• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.149-162
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• 2016

This study examines the costume artifacts discovered in the burial site of Choi Kyung Sun(1561~1622), which was moved from Gangwon in Gangrung Province. About 30 artifacts, including costumes, were recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave. The collection of men's coats discovered in the grave consisted of a Dallyeong (Official's robe), Jing-nyeong(Man's coat), Jungchi-mak(Man's coat), Cheolrik(Man's coat), Chang-ui(Man's coat), Gwang-su-ju-ui(Man's coat), and Do-po(Man's coat). Han-sam(Undershirts), Jeo-go-ri(Jacket), and trousers were also recovered, along with several items made of textiles, such as the cloth used to shroud and wrap the body. The costume artifacts recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave have several characteristics that distinguish them from other early 17th-century costume artifacts. Firstly, the body had a hairband made from horsehair. Secondly, the men's trousers were of the type worn before the Japanese Invasion(1592~1597). Thirdly, the style of the coats' sleeves, when compared with artifacts from other regions, was from an earlier era. Through these costume artifacts, it can be inferred that people who lived in the Gangwon Province, which was far away from Seoul, continuously wore outfits from before the Japanese Invasion, and trends spread slowly.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.93-103
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• 2001

This Study shows local characters, meaning, value and others (kind, function, material, shape, name) on Shroud through documents and fact-finding survey. In Shroud′s kind and function, Shroud of Kwangju Area is similar with one of Youngsan-river Area, while Sumjin-river Area and Coastal Area, each has its own character due to difference of Burial Culture. In Shroud′s Material, hemp cloth, white cotton cloth and calico, have been well-used in Kwangju and Youngsan-river Area, while silk has used in Sumjin-river and Coastal Area. Shroud′s color has followed Natural color. In Shroud′s shape, Male Jeoksam, Female Trousers, Um, Myokmok, Aksoo, Bib have their local characters. They are reformed in Kwangju Area and Youngsan-river Area. Jeoksam in Coastal Area, Female Trousers in Sumjin-river Area. Um in Coastal Area and Myokmok in Sumjin-river Area, have its unique character. In Shroud′s name, Shroud has widely been called "Dead Clothes", and called "Blind Clothes", "Munnyung Clothes" some areas. In Sumjin-river Area, Summer Jacket has been failed "Deungjigae", Dango called "Ddangjungwee". In Coastal Area, Myokmok and Aksoo have been called "Face Cover" and "Hands Cover", Shroud′s local characters have been caused by Next World, which has reflected local natural environment and cultural features. Next World is so abstract that it can not be expressed well, while Reality is clearly divided into dual spaces : Real World, Next World. Comprehension on Next World, helps harmonize recent values with Shroud meaning and prevents Shroud from standardization and transformation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.51-62
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the visual evaluation of image according to the style, hue, value, and chroma of the male clothing and the preference of image. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The first factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ hue ${\times}$ chroma ${\times}$ color of trousers), and the second factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ value ${\times}$ color of trousers). The styles of upper clothes were a soutien collar casual jacket and a polo shirt. The subjects were 509 female college students living in Seoul. Factor analysis showed five image categories of men's clothing: initiative, dignity, politeness, activity, and mildness. Yellow was evaluated as having the highest initiative and activity. Blue was shown to have lower mildness than red and yellow. The high saturated chroma was perceived to be higher initiative and activity than low chroma. The shirts were evaluated higher in activity and mildness than the casual jackets were. The beige pants were perceived to be higher in dignity and mildness than the dark blue pants. The high chroma jackets were perceived to be higher in both initiative and activity than the low chroma jackets. The navy blue pants with the upper clothes in low chroma blue were perceived to be higher in politeness than with the upper clothes in low chroma red or yellow. The low value clothes were perceived to be higher in both initiative and dignity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.90-103
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• 2008

This study aims to examine the current state of wearing working clothes for the workers who work in Electric Technology Division, Korea Railroad Corporation, to identify inconveniences and problems in relation to the working clothes, and based on the examination, to find a way to improve them, creating a design of summer working clothes that will have more advanced functionalities including activity adaptability and comfort. Survey was conducted through direct observation and interview for Electric Railway Power Team. A total of 352 copies were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of questionnaire, an experimental clothes, the functionality of which has improved in terms of design, material, and patterns, was created. The followings are the results of the study. Easy activity, design, and comfort are required as functions of working clothes. In design related questions, the survey shows high dissatisfaction in the color of existing working clothes, and preferred colors are dark blue and gray. With regard to the method of zipping up the front side, zippers are preferred. Although many pockets on the existing working clothes have high satisfaction, dissatisfaction to pocket format is high. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation and sweat absorption. It is shown that the areas frequently polluted include the lower part of pocket, the edges of sleeves and elbow areas on the jacket. The frequently polluted area of the trousers include knee areas, the edges of pants and buttocks. With regard to the areas where the workers felt discomfort when motion, discomfort is highly indicated with armpits and back on the jacket. Also discomfort is highly indicated with crotch, buttocks and knee areas on the trousers. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation, sweat absorption.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.105-117
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to help the understanding the characteristics in the costumes of men and women throughout the overall acceptance process of 'Naewaebub' in the late 'Chosun Dynasty' in which the notion of 'Naewae' is more prosperous than any other period in Korean history. Originally the distinction between man and woman was not intended to display the high and the low but to show the mutual respect according to each duty. As time goes on, that ideal became gradually changed to heighten the man and lower the women especially in 'Han' period of China. There was the ideal of distinction in the ancient times in Korea. Until 'Koryo Dinasty' the community has the system of blood-tied that put together maternal and paternal. 'Karye' was introduced in the late 'Koryo Dynasty' and accepted to the stereotype of morale in the 'Chosun Dynasty' and there seemed to be 'Samgang' and 'Oryun' at once. Many restrictions was imposed to behavior in women like rules of prohibition in attending the temple and concealment of woman's face and was recognized to rule of distinction between man and woman. Confucian life custom has been settled to Korean society throughout the late 16th century and 17th century and there were some appearances in the housing construction which divide the residences of man and woman. The characteristics in the costume from the avoidance of opposite sexes are clear in the structure of clothes changed from similar style to different style. The examples of those characteristics are as fellows. The costume in man was developed to advanced 'Pyoun-bokkwan' and 'Pyounbokpo' as social action of man prospered. Meanwhile the trousers which had been the same in the man and woman were separated to different trousers between man and woman. The costume life style of woman was changed to using the a hair whirl, hiding the face in the street and overlapping the innerwear under the skirt which was extension of woman's closed life style in late 'Chosun Dynasty'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.23-34
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to spread the public recognition for the style of Islamic dress has been ignorantly left and provide this as the basic data for Islamic fashion design. This treatise restricts the Islamic scope into the southeast Asia and confuted the study referring to Islam related books, treatise, domestic and foreign fashion magazines as well as newspaper articles, Internet and screen materials. The study results are as follows: Commonly Islam as a term of religious scope means complex cultural body based on Islam. 1. The Islamic social and cultural images were categorized as (1) conservative and sexual (2) simple, static, decorative and rhythmical (3) dark, violent, bright and amusing image. 2. Islamic nations' style of dress was characterized (1) surface decorative dress (2) practical outer garment (3) trousers style. 3. Both men and women basically put on trousers in children's stories and animations. In case of women, they wear skirts and according a social standing, tunic and caftan style jackets. As for men and women, Dey both wear turbans or chadors but in particular, wealthy classes put on a distinguishable turbans and chadors with splendid accessories. 4. The characteristics of Islamic fashion are lace decoration around a sleeve and the waist or blouse and harem pants with a elastic cord. In addition, they are splendid necklace and ring earings looking old, accessories with big pendants and dragging belts. These examples are shown in collections and streets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.826-832
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• 1998

In order to understand the influences of wearing clothings with different thermal insula-tions when men were exposed from $25^{\circ}C$ environment to 18$^{\circ}C$ environment, thermoregulatory responses were measured on 4 healthy female college students. Subjects rested wearing T-shirts, trousers, and socks called LC(total weight 541g) at 25$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5% R.H. and then exposed to the room conditioned in 18$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5$^{\circ}C$ R.H. with LC as it was(LC Type) or with T-shirts, trousers, socks, training wear upper garment, the training wear lower garment called HC (total weight 1368g)(HC Type) for 120 min. The results can be summarized as follows: 1) When subjects were exposed from $25^{\circ}C$ environment to 18$^{\circ}C$ environment, decrease of rectal temperature was significantly smaller in LC Type than in HC Type. 2)Increase of heat production and weight loss had no significant difference between two types of clothing. 3)Internal thermal conductance was higher in HC Type and external thermal conductance was higher in LC Type. Therefore total thermal conductance was higher in LC Type than in HC Type. 4)Decrease of skin temperature was greater in LC Type than in HC Type. 5)Subjects felt colder with LC Type than with HC Type, but did not feel differently in comfort sensation between two types of clothing. It was suggested that less decrease of rectal temperature in LC type inspite of more dry heat loss from body might be ascribed to a shift of blood from the shell area to the core area originating in the vasoconstriction and the lowered internal thermal conductance. In conclu-sion, the importance of the state of internal heat distribution in the homeostasis seemed to be reaffirmed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.5-23
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• 1994

This research has been made through analyzing clothes of human dresses and ornaments appeared in the Buddhist pictures which were drawn at the times of the koryo Dynasty. Clothes of the Korea Dynasty could be analyzed as below : First, as for Turban (Doogun), common people used Ogun, Doogun, Byunsangmo and Chaek. For clothes, the style of the era of the ear of the Three-Dynasty. That is , they wore long shirts with narrow sleeves and narrow trousers and skirts. However, around the years of 1320, shirts had no more belt but became to show a kind of ribbon which is called as Gorum , and length of shirts was a bit shortened between hip and waist lines. Second, as for officials clothes, a kind of Rhangkan was used through the Dynasty but after the years of 1300, Wonryukwan was also used. In the clothes, Bangshimkikryung was used and the royals wore full-dress attire which looks like a long gown. Under the full-dress , we can see two different which seems to be a kind of present under-water. Third, in public clothes, same type of Danryung. Holl, belt and shoes were used throughout the Korea Dynasty. In addition Line (Yeon) was remarkably used skirt was dressed under Danryung by middle of the Dynasty the skirt was replaced with trousers. For Bokdoo, Jeonkak bokdoo was mostly used at the beginning of the Dynasty , but in the end of the Dynaty a lowr-flap bokdoo was in the main current. Meanwhile , we can see that the Korea Dynasty had its own in dependence in the clothes although the Dynasty was much affected by the Chines Song Dynasty System. We can hardly find a Mogrian cloethes style in the Korea-Dynasty clothes. Fourth, in Queen's clothes, banbi and pyo were used and sleeves were decorated with birds feather throughout the Dynasty. Lastly , famer's clothes are quite similar to those of the Chinese Song and won Dynasties and a decorative line was used in official clothes. These facts make us have a presumption of our Dongii culture might be conveyed to the Chinese in the ancient times but much more research is needed to clarify.