• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.15-29
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• 2015

Apart from keeping the body pleasant and protecting it from the environment, the purpose of clothing is to express one's sensibility, sense of belonging, status, and aesthetic sense. In the past, hanbok was also used to express status and class with the colors and the types and according to the times, the forms of hanbok has changed. Nowadays, people choose and wear hanbok that suits their tastes or purposes and various types of hanbok that considered pros and cons of it are now disseminated. Given this reality, traditional shrouds that are worn by the dead should also be designed newly to fit the modern trend. This research aims to analyze how people's sensibility preferences change on the traditional shrouds and the modern shrouds that are designed to fit the current trend. To see the change, this research analyzes sensibility preferences by using Semantic Differential Method on 4 modern shrouds that are used in preceding research and 1 traditional shroud. The survey was answered by total of 130 ordinary people in groups of 26 people in 5 groups who reside in Seoul and Kyungkhi province. As the result of the analysis, firstly, people preferred "high quality", "elegant", and "Korean" sensibility words for modern shrouds 1, 2, 3, and 4. Secondly, on traditional shroud, "uncomfortable", "neutral-elegant", "neutral-Korean", and "neutral-quality" that is closer to low quality sensibility words are preferred. Thirdly, "modest" and "extravagant" did not show any statistically significant difference. I hope this research can provide basic data that can be used to understand and comprehend on people's sensibility preference about shroud designs.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.53-64
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• 2008

This study defined luxury hanbok, categorized its consumers according to their lifestyles, and examined the differences between the lifestyle groups in preferred images of luxury hanbok and consumer habits. The subjects of the study were 216 luxury hanbok consumers resident in Seoul. The various types of statistical analyses used in this study were frequency, factor analysis, Cronbach's a, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan-test and $X^2$-test. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The lifestyle of luxury hanbok consumers was classified broadly into 4 groups as: brand oriented, economic/appearance oriented, family oriented/socially oriented, self-driven/economic oriented. 2. The preferred images included these five factors: splendor, elegance, uniqueness, simplicity and tradition. The elegant image was aspired to by the brand oriented group. Meanwhile, the traditional image is sought after by both the brand oriented group and the economic/appearance oriented group. 3. The lifestyle groups differed significantly in the selection criterion such as material, brand and rarity. The brand oriented group placed greater importance on material, brand and rarity than other groups. 4. In addition, each group differed in their frequency of purchase, price range, and demographic characteristics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.265-270
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• 2001

Korea and Japan, neighboring two nations, have similar cultural background and complicated relations in terms of their culture and constitution. In this study, clothing microclimate and subjective sensation of Korean and Japanese subjects for Hanbok, traditional costumes of Korea, were assessed and investigated differences between them. The results of the study were as follows. For Hanbok, the temperature within clothing at the chest have significant correlations with the variables of race and elapsed time with p<0.001. At the thigh, correlations with elapsed time were significant (p<0.001). For the humidity within clothing at the chest of Hanbok, correlations with variables of race were significant (p<0.001). At the thigh, correlations with race and elapsed time were significant(p<0.001). For Hanbok, Korean group reported 'slightly warm' whereas Japanese group reported 'hot' in the thermal sensation. For the humid sensation, Korean group reported 'neutral' and Japanese group reported 'humid'. For the comfort sensation, Korean group reported 'slightly uncomfortable' and Japanese group reported 'uncomfortable'. Japanese group reported high relation with comfort sensation and humidity of microclimate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.69-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the New-Hanbok style in modern fashion, and to survey its formative characteristics and internal values from the perspective of vernacular design. Arguments can be summed up as follows. The study historically examines the changes in Hanbok and concludes that the social and cultural backgrounds and factors that caused the advent of the New Hanbok are (1) the change and expansion of the basic social, cultural, and popular perception toward the Korean image, (2) the rapid spread of a subculture centering on the younger generation, and (3) the voluntary and systematic activities of nonprofit clubs, communities and private organizations. This is the cycle of the spread of Hanbok, which shows the subcultural selection and development process of upward propagation. Furthermore, the public, in addition to holding fast to an independent attitude regarding their choices, also show that they tolerate diversity. As a perspective of analyzing the New Hanbok style, the study suggests the characteristics of the vernacular design perspective as (1) a spontaneous indigenous nature (2) living everydayness (3) and the subcultural-ness of the era. From such a perspective, the study examines the formative characteristics of the basic costume configuration of the New Hanbok style including jeogori, traditional Korean skirts, Cheollik one-pieces, and Trompe l'oeil one-pieces, and draws out the meanings contained in the New Hanbok style, which are (1) spontaneous indigenous nature and directivity toward tradition, (2) living everydayness and modernity, and (3) open subcultural-ness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.2 s.30
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• pp.146-154
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of man's Korean traditional trousers (Hanbok Baji). The IBM-PC/AT Computer was used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows. 1. Basic pattern of Hanbok Baji was selected. 2. Co-ordinate points were instituted for indicate of relative location of all necessary points in drafting. 3. A program for drafting was developed. 4. The pattern of Baji for man's Hanbok was automatically design by inputting individual body measurement (trouser length and hip girth). 5. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.31-40
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• 1999

This purpose of present study was to examine the figures and colors of hanbok textile. The data were collected from 489 pieces selling at hanbok shops in Taegu pusan and were analysed. Result of this study was as follows: 1) Figures As the hanbok figures tradition figures were used a great many among the figures. The next was natural geometric abstract figures. The reactionism trend was worthy of notice in figures and traditional design occupied most of them. 2) Color In the hue, YR, R, RP group were used concentratedly. Because 5,6,7 level were used a great many among the value value was represented lightly more than midium light. Because 2,3,4 level were used a great many among the chroma chroma was represented duller than midium chroma. Thus hanbok color was used mainly in a several party and korean were tendancy to like natural the sence of color.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.106-115
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• 2010

This study's purpose is to, first survey the traditional children clothing, clothing which doesn't get studied mostly. Second, to choose the factor that can modernize. Third, to design the present one-piece dress. Fourth, to gather an understanding about traditional children clothing and make a chance for children to wear the clothing that has a traditional factor. Traditional children clothes have a same shape with adults' clothes they use five primary color and use a pattern of a symbolic meaning which means healthy and long life. For ordinary wears there are Chimajogori and Bajijogori and for ceremonial dresses they wore Durumagi, Sagyusam which are Po and Dangui and headdress was added. The shape was considered by the children growth condition so the Gorum got longer. The dragon, cicadas, butterfly, phoenix and lots of flower pattern was used by the difference with the class. 5 one-piece design adapted Jogori, skirt, Dangui, Sagyusam, Magoja and used the traditional fabric by mixing the five primary color and the five secondary color was used to make traditional color. This study expects for a chance of children to wear traditional Hanbok or Hanbok-adapted clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.189-203
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• 2014

In this study, Creative motifs using face composition of Jogakbo and Knot Symbol were developed, and applied to traditional Baeja of Joseon Dynasty to develop design contents of traditional clothes. As for study method, 7 motifs of new formative image that integrates traditional beauty and contemporary sense were developed by applying Knot Symbols and face compositions of Jogakbo with the use of Adobe Illustrator CS6 and Adobe Photoshop CS6 vector graphic software. The motifs were designed in contemporary image in face compositions like rectangle pattern, triangle pattern, dual rectangle pattern, vertical and horizontal pattern, pinwheel pattern, gojunmun pattern and free pattern by involving various changes like repetition, rotation, reduction, expansion and decomposition and using the colors used in the Jogakbo. It is desired that through this study, traditional Baeja may develop to bear traditional and contemporary image so that our traditional clothes design may become global. Also it is anticipated that this study will contribute to development of culture products of Hanbok like Jeogori, pants and skirt that require change of design in the global era while maintaining traditional beauty to appeal to the emotions of world citizens.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.177-192
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.