• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.562-576
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to semiotically reinterpret the Korean beauty and symbol inhering in the modern clothing of Korean designers as the context of traditional culture through regarding the clothing including hegemony that is controlling the Korean society and culture as a sign. The theoretical framework for analysis was derived from the semiotically analytic methods of F. Saussure and R. Barthes. The results of the study are as follows ; Korean images reflected in the modern clothing designed by Korean designers are humanistic image, environmental-friendly image, totemic and mythlogical image, equal and peaceful image, and metaphorical and metonymical image. Conclusively, developing a creative design based upon the interpretation of our unique and traditional culture, the clothing could be newly made of historical and cultural resources in the modern lives. If so, I think that the clothing will be not only the visual and decorative art, but also an information which contains implication of our culture, and finally can be established.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.30-49
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• 2009

This study was intended to research how such Japonisme affected the western fashion and to consider that the unique Japanese fashion was implemented in the western mode as the traditional aesthetic sense got jointed with the western culture together and was expressed as the modern Japonisme beauty. The beauty of 'Date' was the aesthetic sense created focused on the noble culture of public family. On the contrary, 'Iki', 'Wabi', 'Sabi' and 'Shibusa' is the Japanese lower middle class's universal living aesthetics. 'Kawaii' is influence on an animation, cartoon and character industry as well as the whole world’s fashion style as one of the common aesthetic sense of the world people in the modern time. That is, Japanese fashion designers expressed the human body with such the aesthetic sense by the design of shape, space, fusion, amusement through clothes. It could be concluded that they created an autonomous amusement’s design world over the visual beauty of human body.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

The crossover in fashion refers to the coordination of different items, each with a different atmosphere. In a broad sense, it is the mutual exchange across the existing areas, that is, the creation of a new style by disparate and opposite elements coexisting in a look. This paper studies typical features of the crossover shown in modern fashion based on sub-culture by examining the concept and formation factors of the crossover through social aspects rather than particular art modes to predict the current fashion and suggest a new direction. Crossover fashion appeared in social and cultural environments, has four characteristics : the visual discordance of sexes, the appearance of the lingerie look, the mixture of folk style, and the appearance of the reactionary mode. The crossover, appeared in sub-cultures and diffused into the public, may be considered the creation of a new sense of beauty and a possibility for the future. It is expected to keep expanding ifs range in fashion, since it is an expression of human will to restore liberal sensibility not confined to formality.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.70-82
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the trends and features of male fashion and hair style image and thereby, determine the relationship between fashion and hair styles, and thus, provide for some basic data for future studies about male hair styles as well as for new male hair style trends. For this purpose, relevant literature was extensively reviewed including some visual materials. The major references for this study were domestic and foreign books, journals and preceding studies about fashion and hair. The visual materials referred to for this study were domestic magazines specialized in fashion and hair, visual data supplied by hair product brands, Korea Beauty Parlor Journal, Beauty and Cosmetic Newspaper, Beauty Today, and such fashion special websites as $S{\cdot}F{\cdot}I,\;C{\cdot}F{\cdot}T$, firstview.com, fashionwide.com, etc. Based on the results from a questionnaire survey of master or Ph degree holders of apparel science, reputed designer were sampled and then, 80 works were finally sampled from their collections published between January, 2002 and April, 2005. As a result of analyzing the images shown in modern male apparel and hair style fashions by classifying them into natural, restored, folklore and eclectic ones, it was confirmed that both male apparels and hair styles have been reinterpreted in modern terms depending on social and cultural settings to be expressed as new styles, and in particular, that male hair styles have evolved diversely into new styles depending on fashion tendencies, while having been versatile in some relationships with their fashion tendencies.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.69-83
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• 2013

This research is to analyze costumes of Greek Mythology Gods in films using Morris' semiotics. In film "Clash of The Titans", Zeus' costume of shining gold armored body suit and long manteaux expressed the limitless sublime. The definite form contouring body shape of his costume also demonstrated classical beauty. Hades' costume of dark colored armor, long manteaux, and transformation via smoke also described the limitless sublime. The unbalanced and irregular shaped armor showed ugliness. In "Percy Jackson & The Olympians: The Lightening Thief", the armor and long manteaux of Zeus showed the limitless sublime. The beauty of his body and his sophisticated business wear indicated classical beauty. These features were also present in Poseidon's costume as well. The limitless sublime and ugliness are implied in Hades' look by portraying him as having a monster body with horns and wings, and his costume of punk look. In "Immortals", gods of Olympus wore clothing that was reminiscent of Egyptian times, which represented a time of strong royal authority, in order to expose the limitless sublime. Classical beauty was shown in the beauty of their body. Titans' costumes and look of non-human being were composed of black and red to present ugliness. The inherent meanings of Gods' costumes are death of god, patriarchy, and the good triumphing over the evil. The Greek gods are not held in the same reverence in the contemporary society. However mythology inspires lots of visual creations. The results help to accumulate a creative design database for fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.340-355
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• 1995

purpose of this study was to trace historically the causes of the visual inconsistency of seXual ilT'age in dress with versatile perspectives. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of sexuality in dress were precceded. To trace the factors of the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress, historical studies from ancient Egypt to modern ages were done. And then, the factors of the visual inconsist\ulcornerency of sexual image in dress were identified. The synthetic results were as follows; L The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress shows the phenomena that men introduce the traditional feminine image in dress (ex. X silhouette, skirts), whereas women do the traditional masculine image (ex. Y silhouette, pants), which arouse androgynous image in appearance. And, it also indicates that men or women wear the dress excluded the traditional masculine image as well as the traditional feminine image, which arouse neutral image in appearance. 2. The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress have been existed historically, from Egypt to modern ages. 3. The visual inconsistency of sexual image III dress was caus~d by various factors as follows; First, ideal beauty of the times which did not distinguish between masculinity and femininity resulted in the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Second, as a means of seeking pleasure, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was used. Third, as a means of expressing ideology, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was selected. Forth,in religious meaning,the visual inconsistency ofl sexual image in dress was appeared. Fifth,popularization of sports and occupational role made woman adopt the masculine image in dress in view of the aspects of functionalism. Sixth,Undevelopment of taloring contributed to generate androgenous image in dress.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.113-126
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the current use of mannequins that are designed to display Hanbok and put forward suggestions for improvement. In order to carry out the study, an analysis on the mannequins that are currently in the market was conducted along with a survey with professionals who are in charge of the display. The significance of the study is that it has gathered the opinions of professionals who are currently participating in the displays of Hanbok to lay the foundation for improvements. As Hanbok is a flat-pattern costume unlike the Western ones, the most prominent way to display is to lay them on the floor or hang them on the wall. Nevertheless, the mannequin displays are needed to show the beauty of Hanbok as the silhouette can only be completed when it is put on a body. A new type of mannequins that can portray the distinctive features of Korean beauty more effectively need to be developed. Although the museum and enterprise slightly differ in their preferences and requirements for the mannequins, both agree on the following criteria; the shape should be adjusted: the protruding breasts of the mannequin are not suitable for Hanbok, the body should be disassembled: all parts of the body should be separable and it should be flexible at the joints so that it can produce various poses, the face should represent the "koreaness" and the material should be soft. Based on these findings, we put forth the suggestion that a more suitable mannequin should be developed to portray the beauty of Hanbok.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to apply a concept of open structure to clothing design and to verify the characteristics found in the various types of clothing which has open structure. The literatures from various academic fields including philosophy, literature, social science, architecture, and fine arts are investigated to define the concept of openness and to analyze it from the perspectives both of the visual and of the moaning of openness. This paper is to identify the types and the characteristics of clothing by future intention, complexity, discontinuity of open structure. By closely examining fashion design after 1980s found in fashion collection publications and designer's websites, the results of this study are as follows: first, the concept of openness can be classified into two different levels, that is, visual and meaning, secondly, in clothing the concept of open structure is applied to the meaning side by future intention, by complexity and by discontinuity. Open structure through future Intention has new content and interpretation and must have the possibility of intelligence awakening, future guidance and basic contents. Open structure through complexity has secondary function exists concurrent with the shape key example is the smart clothes with the digital functions. It has functions of amusement, supplement and protective, and is future clothes which satisfies with health, welfare, desire of beauty. Open structure with discontinuity is clothes with dramatic changes in system, structures and states. Structure can be changed by silhouette, detail, or fabric, material, or dramatic and practical function as tools in terms of productions and environment. This study can help to formulate and to integrate the concept of open structure in clothing with various phases and enhance the value of clothes by showing an application of the concept of openness to the clothing in meaning level.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.96-111
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• 2012

This study is to analyze fashion phenomenon according to the concept of the characteristics of freewheeling to explain the de-constructive, eclectic, avant-garde tendencies in Contemporary Fashion. This study is to elicit the aesthetic characteristics through 400 pieces of visual data analysis from 2001S/S to 2011F/W that have the characteristics of freewheeling, nontechnical experiments do away with the classical form. The oriental ideas include the thoughts of different tastes that break the stereotypes according to the Western values and the pursuit of unconventional beauty. These also insist that everything in the world including human-being, nature and creation is not divided into two equal parts, and even beauty and ugliness originated from one. This study is to find the possibility of interpreting oriental aesthetics with open concepts that transcends the boundaries of full availability, unlike the Western values that accommodate the relative concept of the pursuit of diversity. Therefore, integrated and systematic approaches of oriental aesthetics that place much value on the coexistence of antithetic concepts are needed to understand the ambiguity of complexity and diversity in Contemporary fashion design.