• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.140-151
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• 1999

This research was designed to study the different kinds of ancient patterns applied to the Korean traditional suit and the symbolism associated with these patterns being used the prevalent Han-bok collections in markets. The shapes and changes in the use of the patterns can be summarized as follows. The published collections in the last 5 years were specifically concentrated between 1996 and 1997, proving that the development in Han-bok designs was most active during that time. But the trend decreased due to the effects of a depressed domestic economy. The plant pattern was the most utilized pattern for practical purposes. It looks beautiful and it is also easily manufactured with open space. Symmetrical and linear arrangements make customers feel stable at sight and these patterns tend to attract public gaze resulting in increased sales. There is a problem whether to continue using the existing patterns of the Han-bok without any correction or whether to copy the pattern of the kimono or the western suit. Copying other patterns definitely hurts the elegance of the Han-bok. It is time for us to not only keep our own traditions but also to study and develop new patterns that are distinct from the Chinese and Japanese patterns. The following are suggested as the basic materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.36-51
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• 2017

Taekwondo has been known as one of the most symbolic korean sports to publicize Taekwondo various groups have performed exhibitions. These exhibition performances have gained popularity domestically and globally due to the exhibitions' display of artistry and technical mastery. Performance wear has also received wide exposure and thus needs artistic symbolism and functional considerations. This study was done to develop Taekwondo exhibition performance wear for K-Tigers, one of the most active Taekwondo exhibition performing groups. Investigation of current Taekwondo exhibition performance wear and interviewing with K-Tigers members and staff were conducted before designing the uniforms. Interviews demonstrated 3 guidelines: First, the uniforms should not be too different from the traditional wear, but still look unique. Second, it should symbolize the Korean spirit and culture. Third, it should be casual and trendy enough to appeal to young people. Based on these guidelines, 3 styles were made: Dobok style, Hanbok style and Casual style. 5 final designs were selected among 75 sketches with the consensus of the K-Tigers members. This was followed by the 3-step correction process: wearing, check fitting, and correcting design and pattern to provide satisfaction to wearers, and give more detailed information to Taekwondo performance wear design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.151-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop high-quality naturally dyed leisurewear with images of traditional Korean clothing that keeps a psychologically comfortable and physically pleasant environment at home and in vacation spots. The root bark of elm trees, the atopic skin, is also known to be effective for the relief of rhinitis and atopic diseases as well as stress and insomnia. However, there is insufficient color in the bark for the dyeing of fashion products, so to compensate for the lack of color, for dyeing purposes it was combined with a composite extract called Rubia akane Nakai resulting in a relatively bright red color. Except for the light fastness, all the fastnesses were rated 4 to 5, showing excellent results. Through complex dyeing using elm bark and pods extract the author produced four high-quality vests, one-piece, a gown, and jeogori-pantsuits of silk materials with Korean images that are suitable wear for relaxing comfortably at home and during breaks and which provide a comfortable and physically pleasant experience. The vest was made with the formal style of Bae-ja and Dang-eu, the dress is made of Cheok-lik, and the gown is made of Wonsam. It will be meaningful at a time when the importance of rest is increasing due to the healing clothes worn by busy modern people.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.431-446
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze the gender role changes of Korean women reflected on their costumes during 20th century. To analyze the diachronic gender role changes, social environments(education, job, economy, family systems, mass-media) of 20 th century were inquired by 10 years and comparatively analyzed with 680 images of representative costumes each periods. The results are as followed. 1) $1900s{\sim}1910s$: The most representative women's gender role was a wise mother and good wife. Therefore the adopted western costume, a symbol of civilization, were represented women as a passive and sexual object of man. 2) $1920s{\sim}1930s$: 'Shin Yeosung(Modern Girl)' was the representative gender role of that time. They were the symbol of enlightenment and new education. Their costumes influenced to the changes of traditional Hanbok in functional side. 3) $1940s{\sim}1950s$: In World War II. a strong and stubborn women were wanted to support their family. They threw feminity and changed their costumes into an active and functional 'Mombbe'. 4) $1960s{\sim}1970s$: Women asserted Gender equality and resisted the traditional women's gender role. Mini Skirts and Unisex costumes were symbolic costumes reflecting the changes. 5) 1980s: The self confidence of women's gender role affected the androgynous look and body-conscious look in modern fashion. 6) $1990s{\sim}2000s$: Now, the dichotomy of gender role is not no longer effective way to understand the social changes and fashion trend rather than personal characteristics and lifestyle trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2016

This study examined and analyzed the women's jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market and Busan Jin Market. They study explored the items to look into the current state of the Jeogori patterns, as well as investigate the flat pattern jeogoris, including its source and aspects of change. Korean women's body figure has become more westernized, and the purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of this change on the traditional jeogoris. We hope to gather valuable data, which can be used to propose a new direction for designing hanbok in the future. The study methods are as follows: First, the types of jeogori patterns were examined. Second, the current state of jeogori patterns in the Seoul Gwangjang market and Jin market in Busan were analyzed to look into how the patterns have transitioned. And lastly, the reason for the origination of the flat pattern jeogori and the type of changes will be examined. Current study results show that two pattern types are being used: the flat composition jeogori and the flat pattern jeogori. Surveys show that more than 90 percent of the jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market are of the flat composition pattern variety, while more than 90 percent of jeogoris in the Busan Jin Market are of the flat pattern variety. In 1998, western-style dress designers in Busan introduced the flat pattern jeogoris, which were used to get rid of the wrinkles caused by the extra space, into the market after the financial crisis period in Korea, as a way to revitalize the market. This new pattern was popular among tea aficionados and traditional Korean musicians. It was exposed to the public via different mediums, such as TV programs, magazines, and brochures. Busan was the first to be exposed, and then it spread to Seoul. It also seems that the reduction of production cost caused the increase of the flat pattern jeogori.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.133-148
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• 1998

This study presents the aspects and changing process of the habiliment from the National Liberation up to now by analyzing the articles of costume found in$\ulcorner$Maeil Shinmun$\lrcorner$from Jan. 1. 1946 to Dec. 31. 1996. In the period of 1946~1959, the political and economic conditions through the National Liberation and Korean war deteriorated and the interest in costumes were weakened. But the economic recovery and social stability in the middle of the 50's made the lost interest in costumes increase. From 1960 to 1969, the high economic growth was achieved by“Five year plans for Economic Development”and the progress of mass media, transportation, communication and education brought western culture to our society. It spread rapidly and changed the way of life and the sence of value. These phenomenon led to a great transition on the Korean costume culture in the 60's In 1970~1979, the articless of costume made a change from the 60's, which focused on women's wear, and tuned to one including general costumes not only women's wear but also men's wear due to the women's social roles, the unisexmode and diverse costume. In 1980~1989, the growth of the consumption, the banning of the school uniform, Asian Games(1986) and Olympic games(1988) caused the high qualification, personalization and diversification in the fashion industry. Further more, the traditional-oriented trend with korean culture was emphasized. It pursued the modernization of the traditional Korean Costume, Hanbok, to introduce the unique Korean Beauty. From 1990 to 1996, in the era of international-ization and open door policy, the competition of nations became intense and the comprehention about environmental destruction highlingted the concerns on ecology. The recognition of environmental protection and recycling were reflected in the fashion. It prevailed that the pursuit of personalization,. diverse style, practicality and the fashion leader called generation appeared.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.108-121
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to seek the means of enlarging the application of Saek-dong to fashion products by surveying and analysing the recognition and image of Saek-dong in college students. As a research procedure, the bibliographical survey on the meaning and history of Saek-dong was preceded in this study, and the students were examined on the recognition and image of Saek-dong through the questionnaires. The female students were more acquiesced with the Saek-dong and Saek-dong clothing than the male students. And the students thought that the Saek-dong was our original and traditional clothing because it was worn by our ancestors from the earliest years. The word Saek-dong reminded them of red, yellow, blue, green, white and red-brown colors in order of appearance. The most familiar color-arrange to them was red+yellow+dark-brown+green+blue, and the blue, purple, green, red, white color was thought as manly Saek-dong colors and the yellow, red, dark-brown, pink, white was regarded as feminine Saek-dong colors. Saek-dong was primarily associated with the image of Saek-dong clothing and most of the students expressed their feeling about the Saek-dong as 'cute.' Most of the students responded that the practical Hanbok was best illustrated as the most applied clothing of Saek-dong and that the attempt to apply the color and pattern of Saek-dong to other modern artistic products was likely to damage the worth of traditional Saek-dong. When it comes to the matter of applying the design of Saek-dong to the fashion products, male students thought that it could be best applied to the shirts, while female students thought that the design of Saek-dong could best be applied to the personal ornaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.30-45
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• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.