• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.50-51
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• 2001

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1206-1217
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• 1999

This study is focused on 'mysticism' in fashion which is recently marked as one of the cultural phenomenon emerging at the end of the century, First of all the concept of 'mysticism' and 'occultism' are reviewed to define the mysticism in fashion. Mysticism as a cultural phenomenon is also examined in historical and social context. With these theoretical basis articles which were publshed in 1990s from Korean newspapers and magazines which reported cultural phenomenon related to mysticism are analyzed and categorized. Finally these categories are applied to fashion phenomenon and 'mysticimsm in fashion' is analyzed and clearly examined as a fashion trend. As a result mysticism in fashion that has arose as an end of the century phenomenon within the historical and social context could be categorized into five groups such as 'primitive religion' ' Christianity ' 'oriental philosophy' 'universe' and 'magic and witchcraft'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.59-73
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• 2001

This paper is to examine the meaning of activities of a number of artists who belong to Constructivism in the fashion design area during early twentieth century. After Russian Revolution, the artists like Nadeshda Lamanowa, Ljubow Popowa and Warwara Stepanova decided to devote to practical art area for many People. It's very meaningful for them to jump into real work places like a textile mill and a clothing workshop instead of staying in fine art area. Constructivism is more related to social interest rather than individual thing. The artists tried to apply their modeling principles in fine art to dress making. We can see the geometrical lines and shapes and big differences In colors and material in their dress. The artists had also shown personal tastes to dress works. This idea of togetherness with their time and even to create the style of it. was very renovative at that time and gave an influence on the later styles.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.225-235
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to find out the changes for the first birthday's costume in westernizing Korea society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analysed the related literature for the first half the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 136 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, first birthday's costume for girls dressed up was more different than those for boys. But first birthday's costume items for boys were more than those for girls. Generally first birthday's costume consists of Bokkon Jeonbok Jeogori(Sackdong) and Baji for boy's, Chima and SackdongJeogori for girl's. Because the meanings and look of Hogun, Durumagi, Sagusam, Busun and Baeza are good, those items might be to used for first birthday's costume in the future. To establish better first birthday's culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people involved in related business for traditional costume. Because most of first birthday's costume are usually borrowed for photographs. Also item and design for the first birthday's costume should be studied in order to improve traditional cultural products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.39-48
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to examine closely the aesthetic characteristics featured in dandy's costume. Dandy was term used on for a man excessively fond of and overly concerned with clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, and count d'Orsay, who greatly in gluenced men's fashions in England and France. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century George Brummell, the prototype of the dandy, made upper-class English country clothes, especially riding clothes, into the height of men's fashion in the city. In the early 1800s the alterations he made, particularly with regard to fit and cut, established these as the critical signifiers in men's dress. Brummell's style, particularly for day, was essentially restrained and disciplined, and set a standard for sober discretion, appropriateness and taste which governed men's clothing until well into the twentieth century. The aesthetic characteristics expressed in dandy's dress are the aristocratic superiority of mind, the restrained beauty in absolute simplicity, and the pursuit of the individual beauty. Brummell's kind of dandyism instigated the idea of establishing a new kind of aritocracy, an aritocracy based on talent. Over the years this kind of cultural and social coup has been played out in different ways but has remained, like the twentieth-century concept of the avant-garde, a fundamentally male preserve. He advocated unobtrusive darkblue fitted coats, cream-colored trousers, elaborately tied cravats, absence of showy fabrics or excessive decoration, and impeccable grooming. The status of the perfectly tied cravat as the hallmark of genteel elegance, as the last keystone of Fashion's arch, had been established by Beau Brummell.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.57-63
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• 2019

Due principally to the desire to seek lower production costs, the bulk of the world's textile and clothing manufacture migrated to low-cost zones, mainly outside Europe, over the course of the late-twentieth century. In the early-twenty-first century, fast fashion became a dominant force worldwide, with 'Western' retail buyers hunting cheaper deals from clothing manufacturers (mainly in Asia), and with occasional disasters not changing matters beyond the duration of a fashion season. Progressively, seams became narrower, cheaper raw materials were used and durability was no longer an aim. Why bother to do otherwise? This was what the 'Western' consumer wanted: fashion to be worn only a few times and then discarded, despite the fact that vast amounts of human, technological and financial resources were wasted in such a quest. By the end of the second decade of the twenty-first century, the production of textile and clothing products continued to contribute substantially to global warming. This paper reviews briefly the current conditions of manufacture, and argues that the research agenda should be focused on addressing the implications of a progressively changed focus, not on fast-fashion products, but instead on the production of products with greater durability. Meanwhile 'Western' consumers need to turn away from fast fashion and realise that waste is bad for their economy and their society. It is argued further, that after a period of re-adjustment, substantial financial rewards await the national textile and clothing industries that undergo such a turn around.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.207-217
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• 1996

The purpose of this study were to find ethnic fashion's background in the late period of 20th century to compare the World ethnic with the Korean ethnic through content analysis and to identify Korean ethnic of the world fashion Eth-nic fashion started at orientalism by Poiret in the 1910s advancing to African ethnic & Hippy fe-ver in 1960s-70-s have emerged variously with ecology in 1980s-90s' fashion trend. The next the present research analyzed the world ethnic and the Korean ethnnic. The identified 517 fashion photograph from fashion magazines were categorized into two areas: the trend of ex-ternal growth and ethnic fashion's origins/designers wearable situation colors fabrics/pattern. The result were as follows :First eth-nic fashion's external growth of both the World ethnic and the Korean ethnic were incresed. Sec-ond in the ethnic fasions' origins/designers while the World ethnic were almost the same rate between Asian and European ethnic by many designers the Korean ethnic were limited to Asian ethnic Third in the ethnic fashion's wearable situation while the World ethnic were variously wearing the Korean ethnic were lim-ited to work of collection. Forth in the ethnic fashion's colors the Korean ethnic were limited to white color. Last in the ethnic fashions' fabrics/patterns If the Korean ethnic would become a world of ethnic would become a world of ethnic fashion it should be deviced practival abrics and modernized patterns.