• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1000-1009
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• 2013

Well-fitting riding breeches provide a comfortable ride. Horse-riding breeches should fit the lower body with patches located on the inside of hip and knees to prevent tears and slips. This study provides information about the fit of women's breeches using 3D human body scan data wearing commercially available two breeches according to posture. To get information about breeches fit, we measured the angle of waist line, the length, and the area of the breeches fit on four 20's women. This research showed the problem which was down for waist back line in the case of the horseback riding pose. The back waistline of the riding breeches should be raised compared to the front waistline; subsequently, an increased waistline angle results in less back waistline decrease. The breeches have plenty of length from back waist to crotch so the breech fit can be improved. The thigh circumference increased when riding in the front; therefore, good elasticity of the weft direction of the fabric is recommended. The length increase and the peripheral increase of the front knee significantly increased the surface area of the knee; consequently, knee patch material should be a two-way elastic fabric in all directions to enhance comfort according to riding motion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.602-614
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to suggest the proper ease of total crotch length concerning both appearance and comfort. The research processes as follows. 1) For the purpose of obtaining the necessary ease of slacks in body movement, experimental slacks of no ease of total crotch length were made. Three college girls putting on these experimental slacks were examined on their back middle waist lines using cross-cut method. 2) Experimental slacks for suggesting the proper ease consist of 7 types; slacks CO, Wl, W3, W5, W7, C3, C5. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the 7 slacks. The results can be summarized as follows. 1. As the leg-movement angle increased, the vertical space increased and the horizontal space decreased. There was negative relationship between vertical and horizontal space. And as the leg.movement angle increased, the area of space increased. The shapes of space showed the amounts of space and the direction of force by the movements. 2. The appearances of slacks C3, W3, C5 were better than the other slacks. The eases of the crotch were better than those of the waist line in appearance. And slakcs W7 was better than any other , ;lacks in comfort. When the amount of each part of eases was same, the comfort in eases of crotch was not as good as that of waist line. 3. In slacks, the proper ease of total crotch length was 3% and 5% of total crotch length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.102-115
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• 2011

This study is about reproduction of Yoseon-Cheobli excavated from Byun-su tomb in earlier Joseon Dynasty. There are three Yoseon-Cheobli in Byun-su tomb. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Based on the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, the most frequently recorded one, was reproduced by dying fabric with safflower and indigo plants. Through the research about their specific size, sewing method and construction, it have been produced in the following. First, the revealing that collar to be half-square and to compose the line in the center of collar. The width of the collar is 11.6 12.1cm. Second, the 21~22 pairs of waist lines that are 13~14cm in width fixed at intervals of 0.3cm. The method of making waist lines is twisting either fabrics or silk threads. Third, fine gathering around the part of the waist of skirt, and the size of fold surface is 0.2cm. Sewing method needs running stitch and backstitch. As the result of producing the cloth, it became to possess more ornamental features after transformation suitable to the new environment while the same remained functional features for everyday life such as a dressing shape, length of the bodice and curvy completion line of a collar strip.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2000

In this study 61private brand skirts and 67 brand name skirts were compared to see if the skirts from the different markets were suitable for both comfort and movement. The researcher chose size 66 skirts with a waist circumference of 68~70cm and hip circumference of 92cm. The resets are as follows. (1) In the waist measurement, the minor brand skirts were made at the maximum measurement (70cm) and the department store brand skirts were at the minimum (68cm). (2) Compared with the standard back split length of 9cm for a 48cm-long skirt, the minor brand skirts had a split of only 4.5cm, while the department store brand skirts were 3cm less (split length-6cm). From this result, we see that both of them are less practical than they are supposed to be (3) For the department store skirts, the hip circumference and waist circumference show a significant correlation to skirt length (p<0.05) and back split length (p<0.001). Larger waist & hip measurements equal longer split length. For the minor brand skirts, the length of the split shows a significant correlation to the depth of the hem-line Shorter split equals smaller hem depth. From these results, it can be concluded that the two groups of skirts do not differ except for back split length and waist circumference, but regarding the split length, both of them should be modified for else of movement and comfort.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.55-79
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• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.26-36
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• 2011

The study analyzes the development of slim-fit formal pants patterns for middle-aged men. This study suggests a new pattern that complements the problems of the existing fit on the basis of the standard nude size for middle-aged men with lower garments through the analyses of one-tuck pants patterns from 5 popular brands. As a result, the waistline is lowered by 0.8cm out of consideration for the waist circumference. The crotch extension is reduced by 1.5cm, the back crotch length is revised, the center back waist point is raised by 0.9cm, and the hip line is straightened. The slim-fit is perfected of the new lines from the thigh to knee-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.628-636
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• 1994

One vertical (medianus) and six horizontal (chest, bust, below bust, waist, abdomen and hip) sections of nine healthy pregnant women were examined every month by siliding gauge method during the period from 3rd to loth monthes of pregnancy. In the body changes along the passing months of pregnancy, which were observed by a follow·up measurement, there was little change on the posterior line when viewed using a vertical cross section. On the contrary, there was a great deal of increase on the anterior median line. Particularly, the degree of protrusion was great in the waist and ubilicus area due to pregnancy. At early pregnancy the distance from front to back is much shorter than side to side, however, as pregnancy progressed the front to back distance, on a horizontal cross section, is almost equal to the side to side distance.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.51-58
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• 1986

This study is to investigate the Function of sleeve for the construction of cuffs. Three measuremental items of sleeve cap high, length of sleeve and puff quantity of upper sleeve cap are compared between when the experimental man raises righthand static pose. The wearing test is done in sewing cuffs of either fixing up cuffs or not-fixing up cuffs, and in no cuffs. Three measuremental items are pulled length from sleeve end, pulled length from side waist line, and pulled dimensions from waist line. 1. The result according to the length and dimensions variation caused by a change of sleeve cap high. 2. The results according to the length and dimensions variation caused by a sort of sleeve length. 3. The results according to the length and dimension variation caused by the puff quantity of sleeve cap.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.852-862
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• 2008

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.