• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.881-891
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• 2021

This study proposes a simple drape measurement method for the 3D virtualization of garments. The proposed method uses angles or disks of different diameters to evaluate the drape properties easily. We divided 710 fabrics into ten groups based on the drape coefficient, of which 49.6% had drape coefficients of 30 or less. The drape properties were measured to classify the groups into smaller clusters using the angle formed when the center of the fabric was fixed. Accordingly, three clusters were formed for 60° and 100° angles. A method was devised using ten disks of different diameters to classify the remaining two clusters, except the cluster containing only the D10 group (D1-D5 and D5-D9). Three criteria-grade match, a sum of deviation, and standardization of deviation-were used for the classifications. The discriminative ability between groups was high for D1-D5 with disks with 24.0 and 25.5 cm diameters. Furthermore, a disk with a diameter of 16.5 cm was effective for D5-D9. The three-dimensional drape shapes were unique for the ten groups, which can be utilized as fundamental data for 3D virtualization.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.117-133
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to compare with shopping behavior and satisfaction of who have visited Dongdaemun and Myeongdong and to provide the fundamental data for differentiation strategy of two fashion trading area. The survey was carried out targeting shoppers who were in Dongdaemun and Myeoongdong and then a total of 778 questionnaires were used for the data analysis; frequency, t-test, chi-squre independence test using SPSS. 20. The results of this study were as follows. Main shoppers in Dongdaemun were the teenagers and twenties, and in Myeongdong were twenties and thirtys. The shoppers who have visited Dongdaemun significantly considered 'store factor' such as store size and comfortability, store interior, store location and accessibility, and 'product factor' including material and quality, design, formfitting, and various sizes, while Myeongdong visitors thought 'promotion factor'such as business hours, one stop shopping, sale and event etc. as important factor. The degree of satisfaction for marketing mix of Myeongdong trade area was higher than Dongdaemun's one. The case of impulse buying in two trade area was not high, while intention to revisit Dongdaemun and Myenongdong was all higher than average. Consumers were more intended to recommend Myeongdong over Dongdaemun to others.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권6호
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• pp.978-985
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• 2021

This study aims to propose a prediction model for the drape coefficient using artificial neural networks and to analyze the nonlinear relationship between the drape properties and physical properties of fabrics. The study validates the significance of each factor affecting the fabric drape through multiple linear regression analysis with a sample size of 573. The analysis constructs a model with an adjusted R² of 77.6%. Seven main factors affect the drape coefficient: Grammage, extruded length values for warp and weft (m_warp, m_weft), coefficients of quadratic terms in the tensile-force quadratic graph in the warp, weft, and bias directions (c_warp, c_weft, c_bias), and force required for 1% tension in the warp direction (f_warp). Finally, an artificial neural network was created using seven selected factors. The performance was examined by increasing the number of hidden neurons, and the most suitable number of hidden neurons was found to be 8. The mean squared error was .052, and the correlation coefficient was .863, confirming a satisfactory model. The developed artificial neural network model can be used for engineering and high-quality clothing design. It is expected to provide essential data for clothing appearance, such as the fabric drape.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.474-485
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the determinants and elements to enhance Korean international competitiveness, employing Porter's(1998) Diamond Model. Half of the 500 leading apparel exporters that were members of the Korea Apparel Industry Association in 2003 were selected as the target of this research. From May to June of 2003, survey questionnaires were sent to executives of these 250 companies in person or by telephone, e-mail, or fax. Seventy questionnaires were used for the final data anlysis. The items used were Reliability, Categorical Regression, and Frequency, using SPSS 11.5. The results were as follows: First, as a result of analyzing the influence of international competitiveness in Korean apparel industry, the firm's strategy, structure, and rivalry was the most influential factor. Others were related and supporting industries, government, chance, demand conditions, and factor conditions. Also, the elements that affect Korean international competitiveness were listed as the level of price competition in foreign markets, the level of labor cost, export marketing capacity, and exchange fluctuation. The most important element to improve the international competitiveness of the Korean apparel industry was a demand growth rate of the overseas markets(Demand Conditions), followed by the level of the labor costs(Factor Conditions), the capability of internationalization(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry), the change of currency(Chance), the quality and management of products(Demand Conditions), the capability of planning products(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry), free trade from 2005(Chance), and global sourcing strategy(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry). Korea's main rival country in apparel related and supporting industry factors is China. However, Korea has a higher level of technology development, quality, and price level than China.

• 복식
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• 제65권8호
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• pp.136-150
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• 2015

The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.51-68
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• 2020

In response to the South Korean government's trade diversification policy, the New Southern Policy, research is needed into the large population of Muslim fashion consumers who live there. Currently, veils worn by Muslim women are becoming a part of fashion collections as a style choice not just as a religious requirement. As such, the aim of this study is to investigate the fashion characteristics of the Southeast Asian Hijabistas. To do this we investigate the activities and the meanings of recent changes in the Southeast Asian fashion market, we also take a look at the Hijabistas who lead these changes. This is carried out as a theoretical study via literature review. In addition to this research, we selected 6 Hijabistas from Indonesia and Malaysia and analyzed 204 of their SNS photos. The results showed that the sportive image was popular; in terms of veils, hijabs and turbans were most popular; while pants and T-shirts dominated the clothing choices. Black and neutral colors were most popular but a variety of colors and tones were represented. In terms of fabric patterns, most of the choices were solid with no patterns. In terms of the types of veil used, in order of most to least popular were: hijabs covering down to the neck, turbans, and hijabs covering down to the chest. It was found that the Hijabista in Indonesia and Malaysia prefer an open, trendy fashion style. In conclusion, it was found that the Southeast Asia Muslim Fashion community are utilizing hijabs to express their identity not only as a Muslim and but also as a fashion item.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.127-144
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to clarify the phenomenon and characteristics of fashion in before Orientalism by examining the environmental changes and factors of East - West cultural exchange from the 16th century to the 18th century. To this end, this study examines the development of political and diplomatic relations, the growth of economy and trade, the investment of culture and arts, and the development of industry and technology. The research method used was the analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; the characteristics and phenomena in fashion in before Orientalism were symbolism as a privileged whole, applying to special clothing area, variety and splendor of fabrics, change of costume design, and a trend of exotic taste. Before Orientalism, the perspective of Orient in Europe can be seen as having the positive aspects cause of developing fashion and a negative aspect coming from an incorrect understanding and a bias.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.41-54
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to trace the development of cotton Early Chosun Period by examining the historical literary sources : such as production of cotton various uses of cotton trade with other countries The developement process of cotton fabrics during this period can be divided into three stages. The first stage which can be discribed as a settling period lasted 27 years from A.D. 1392 to 1418. In this stage cotton fabrics were just about to be used as fabrics for popular clothing. The second stage which can be discribed as a developmental period lasted 50 years from A. D.1418 to 1468. In this stage cotton fabrics were mainly produced in the southern parts of the country which are Kyungasng-Do, Choongcheng-Do and Jeunla-Do. And cotton fabrics were used not only by the common people but also by the royal family. The third stage, that is the last one was an extensive period and lasted from A.D.1469 to 1592. In this stage as the demand for cotton fabrics greatly increased the production from southern parts of the country fell in short of the supply needed. Therefore the production was extended to the northwestern parts. In addition cotton fabrics finally came to be used as money to value the goods.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.595-604
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• 2014

Tiffany & Co. had been recognized so highly in Korea even before its official advance to the country in 1991 that a successful jewelry company was called 'Korean Tiffany'. The purpose of this study was to explain how American brand Tiffany had been spread and recognized among Korean people by analyzing related articles and advertisements during the period from the Liberation to the 1989. The research method used in this study was the articles of newspapers and relevant literature. This is the result that, with the run of movie 'Breakfast at Tiffany's in Korea in 1962, the trade name and trademark of Tiffany were used illegally not only by jewelry traders but also by other businesses. Other luxury jewelry brands in the same period could not enjoy indirect advertising and spillover effects as good as Tiffany. As a result, a successful jewelry company was called 'Korean Tiffany' in 1989, and the expression is still valid in the country.