DWE varied from one pattern to another. For pattern B, DWE of 8.8cm was applied at the back of the waistline. For pattern C, 5.3cm was applied at the waist for the center back line, and 3.5cm was applied at the under hip level. The comfort of the experimental clothing was evaluated in six body postures. The results showed that patterns B and C were comfortable at the crotch, shoulders, and arm pits. Pattern C was comfortable at the hip and crotch areas in the arms lifting-up posture and the stepping-up posture. The appearance and fit of the experimental clothing were evaluated by the panels. Patterns B and C fitted better than pattern A at the abdomen. The results suggest that DWE should be applied at the waist and hip levels for making coverall work clothing patterns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.145-155
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• 2002

In order to investigate how upper limb motion gives influence on clothing, this study measured tests by following standards: Front Vertical motion, Side-Vertical motion, and Horizontal motion. For this study, the procedures in the order of alphabet are applied. A. Eeach of testee's pattern was copied by the motion with a method of tight fitting technique. B. Analyzing each of the size-change on measuring item. C. Studying the moving aspects at each datum points. The results shows that the biggest change can be found in the following items. 1) In vertical motion of F4 (the length to shoulder point from A-point) 2) In horizontal motion of F5 (the length to front-width point from A-point), the check-result gained by checking the notice between motions shows that the most noticeable items are F4 (the length to shoulder point from A-point), F5 (the length to front-width point from A-point), F6 (the length to armpit point from A-point), B7 (the length to side-waist point from B-point). In result of the study of datum point's movement by motion, the items which were measured with the longest on straight-distance in vertical motion are the front and rear-shoulder, and the rear-shoulder, front-armpit in horizontal motion each. In the movement of each datum points by length, the check-result gained by checking the notice between motions shows that the most remarkable item is the front-shoulder.