Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.32
no.8
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pp.1255-1263
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2008
Study on Hwal-ot, woman's wedding robe of the Joseon Dynasty, has been limited to the Princess Bock-on's Hwal-ot and some folk remains. In this study, I tried to identify formative characteristics of Hwal-ot by studying embroidery design patterns in the royal Hwal-ot. On Mar 26, 2007, I inspected total of 15 pieces of embroidery design patterns for Hwal-ot held at the National Palace Museum of Korea. I classified them into three types of Hwal-ot by considering characteristics in embroidery design patterns as well as composition of embroidery design patterns held by the private. For the Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type I, there is a calligraphy called "Embroidery Design Pattern of Red Long Robe for leo-dong Palace", which is presumed to be the embroidery design pattern of Princess Deok-on, the third daughter of King Sunjo and a little sister to Princess Bock-on. Its patterns are very similar to that of Princess Bock-on's, with similar flower patterns and treasure patterns, as well as overall stripy structure. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type II maintains the same flower patterns and butterfly patterns as in the type I, but does not have the striped decorative. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type III has illustrative design with waves and mountain at the background and a pair of water birds flying around lotus. In particular, the type III design has a nine phoenix pattern at the front part of the robe, illustrating nine baby phoenixes (four in the left, five in the right) under a mother phoenix, which is closer to characteristics found in the Hwal-ot embroidery design patterns at the end of the Joseon dynasty.
While watching the movie, the audience shows various emotional reactions. Emotional reactions such as sadness and anger, joy and anger appear depending on the storyline of the film. This aspect can be seen through the audience's brain wave response. This study is to examine the relationship between the movie story development and the movie story development through brain wave measurement of the emotional reaction of the audience in situations and events occurring in the movie development. Four American films, which represent each genre and are well known to many people, were selected for the study. These are of the adventure genre, of the animation genre, of the action genre, and of the drama genre. In order to measure the emotional response of these movies, four cases were set centered on the PPG of EEG and analyzed as a time series graph pattern. It can be seen that the emotional response on the graph has a certain relationship with the story development. It is expected that this study will help in selecting a genre when making a movie in the future, especially when deciding how to compose and develop a story, and it will help to induce the emotions of the audience.
On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.
In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.
This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.
Widyanto, M.R.;Kusumoputro, B.;Nobuhara, H.;Kawamoto, K.;Yoshida, S.;Hirota, K.
Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Intelligent Systems Conference
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2003.09a
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pp.419-422
/
2003
To improve the recognition accuracy of a developed artificial odor discrimination system for three mixture fragrance recognition, Fuzzy Similarity based Self-Organized Network inspired by Immune Algorithm (F-SONIA) is proposed. Minimum, average, and maximum values of fragrance data acquisitions are used to form triangular fuzzy numbers. Then the fuzzy similarity treasure is used to define the relationship between fragrance inputs and connection strengths of hidden units. The fuzzy similarity is defined as the maximum value of the intersection region between triangular fuzzy set of input vectors and the connection strengths of hidden units. In experiments, performances of the proposed method is compared with the conventional Self-Organized Network inspired by Immune Algorithm (SONIA), and the Fuzzy Learning Vector Quantization (FLVQ). Experiments show that F-SONIA improves recognition accuracy of SONIA by 3-9%. Comparing to the previously developed artificial odor discrimination system that used FLVQ as pattern classifier, the recognition accuracy is increased by 14-25%.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.16
no.3
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pp.87-99
/
2014
This study aims to suggest a bag design focusing on the symbol of Bo patterns by developing a pattern-based textile which forms a Korean design with a modern sense of beauty as well as following the conventions of traditional cultures, a design which is based on the previous study on formative characteristics of Bo patterns. That is, seven pieces of motifs are considered as proper patterns that have a symbol suitable for the materials of bags, showing their individual beauty well. This includes Horomum (longevity and prosperity of desendants), Banjangmum (eternity and samsara), Jeonbomum (treasure and luck), Seobomum (innate good fortune), Bangseungmum (it means that things don't break in harmony with one another), Bomum (embroidered patches for royal family representing justice), and Seogakmum (blessed life). With these seven motifs, we developed textile patterns and printed them through DTP. Then, we created a fashion bag design with a high quality using durable canvas fabrics. Therefore, a fashion bag with the Bo patterns symbol has a propitious symbol designed with a propitious shape, not to mention its formative beauty. It is expected to have value as a fashion art item by being redesigned for benevolent patterns with a modern image.
Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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v.38
no.1
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pp.119-128
/
2010
The purpose of this study was to find a basic theory about Korean traditional planting pattern by analyzing a characteristic of planting and planted species in Haein, Tongdo and Songkwang Temples. The results are as follows. The planted species in three-treasure temples were 129 taxa; 57 families, 96 genera, 110 species, 12 varieties and 7 forma. The species related in Buddhism were Viburnum sargentii for. sterile, Hydrangea macrophylla for. otaksa and Musa basjoo. They are related in plant form and Buddhist ceremony. The results of forms were 34.1% in trees, 33.3% in shrubs, 3.9% in vine and 28.7% in herbage. The results of leaf fall were 56 taxa in broad-leaved deciduous trees, 27 taxa in broad-leaved evergreen trees and 14 taxa in needle-leaved evergreen trees. The native species were 32 taxa in Haein Temple, 27 taxa in Tongdo Temple and 44 taxa in Songkwang Temple. And the exotic species were 20 taxa, 28 taxa and 44 taxain the Haein, Tongdo and Songkwang Temples, respectively. In the results of analyzing the characteristics of planting, in the case of Haein Temple, Abies holophylla was linearly planted in Yiljumun, and Magnolia denudata was single planted in plant stairs of Haetalmun. In the case of plant stairs of Jeokmukdang, Cephalotaxus koreana was planted at regular intervals. In the case of Tongdo Temple, Celtis sinensis, Zelkova serrata and so forth were planted in Yiljumun, and Phyllostachys nigra was planted in form of screen planting in Youngsanjeon. The form of Hwanghwagak was a planting of symmetry in the center of a building, and the one of Daekwangmyyeongjeon was a mixed planting. The regular planting pattern was not shown in Yiljumun of Songkwang Temple. In the case of Dosungdang, Corunus officinalis was linearly planted in the west. In the case of Gwaneumjeon, Juniperus chinensis var. globosa and Camellia japonica were planted in symmetry. The old aged trees were planted in front of specimens planted in front of Daewoongbojeon.
The Bangudae Petroglyphs locate at Bangudong, Daegok-ri, Eonyang-eup, Ulju-gun, Ulsan and was designated as the No. 285 national treasure since 1995. After the construction of Sayeon-dam in 1965, there were many controversies of the rock weathering problems by the periodic immersion for approximately a few months. The isopleths of water content on the rock are drawn and the result shows relationships between the isopleths and distribution of joints or exfoliations. The distributions of water content rates in the Petroglyphs show the downward increasing pattern. This may suggest that the rates of water content are further influenced by the duration of immersion. Also, the upper part of the Petroglyphs with dense joints shows high rates of water content. If the water content rates in rocks increase, the water absorption rates increase too, because of the increasement of coefficient of permeability and porosity. The weathering damages of the Petroglyphs in which the pores are saturated by the periodic immersion are in the critical conditions.
One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.
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