• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.992-1000
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• 2012

This study develops a traditional green fabric pattern design through an apparel CAD system. The method used simulated stage costumes and evaluated the consumer satisfaction connected with a 3D fitting system. The results are as follows. Computerization of the pattern making process can provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making and marking for green fabrics. A Stage costumes design was developed; subsequently, the developed dress patterns are automatically depicted to the input of the body size of the consumer and marked using marking program. This results show that it has an effect on narrow and expensive green fabrics. Stage costumes design can make a simulation by a 3D Fitting system. The results of this study can provide higher consumer satisfaction through a survey of 30 consumers. Stage costumes should attract the sympathy of the spectators. The Acceptance of Andong region's traditional beauty is required. We found that a relationship of performance and clothes, physical functionality and beauty of costumes, possibility of commercialization, and the possible use of a 3D Fitting system use are evaluated. A continuous study of regional culture resources is required since there is a significant possibility for the long-term development of stage clothes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

In this study, two hats and a laptop bag were developed and produced as cultural products by using Hanji-fabrics dyed with various natural dyeing materials. First of all, for the cultural product development, I selected Hanji-fabric which made with traditional Korean paper with excellent durability and functionality. Secondly, it was dyed blue with indigo, brown with green persimmon juice, red by safflower, yellow by amur cork and purple by gromwell root. Third, two hats and a laptop bag were designed. Fourth, according to the designs, patterns of two hats and a laptop bag were made. And then two hats and a laptop bag were finished by cutting and sewing Hanji-fabrics dyed in various colors.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.7-16
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• 1996

The air-flow dyeing machine is a new type of dyeing machine. Which is an energy saving type to be able to dye the fabrics with the lowest liquor ratio and in shorter time. This machine is operated with an aerodynamic system rather than a hyd raulic system for traditional jet or overflow dyeing. An air-flow dyeing machine(Green-flow) by the use of aerodynamic technology was developed and compared with the Luft-roto machine made by Thies Company, Germany, in this study. Three samples were dyed with both machines under the same dyeing conditions and color fastness, dyeing levelness, drapability, and mechanical properties of these samples were compared. The results were as follows; Both machines have almost the same dyeability. The dyeability was good at liquor ratio of 1: 3.5 and the speed of 450yds/min. The order for drapability was Crepe de Chine > Cool Peach > Charmeuse. Except for the color fastness of sublimation being below class 4, most color fastness of samples dyed with Green-flow m/c were above class 4. The maximum speed was 510yds/min. for Crepe de Chine and the standard deviation of K/S value was lower for Charmeuse and Cool Peach when employed on the "Green-flow" machine and lower for Crepe de Chine when employed on the Luft-roto machine. Comparing with dyeing of the Green-flow machine and that of the Luft-roto machine, the RT of the Charmeuse was found to be higher with the Green-flow machine and thus the sample had an improved wrinkle recovery. LT and WT of Cool Peach were higher, and shear properties(G, 2HG, 2HGS) of Crepe de Chine were higher, both turning out as suitable for clothing. clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.85-98
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• 1996

WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.353-367
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• 2019

These days, costumes of Korean creative dancing performances have been changed to be modernized and to be out of traditional regulation, as the representation of the Korean styles were replaced by other props and art devices. In this article, we have applied the emotions expressed in Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos (Korean traditional poems), to Korean creative dancing costumes in modern style. chose three typical sijos from her six pieces, titled "Green mountain is like what I've meant", "To Byeokgyesoo in Cheongsan-ri" and "Dongjibam ginaginbam". In brief, Jin-Yi Hwang expressed her "everlasting love and emptiness", "temptative conciliation" and "eager waiting" these three sijos, respectively. The character of Jin-Yi Hwang was shown in many TV soap operas and films, and the costumes were either much modernized, and not accurately based on the sijos she had written. Thus, we designed, made flat sketched, and fabricated three Korean creative dancing costumes from the three sijos, listed. We tried to highlight the aesthetic impression and the activeness of the dancing costumes, using both traditional and modern Korean fabrics. Since Korean dance costumes had not yet been inspired from Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos, we discussed the importance of the fabric items, as well as the visual, auditory, and tactile characteristics of the costumes and dancers to emphasize Jin-Yi Hwang's expressed emotions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.548-556
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• 2021

This study was conducted to investigate the applicability of lignocellulosic fiber and coconut shell activated carbon (CSA) for the production of a particulate matter (PM)-reducing air-filter as raw materials to solve the environmental problems of non-woven fabrics. CSA had a good potential to use as a raw material of air-filter for reducing volatile organic compounds as well as noxious metals, and reduction capability of the CSA was 5 times higher than that of wood fiber. Natural adhesives formulated with proteinaceous wastes mostly were applied successfully to fabricate air-filters with the shape of fiberboard. The air-filter fabricated with the minimum target density of 200 kg/m³ and the maximum CSA-content of 40 wt% in fiberboard had a good manageable strength. However, the fiberboard filters was required to make vent-holes for improving an air-permeability of the filters. Size of the CSA particles was adjusted to greater than 2 mesh with the consideration of strength and formability of the fiberboard. Three-layers fiberboard that only wood fiber and the mixture of wood fiber and CSA were formed in the surface and middle layers, respectively, was determined to the optimal condition for the production of air-filters. In addition, traditional Korean paper handmade from mulberry trees (TKP) showed a good PM-reducing property as an air-filter. It is concluded that air-filtering set composed of fiberboard with vent-holes and TKP instead of conventional air-filters made with non-woven fabrics can be used as a filter for reducing the concentrations of PM, VOC and noxious metals existed in indoor and outdoor spaces.