• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.111-123
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• 2009

This study is to explore the usability of a pattern making software 'Looks tailor X' developed recently by the Digital Fashion in line with the cloth simulation software 'DressingSim'. When the software engineers develop software for clothes and clothing simulations, most often they lose touch of real-world craftsmanship of pattern making. As such, the software evaluation of the functionality and the usability is a crucial step in the field of virtual clothing. We carried out a detailed evaluation of the software via the process of making some basic types of pattern including tight skirts, pants, jackets, and one-piece dress. In this paper, we documented a step-by-step scenarios of making clothes using the Looks tailor X, and listed both the advantages and limitations of the software from the perspective of an enduser, i.e., a professional fashion designer. We also briefed suggestions on the refinement of the future software in the field.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.189-202
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• 2019

This study develops a bodice pattern for high school girls aged 17 to 19 that use virtual garment simulation. The study developed a bodice pattern based on the fit evaluation result for two selected bodice patterns. The basic formula of the design method based on the result of 3 times of fit evaluation is as follows: waist back $length=stature/8{\times}1.85cm$, waist front length=waist back length+bust/40+0.7cm, front bust girth=bust/2+4cm, back bust girth=Chest/2+3cm, armscye depth=Chest/4+0.5cm, back interscye length=bishoulder length -1.2cm, front interscye length=back interscye length -1.2cm, front neck width=back neck width -0.3cm. The developed bodice pattern used Bishoulder Length as a criteria for the calculation formula of back interscye length, and back interscye length as a criteria for the calculation formula of front interscye length. The fit evaluation showed the relevance of the bishoulder length, front interscye length, and back interscye length based on a comparison of the calculated figure. A bodice pattern with great body suitability and fitness to high school girls was developed through 3D virtual garment simulation that calculated the application of body proportion to width. This study only analyzed the evaluation result of a virtual model only in a representative form; however, a pattern study is also proposed to compare and analyze the design methods of patterns by body type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.64-80
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• 2013

A new technology of fashion show is opening the digital era and an imaginary fashion show is now arising as a new form of fashion show which allows one to enjoy a collection through the monitor without holding a real fashion show. Digital fashion show allows designer to create infinite ideas by articulating the designer's concept through not only garments but also other factors. In this research, We will analyze cases which are mixtures of digital technology and fashion show and will suggest a new paradigm of fashion show by producing an imaginary fashion show which cannot be easily articulated in an ordinary real fashion show, articulated by garments created by digital technology and graphic effects. The program used for this study is 'DC Suite 2.0' developed by Physan and Digital Clothing Center of Seoul National University, available for 2D pattern production and 3D simulation. In addition, in order to enhance representation of the visual effects, Maya's Qualoth and V-ray program which could be compatible with 'DC Suite' were used to make 3D digital fashion show.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.117-129
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• 2022

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.103-120
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• 2012

The study aimed to evaluate the appearance of the men's work clothes jumpers developed to suggest the prototype work clothes jumper patterns by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology. The 3-D simulated clothing images considered the upper body features of men in the age range between 20 and 59 in South Korea. A questionnaire survey conducted previously suggested a basic jumper style with shirt collar and snap opening cuffs for the heavy industry workers; and discomforting parts of the work clothes jumper of the subject workers have been referred to for the experimental jumper appearance test. Besides, defining the measurements of men's upper bodies enabled to generate the men's 3-D virtual models representing each age group's average body feature. The significant body measurement factors for men's 3-D body modeling and jumper pattern-making were stature for the height factor; chest, waist and hip circumferences for the circumference factor; waist back, hip and arm lengths and interscye front/back for the length factor; and back neck breadth for the breadth factor and armscye and scye depths for the depth factor. The men's body measurements of 30's were implemented to three experimental jumper pattern-making methods, i.e. the 1st method using the relations based on stature and chest circumference; the 2nd method using the direct body measurements; and the 3rd method adopting the maximum ease amount of given body measurements whether relations or direct measurements except the direct measurement of scye depth. A comparison among the three experimental jumpers' simulated images highlighted that the appropriate ease amount of the jumper gained higher scores in terms of the jumpers' front, side, back and sleeve parts and the total silhouettes. Therefore the 3rd experimental jumper was finally selected for the heavy industry workers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.93-106
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• 2023

The study is to develop and present a leggings pattern that is suitable for the human body by using a standard body type avatar for a female in her 30s. As a research method, the average body type was selected from adult women in their 30s, and the appearance was evaluated using the CLO software program. The data analysis of this study compared the dimensions and shape of each part by legging. The leggings pattern suggested based on the above research results was determine to be a total length of 80.6cm and hip length of 24cm, and the knee length was set by dividing the legging in half from the waist to the hem and then adding 5cm. These figures were evaluated higher than Company D in terms of the adequacy of the upper part of the front and rear plates of Company A as well as the adequacy of the knee lines. Company A's figures were applied and corrected. For the front plate, the waist circumference was divided by 4, and 3.5cm was removed, and the hip circumference was set by dividing the hip circumference by 4, and 3.8cm was removed. In the appearance evaluation results Company D was highly evaluated in the suitability evaluation of the waist and hips, and the waist and hips were set using the pattern of Company D. The length of the front panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 4 and adding 1.8cm to the length, and the length of the back panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 3 and adding 8cm after dividing the hip circumference by 0.8cm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2012

This research was analyzed regarding comparing features of expressions between clothes in movie, , and cyber clothes that were made by Marvelous Designer2 which is a design CAD. This research was studied to experiment an expressing possibility of clothes simulation software which was developed currently. Therefore, we picked clothes that are good at movement and detail in the movie. The dress theory of the renaissance which is the period background of movie, was considered and studied as pattern, silhouette, material, color, detail and animation. The movie's dresses are made with 3D virtual and compared so 3D virtual clothes's benefits and weaknesses can be analyzed. As a result, we found that 3D virtual dress can show the real movie's feature accordingly with current developed IT standard. This will assist a development in fashion industry and become a new indicator for 3D movie clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.62-73
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• 2015

The aim of this research is to propose the final shirt design modified for new senior women that fulfills their emotional and physical needs. The modifications were based on the results of in-depth interviews and literature search, and the study was conducted in order to understand the desires and preferences of senior women, as consumption of outdoor-wear by the group continues to increase. To develop the design of outdoor-wear that satisfies the physical and emotional qualities and preference of the new senior women, six different designs with lines, combined materials, as well as materials that were layered, pleated and draped were proposed using virtual-dressing simulation software. Then, the modified designs were derived from the six original designs by reflecting the opinions collected in the in-depth interviews with eleven women in their 50s. The responses in the interviewed showed a preference for lines, pleats and layers, as these features made the clothes look trendy, gave it a slender-look, and improved the body shape of the women. As the color is the critical factor for outdoor-wear, there was an overwhelming preference for primary colors by the women, which was in contrast to their color preference in general clothes. A sleeve design modification was proposed to convert the half-sleeves to 3/4-long sleeves in order to account for changes in body temperature at menopause, and to satisfy the aesthetic needs for covering wrinkles. Research of new senior outdoor-wear designs will help segment and differentiate strategies for the increasingly fierce competing outdoor market, as well as l provide directions in the design creation process using the simulation of 3D virtual model.