• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.992-1000
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• 2012

This study develops a traditional green fabric pattern design through an apparel CAD system. The method used simulated stage costumes and evaluated the consumer satisfaction connected with a 3D fitting system. The results are as follows. Computerization of the pattern making process can provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making and marking for green fabrics. A Stage costumes design was developed; subsequently, the developed dress patterns are automatically depicted to the input of the body size of the consumer and marked using marking program. This results show that it has an effect on narrow and expensive green fabrics. Stage costumes design can make a simulation by a 3D Fitting system. The results of this study can provide higher consumer satisfaction through a survey of 30 consumers. Stage costumes should attract the sympathy of the spectators. The Acceptance of Andong region's traditional beauty is required. We found that a relationship of performance and clothes, physical functionality and beauty of costumes, possibility of commercialization, and the possible use of a 3D Fitting system use are evaluated. A continuous study of regional culture resources is required since there is a significant possibility for the long-term development of stage clothes.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 다양한 천연염색 재료로 염색한 한지직물을 활용하여 모자 두 개와 노트북 가방을 문화상품으로 개발·제작하였다. 그를 위하여 첫째, 우수한 내구성과 기능성을 가진 우리나라의 전통 한지로 만들어진 한지직물을 문화상품 개발을 위한 소재로 선택하고, 둘째, 그것을 천연염색 재료인 쪽으로 푸른 색, 떫은 감물로 갈색, 홍화에 의하여 붉은 색, 황벽으로 노란 색 그리고 자근으로 자주색으로 염색하였다. 셋째, 문화상품으로 개발하고자 하는 모자와 노트북 가방을 디자인하였다. 넷째, 디자인한 모자와 노트북 가방의 패턴을 제작하고, 그것에 따라 다양한 색으로 천연염색한 한지직물을 재단·봉제하여 완성한 두 개의 모자와 노트북 가방을 제시하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.7-16
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• 1996

The air-flow dyeing machine is a new type of dyeing machine. Which is an energy saving type to be able to dye the fabrics with the lowest liquor ratio and in shorter time. This machine is operated with an aerodynamic system rather than a hyd raulic system for traditional jet or overflow dyeing. An air-flow dyeing machine(Green-flow) by the use of aerodynamic technology was developed and compared with the Luft-roto machine made by Thies Company, Germany, in this study. Three samples were dyed with both machines under the same dyeing conditions and color fastness, dyeing levelness, drapability, and mechanical properties of these samples were compared. The results were as follows; Both machines have almost the same dyeability. The dyeability was good at liquor ratio of 1: 3.5 and the speed of 450yds/min. The order for drapability was Crepe de Chine > Cool Peach > Charmeuse. Except for the color fastness of sublimation being below class 4, most color fastness of samples dyed with Green-flow m/c were above class 4. The maximum speed was 510yds/min. for Crepe de Chine and the standard deviation of K/S value was lower for Charmeuse and Cool Peach when employed on the "Green-flow" machine and lower for Crepe de Chine when employed on the Luft-roto machine. Comparing with dyeing of the Green-flow machine and that of the Luft-roto machine, the RT of the Charmeuse was found to be higher with the Green-flow machine and thus the sample had an improved wrinkle recovery. LT and WT of Cool Peach were higher, and shear properties(G, 2HG, 2HGS) of Crepe de Chine were higher, both turning out as suitable for clothing. clothing.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.85-98
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• 1996

WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.353-367
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• 2019

These days, costumes of Korean creative dancing performances have been changed to be modernized and to be out of traditional regulation, as the representation of the Korean styles were replaced by other props and art devices. In this article, we have applied the emotions expressed in Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos (Korean traditional poems), to Korean creative dancing costumes in modern style. chose three typical sijos from her six pieces, titled "Green mountain is like what I've meant", "To Byeokgyesoo in Cheongsan-ri" and "Dongjibam ginaginbam". In brief, Jin-Yi Hwang expressed her "everlasting love and emptiness", "temptative conciliation" and "eager waiting" these three sijos, respectively. The character of Jin-Yi Hwang was shown in many TV soap operas and films, and the costumes were either much modernized, and not accurately based on the sijos she had written. Thus, we designed, made flat sketched, and fabricated three Korean creative dancing costumes from the three sijos, listed. We tried to highlight the aesthetic impression and the activeness of the dancing costumes, using both traditional and modern Korean fabrics. Since Korean dance costumes had not yet been inspired from Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos, we discussed the importance of the fabric items, as well as the visual, auditory, and tactile characteristics of the costumes and dancers to emphasize Jin-Yi Hwang's expressed emotions.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.548-556
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• 2021

본 연구는 부직포의 환경오염 문제를 해결하기 위하여 리그노셀룰로오스 섬유와 야자각 활성탄(CSA)을 이용한 미세먼지-저감 여과필터의 제조 가능성을 조사하였다. CSA의 경우, 휘발성 유기화합물(VOC)과 유해금속의 저감을 위한 여과필터 제조용 원료로서 적용 가능성을 확인하였으며, CSA의 VOC 저감효과는 목섬유보다 5배 이상으로 측정되었다. 돈모, 인모, 돈혈과 같은 단백질계 원료와 낙엽송 수피 열수 추출물을 이용하여 조제한 천연접착제를 적용하여 최소 200 kg/m³의 목표밀도와 함께 최대 40 wt%의 CSA로 제조된 섬유판은 취급이 가능한 강도를 보유한 것으로 나타났다. 그러나 이 조건에서 제조된 섬유판의 경우, 통기성이 낮아 이를 해결하기 위하여 통기구를 가진 섬유판의 제조가 요구되었다. 활성탄으로 사용한 CSA는 강도 및 성형성을 고려하여 입자의 크기는 2 mesh 이상으로 조절이 필요하였고, 표층에는 목섬유만 심층에는 목섬유와 활성탄으로 구성된 3층 섬유판으로 제조하는 방안이 최적조건으로 도출되었다. 한편 필터지(한지)는 우수한 미세먼지 여과능을 가진 것으로 조사되었으며, 결과적으로 타공 섬유판과 함께 한지로 구성된 여과필터 세트가 부직포로 생산되고 있는 기존 여과필터를 대신하여 실내외 공간에 존재하는 미세먼지외에 VOC와 유해금속 등의 저감장치용 여과필터로서 사용이 가능한 것으로 나타났다.