• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.239-262
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• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.103-113
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• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.336-340
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• 2004

This is the result of the comparison of the number of jeans, colors, images, opinions when it was purchased, shapes according to the gender of persons in jeans. According to the gender, male students had 1.64 jeans(46.3%) and female students had 2.09 jeans(53.7%) on the average. Male students selected colors of jeans which they don't have, but want to wear once in the order of blue(3.7%), red(21.0%), white(24.1%), black(25.6%), and others(25.6%). Female students selected colors in the order of blue(3.2%), black(15.6%), red(24.8%), white(27.7%) and others(25.6%). In case of the general image about jeans, male students thought the jeans as masculine(1.2%), sexy(3.1%), unisexual(3.2%), active(23.6%), young(29.8%), and comfortable(36.5%) and female students thought it as masculine(0.3%), sexy(3.5%), unisexual(10.4%), young(21.9%), comfortable(28.1%) and active(35.8%). Male students considered torn or holed jeans ill-mannered(10.7%), delinquent, (20.7%)trendy(21.0%), comfortable(22.9%), and dandy(24.7%). Female students think it ill-mannered(3.4%), delinquent7.1%, trendy(17.4%), comfortable(21.1%), and dandy(50.9%). When they purchase jeans, male students choose according to trends(17.9%), don't consider design(19.5%) and look for their own styles(62.6%), female students didn't consider design(5.2%), choose according to trends(22.0%), and look for their own styles(72.5%). The designs of jeans which they usually wear were bell bottom(1.5%), wide-shaped(7.4%), baggy(17.5%), straight-shaped(73.6%) in case of male students. on the other hand, in case of female students, baggy(10.2%), wide-shaped(11.0%), bell bottom(17.0%), and straight-shaped(61.8%). The designs of jeans which they didn't have but want to wear once are wide-shaped(10.1%), bell bottom(13.2%), baggy(20.9%), and straight-shaped(55.2%) in case of male students. On the other hand, females students want to wear baggy(11.6%), wide-shaped(15.0%), straight-shaped(27.6%), and bell bottom(45.8%). The above-mentioned findings illustrated that both male and female students regarded blue as the original color of jeans, but they wanted to wear jeans in colors other than blue. In the past, jeans were considered masculine and unisex, but they viewed jeans as an apparel that was comfortable to wear and made it easier to move. Female students had a higher tendency to be fashionable than male students, and their preference for jeans was consequently different. Jeans manufacturers should take those characteristics into account to produce products in different colors and form.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.113-124
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• 1996

This research was designed to find out what is a distictive feature of the design elements of Korean women's costume and its influence by analizing the trend of Korean women's constume during the period of 1890 and 1995. The research was analized by a total of 854 random samples of clothing styles collected from materials in the museums and from articles of three leading newspapers and one of the best women's magazines in Korea. The changing trend of Korean women's costume was found out to be as follows: 1. In around 1910s, the trend of Korean women's costume has been changed into two-tier structure of both Korean and Western styles, and the typical and traditional Korean women's street wears such as 'Chang-ot' and 'Tsdechima' have been gradually diminished. 2. From 1920s, length of the Korean skirt, which was unnecessarily long and inconvenient, has been getting shorter for the convenience of walking. In addition, Korean women's underwear has become simplified, and sports wear could be seen for the first time in Korea. 3. During 1960s, the Western clothing styles have been increased rather than Korean styles as the street wear of the Korean women. 4. In 1970s, blue jeans, mini-skirts and casual wears have become a trend or fashion for women in Korea. 5. In 1980s, a fashion of unisex mode has arrived in this country, and from the year of 1987, wearing of panties among the Korean women has been increased rather than skirts wearing for the street wear. 6. During 1990s, various forma of complex styles came into being in such styles as so-called 'orange class style,' 'protruding navel T-shirts' and 'runner wear speedy.' From mid-1990s, Korean women have turned out to prefer the cute and light costumes by placing emphasis on the image of intellectual, professional and functional wears. The changing special feature of the Korean women's clothing designs could be distinctively observed during 1960s as the modernization policies in Korea have been processed during the period. The clothing trend before 1960 was to change and to solve problems of inconvenient and impractical wears, but the trend after 1960 was seen as a change to confirm a trend of the world fashion. From mid-1990s, however, preference of Korean women's self-conceited conception socially and an unquestionable changing pattern of Korean women's life.