• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.632-644
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• 2019

This study presents an efficient clothes-sizing system for those experiencing obesity in old age with the aim of revitalizing the clothing industry for older obese people. The study targets 249 obese men aged 60 to 85 who satisfy a Rohrer index score of 1.6 or higher and a BMI (body mass index) of 25 or higher. Elderly obese males showed more obesity in the body based on the waist. In particular, those in their 60s were the most obese, and after reaching their 70s, characteristics of old age in which the stature was reduced and the limbs were tapered were shown. The clothes-sizing system was set to 5cm in stature, 5cm and 3cm in chest girth, 2cm in waist girth (omphalion), and 2cm in hip girth according to the KS standards. Through the two-way distribution of each section, the name of the section with a high distribution was given. Casual tops were selected from eight sizes, ranging from 155 to 170cm in stature and 95 to 105cm in chest girth. Suit top sizes were selected from eight sizes, ranging from 160 to 170cm in stature and 94 to 103cm in chest girth. Bottoms suggested 10 sizes distributed between 90 and 100cm in waist girth (omphalion) and 92 and 98cm in hip girth. According to the KS standards, the detailed size was divided into the basic part and the reference part.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1190-1202
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• 2009

A 3D body scan measurement (SM) is used as an alternative to physical measurements (PM) as the information for designing industrial products. This study compared the mean difference (MD) between SM and PM by gender and analyzed the causes of the difference. The data used in this study were the scan measurements and physical measurements of adults aged twenty to seventy years old of the fifth Size Korea survey. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The comparison of MD between men and women for all subjects: The measurement of the significant differences between men and women were height, neck base girth, chest girth, under-bust girth, waist girth, armscye girth, back length, and foot length. The causes of difference are the difference of body shape. 2. The comparison of MD between men and women by BMI groups: Many measurements had significant differences between men and women at normal weight and overweight but underweight. Some measurements had significant differences only at a specific BMI group because the body shape difference between men and women is revealed clearly in the group. The comparison of MD between men and women by age groups: The measurements that show significant difference at more than four age groups were neck girth, chest girth, under-bust girth, waist girth, armscye girth, and foot length. The height and abdomen girth had a significant difference in the age range of 20's and 30's. There were measurements that increase MD with an increase in age; under-bust girth and lateral shoulder length for women and lateral shoulder length for men. This comparison of MD between men and women provide the correct guidelines for the use of SM.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.353-359
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop the jacket pattern drafting method for Korean middle-aged women. The study was composed as follows : 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis : Two hundreds and forty four middle-aged women between the ages of forty five and fifty nine were measured on 52 items. 2. Development of new jacket pattern drafting method : Measurement items necessary to draft new jacket pattern were back waist length, bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, back interscye breadth, front interscye breadth, neck base girth, nipple length, nipple to nipple breadth, 1/2 posterior shoulder length and sleeve length. Basic jackets constructed from the experimental patterns were examined through the fitting test. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method : The sensory evaluations for appearance and comfort were applied to evaluate the new jacket pattern by comparing it with one of the conventional jacket patterns (Lee Hyung-Suk's). According to the result of sensory evaluation, the new jacket pattern was more positive.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.53-67
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• 1982

Physical measurements of 181 Korean elderly women, aged 60 through 79, living in the Seoul area, were taken in 1981 in order to analyze their body types and to study clothing construction according to their body types. The study was composed of 117 items in all; 35 items in measurements, 1 items in Rohrer index, 68 items in physical index to stature and bust girth, and 14 items in proportion, Coefficients of correlation among body dimensions were used. The results from this analysis are as follows: 1) The most significant changes in body dimensions in advanced age were the decrease of bust height and the increase of both abdomen girth and waist girth. 2) Distinct physical changes did not appear until advanced senescence(70~79 years of age). 3) In the three somatotype groups(thin, average, and plump) categorized by their Rohrer index, the dimensions that remained unchanged in senescence were back waist length and front waist length ; the dimensions that varied most significantly in senescence were the waist measurements. 4) As a result of the analysis of coefficients of correlation among the body dimensions of the 3 figure groups categorized by the Rohrer index, the fundamental dimensions for establishing the size of ready-to-wear garments of elderly women were the stature, bust girth and center back length in upper garments. 5) The result of the analysis of physical index and proportion of the 3 figure groups showed that the more plump a figure might be, the ratio of depth to width measurements increased; the back waist height was higher and trunk enlarged. 6) The 9 figure categorized by their Rohrer index and stature showed that the percentage of women in the category of“normal figure”decreased more in advanced senescence than during early senescence. 7) An analysis of variation of the 9 figure groups, the stature and other items for a short and thin figure were the smallest, and for a tall and plump figure, the largest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.955-968
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• 2010

Three-dimensional body data has been used in many industry fields including the apparel industry. This research used data from a study of the changes in lower body girth measurements from a 3D scan study of 25 female subjects aged 18 to 24 in four postures; a standing posture, a $120^{\circ}$ knee bend posture, a one pace stepping posture, and a sitting posture with a $90^{\circ}$ knee bend. We used the information on the difference between standing and seated measurements to adjust ease values for pants patterns an evaluation of the appearance, and the comfort of the pants. Waist girth in the sitting posture increased 8% compared to a standing posture and the hip girth measurement increased 7%. A basic pants pattern (pants A) with 2.4cm ease at the waist and 2.6cm ease at the hip was developed and a pants pattern (pants B) was developed using the rates of lower body girth change with a 5.7cm ease (8% change) at the waist and 7cm ease (7% change) at the hip. The appearance assessment items of pants A in a standing posture were higher than pants B. On the other hand, most appearance assessment items of pants B in a sitting posture were higher than pants A, especially the ease of pants back waistline and the appearance of the whole back. Comfort assessment items of pants B in both standing and sitting postures were higher than the comfort assessment items for pants A, especially the location of pants waistline, the ease of pants at the waistline, and the ease at the abdomen. In order to find the best level of ease for better appearance and comfort in both standing and sitting postures, 20 pants were constructed with ease values at the waist and hip in increments of 1.1cm in the range between the ease values of pants A and pants B. A fit test was conducted to compare the average appearance and comfort ratings that identified the pants with the best ease values at the waist and hip. The highest total mean was achieved in the pants with a waist ease of 4.6cm and hip ease of 4.8cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.117-128
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• 2003

For the advance of Korea's ready-made clothes industry into China, we need some information about the body types of the Chinese and the sizes of ready-made clothes. The purpose of this study is to prepare basic data about the reality and process of the size establishment of clothing sizes in China. The conclusions are as follows. 1. Clothing size establishment was made three times in 1981, 1991, and 1997. At present, the version of 'GB/T 1335-1997 Size' is used. 2. 'GB/T 1335-1997 Size' is composed as follows. \circled1 Based on the drop values of chest girth and waist girth, 4 (Y. A, B, C) body types of adult men and women were chosen. \circled2 Sizes contains Ho and Hyoung, 'Ho' refer to height (cm) and serve as the standard of length, while 'Hyoung' indicate chest girth (cm) and act as the standard of girth. \circled3 The size divisions of the 3 basic items for adults are 5cm (height), 4cm (chest girth), and 2cm (waist girth). So they are named '5ㆍ4, 5ㆍ2 size series', \circled4 For grading in dress production, approximate values to the means of the 2 basic items are called 'center types'.\circled5 Other necessary items for clothing design besides 3 basic items are named 'control items'. \circled6 For babies, children, and adolescents, no body type classification is established. Instead, size series are established according to body height.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.923-936
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• 2012

Apparel companies define their target customers to integrate consumers' needs into their product development processes. The sizing standards play a significant role in ready-to-wear garment business. Consumers' body build and sizes are different according to gender, age, and body type. The consumers' morphological feature of the one geographical area has changed with immigration, aging, and lifestyle change. In this study the way of defining body types in the standard garment sizing systems published in USA., UK, Germany, Japan, and Korea were compared. The results of this study show that most of the systems classified the body types by the index value. The chest-waist drop value was used for men's body type classification. Women's body types were defined by hip proportion. The hip-bust drop value was used for it. German and European garment sizing systems provide a wide range of men's body types. US men's garment sizes are developed for very conservative body type. US women's garment sizing system has had clearly defined women's body types. The Misses body types projected in the US garment sizing system had changed as women's waist girth got bigger compared to the past. In 2011 the US Misses sizes were divided into Curvy Misses size and Straight Misses size by the hip-waist drop value. The Curvy Misses sizes have smaller waist girth and larger hip girth than the Straight Misses sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.1069-1078
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• 2001

Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the measurements in a given size chart. The original pattern is graded and laid out for cutting before mass production. This study tried to classify body types for pattern grading of jacket by applying a concept of "drop"defined as the difference between chest girth and waist girth and the difference between hip girth and waist girth for pants. Data were collected through the stratified sampling method. 138 subjects were selected out of 1,290 subjects of our sample population. Findings were as follows : 1) For pattern grading of jacket, the cell with the chest girth of 96cm and the waist girth of 87cm had the highest frequency rate and body type was 87H type and the coverage of this type was 9.52%. Then, the size specification 87-96 was the center of distribution. H type had seven ones such as 72H, 75H, 78H, 81H, 84H. 87H and 90H. H type had 33 observations and frequency ratio of 26.19%. Same types could be graded up and down from the reference size for the age group. And this reference size became to the starting point for developing the grading system. 2) For pattern grading of pants, fatty types, H10 type had six ones such as 80H10. 82H10, 84H10, 86H10, 88H10 and 90H10. H10 type had 28 observations and frequency ratio of 20.29%. H6 type had 6 ones such as 84H6, 86H6, 88H6, 90H6. 92H6 and 94H6. H6 type had 27 observations and frequency ratio of 19.57%. If lower body types were classified as same ones, these types could be graded up and down proportionately.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.335-344
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to set up sizing system for knit trainning wears. Sample size was 198 females and their age range was from 15 to 24 years old. The body types for sizing system for knit trainning wears were divided by height and drop values. The results were as follows. 1. The height could be divided into three groups and they covered 97.5%. The Short(152cm) covered 27.8%, the Regular(160cm) 51.0% and the Tall(168cm) 18.7%. 2. The Medium hip(drop value 6) and the Large hip(drop value 12)had the high coverage rate of 45.5% and 46%, and the Small hip(drop value 0) had the low coverage rate of 8.6%. 3. For sizing system for knit trainning wears, the intervals of bust girth and hip girth were 5cm and 4cm. In the same size of bust girth, the intervals of hip high girth and waist girth were 1cm, the intervals of back waist length and sleeve length were 2cm and the interval of slacks length was 4∼5cm according to three height groups.